SPArKy_Dave

Flexible Drive Agencies, do throttle cables and such.
I believe they can also make custom ones to spec?

I have a copy of the Bosch date-code schedule, going back to the 70's

Thanks Dave👍
That tells me one thing, the spare starter most likely come from the EL/EF spare, not the EA...
How do you get the month's out of the number?
 

Grab the 3 digit stamped date code off the body of the starters,
and I can tell u when each one was made.

I can't be sure the XG (95 model) one was original to the car, but is definitely a Bosch one...
I have 1&1/2 spare 4.0L motors here, so the spare starter is currently in the XG (also Bosch, but different number)...
NAPA is where I got the brushes from...$23

This is the Xg starter that I gave a freshen up, was difficult to find brushes, but got some eventually...
I had a spare, so I haven't fitted this back in yet...
My Xf big starter has to be forced in because of extractor clearance, so the smaller ones are better in that respect😎

 

 

Even BA-BF starters fit x-series I believe?
 
But yes, if an x-series still had it's original date-code matching Bosch starter/alternator etc,
I'd always prefer rebuilding the original.
 
The old/fat body (non-gear reduction) Bosch starters have replaceable brushes,
and replaceable bronze bush bearings also.
 
 
 

Yeah mine is definitely cactus, the diaphragm is the culprit and still searching for a long term solution...
I do have a spare crossflow from a wrecked XE ute that had way too much rust and I could use that Weber if it comes to it...

yeah AU one fits, 
the good thing about them is they are lighter, and smaller(further from the heat of the exhaust) 
they don't seem to last 20yrs like the old ones though

Ill pull it off and clean up the solenoid contacts. the post in the solenoid is loose and shoots sparks out of it every time i start it so ill tighten that up. Id like to keep the original size starter because of that classic sound but if cant get this one working good will an au starter fit?

Get a multimeter and do an Ohms resistance test on the leads to know if they are actually any good!
I just restored a starter motor and it's not a 5 min job and the brushes will have to be replaced most likely, thats why they will wind over slowly until they just stop... It could be the solenoid, cleaning the electrical contacts will work for a while...
Smaller E-series starter motors will fit XF also...

Yeah, the vacuum valve itself is 2 stage, rather than being one of two external stages.
 
That inner pintle/jet is what I've always tested, by pushing it in with my finger,
I then cover the vacuum port with another finger and release the jet - to see if it holds in.

Oh boy...
I have now just read in my XF manual something I missed previously, which contradicts my perceived understanding of how the 2 stage idle switch functions...
 

 
And now after pulling the .70 jet out (looked non removable by eye) I now see a .55 jet that is pushed by spring pressure into the inside of the .70 jet, therefore overriding it until vacuum pulls it away allowing it to become a .70 fuel flow for the time determined by the "Thermo Temp Switch" which is suggested in the above info...
 

 

One tip I can give, is not to just pull spark plug leads off while engine is running, the spark still wants to go somewhere and what can happen is it will look for the easiest place to go which is jumping across the windings in the coil and making it fail prematurely...👍

So if I was to seal off the 2 stage switch, I assume I could still use that, but having no vacuum to operate it means that it won't switch between the initial .70 jet size down to the .55 size, therefore remaining at .70 constantly, would that be correct?

I found that and more...but the freight seemed a little excessive😬

 
 
Tried part number in weberperformance search, but nothing, they have plenty of jets but no holders...

The 2 stage idle switch has definitely failed as it won't hold any vacuum what so ever...

 
So after some reading it looks like I will need to get an idle jet holder to hold the jet that is in the failed switch, but I think I will step down to the suggested .60 instead...
 

I haven't found anyone in Australia yet that can supply one... overseas I can...
Is anyone is able to help me out with one of these, or suggest where I can get one here in Aus?
 
 
This is the part needed below...

So I have mostly disassembled the carb and found the diaphragms a bit hard compared to new I assume.
The power valve diaphragm is the worst and only one with the black surface disintegrating...

 

 

yep, as Thom said. 

The XF T5 cross member may even have the center hole already in it, i have seen them many times drilled for both. 
 
like this one (image from @fotz thread recently, on the left not circled)

what's in it now?
single rail 4 speed?  if so, is it unleaded or leaded (clutch cable on driver side is leaded)
 
if it's unleaded single rail, the clutch cable is same as the XF T5 otherwise you'll need one. 
 
cross member or modify the original if you can't find one (actually aftermarket are making them)  pic below of mine i modified..
 
gear stick and knob are different to the single rail also (sounds obvious, but i had to find one back in the day due to buying a gearbox only)

T5 crossflow bell housing is available aftermarket also in Alloy, but only as a leaded clutch from memory or hydraulic which makes it tight for exhaust on the cable side  with a CAT (I used a CRS one) or you can drill the single rail to suit (there's a thread here, but on your car you'd appreciate the correct parts used, so an XF T5 bell housing for a crossflow obviously)


 
 

I was suspect of this idle switch when I tried to twist the vacuum hose off and noticed that the plastic could turn in the metal body, which made me realise that it is probably no longer hermetically sealed and either not working at all or only partially...
 
I feel like I'm getting a better understanding of these carbs now and will have a go at giving it a new lease of life. I've owned my 89' van since 99' and it has only recently begun to run differently. For a while I was running E10 which made it run beautifully, but now I wouldn't recommend it (for those who don't know, E10 is terrible for diaphragms) which is most likely the reason for the demise of my diaphragms...
 
All in all, my van has been a very reliable daily for me over the years!
Go the Blue Oval!

ah i didn't see that electric solenoid, that's where the idle jet is then. 
the other is possibly for idling up the engine if it's about to stall (air con switched on at idle etc)
 
i haven't looked at one for many years,
but the first thing i'd do regardless is just take the diaphragm covers off and check them, split, stiff etc = issues.
(there's another on the inside of the top cover under the thing with the spring on it which i believe is a low vacuum enrichment part, as in going up a hill in a higher gear with low revs)
 
do it once do it right is great, @SPArKy_Dave has listed links to geniune diaphram kits which would no doubt last longer than the repro stuff available today.(at repco etc) 
 
 

'Engineered' aftermarket suspension arm failure - for an F-truck chassis in QLD -
https://www.facebook.com/SouthernChassisWorks/posts/934191238502847
 
@deankxf -
 

 

 

'Engineered' aftermarket suspension arm failure - for an F-truck chassis in QLD -
https://www.facebook.com/SouthernChassisWorks/posts/934191238502847
 
@deankxf -
 

 

 

'Engineered' aftermarket suspension arm failure - for an F-truck chassis in QLD -
https://www.facebook.com/SouthernChassisWorks/posts/934191238502847
 
@deankxf -