Free.51

New adaptor plate

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Ive taken that ^base off & now this metal gasket is underneath, should i take that off & throw it away & just put in the new cardboard gasket with the new adaptor plate & bolts that i have?

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Yeah i remembered after i posted that you made your own. I bought the bracket kit part no. 20-91 should be in the post soon.

Is this the phenolic base plate/spacer? & im guessing it needs to come off to fit the holley adaptor plate & carb.

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Thanks Greg, im not sure about the EGR will have to suss it out,
 
Ive already tried multi grips no good but ill now try the 2 nuts trick, thanks for your help much appreciated 

There's an exhaust passage in each head (number 3 and number 6 from memory) that leads to a port in the inlet manifold which bounces exhaust gases through it. That provides heat under the carby to prevent puddling of fuel in the manifold, even icing up in very cold conditions.
 
This is also used as a feed for the EGR (exhaust gas recirculation) valve that may have been removed from yours, and that metal gasket under that spacer is likely what seals off that EGR feed port, and if your crossover is still open (some plug it like I did, due to the carby getting too hot) then it will likely burn out the paper gasket. Your old spacer has an "ear" that sticks out over the little port (a hole about 10mm dia. on the drivers side of the carby) that seals it off.
 
So I would just keep that metal gasket there if it's already stuck good and sealed well.
 
Removing studs: if you have to reuse them, I would suggest locking 2 nuts together and unscrewing that way. If not reusing them, a big fkoff pair of vice grips or stillsons will be your best bet.
 
EDIT: just realised that you did have your EGR, so if nothing else has been disturbed, your crossover should still be open. So yes, keep the metal gasket.
 
One last thing: removal of your EGR won't give you any more performance, but economy may suffer slightly.
 
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Thanks Greg, yeah she's just a 302, what do you mean by exhaust crossover plugged? Also when you say launch the metal plate do you mean get rid of the metal gasket on the manifold or that base plate?.
 
Do i need to keep that metal gasket or just throw it & use the new cardboard one supplied?
 
Looks like ive hit a brick wall atm i cant get those studs out of the manifold so thats a pain

Linkage:

I never buy anything

But seriously, I just made the whole thing at work as a foreign order. The linkage just attaches to a 6mm bolt with nuts either side, the rose joint just slips into the end of it with another nut.

The assembly uses the 2 front manifold bolts to mount to. I gather that you could do a similar thing but come in from the back, using the rear 2 bolts.

Mine's a manual, so no need for all that kickdown nonsense

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Ill still give it a go though👍

Adapting the kickdown lever is a pain....... Gave up on mine (FMX) and just manually shift gears. It's more fun, too. !

That does look impressive😎

That does look impressive😎

Yeah I made a contraption that eliminated that and had the cable just go through 90 degrees, then across the engine (like on a 6-cylinder), converted pull to push and went into the front of the carby via a linkage and 2 small rose joints. The dyno guy was quite impressed, asked who made it and I said... Lol I did

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I think i remember last time i had a holley on a cleveland (14 yrs ago) it went around the back of the carb🤔 the accelerator cable that is.

I think i remember last time i had a holley on a cleveland (14 yrs ago) it went around the back of the carb🤔 the accelerator cable that is.

I think Chryslers are the ones that have trouble adapting kickdowns, etc but time will tell. I just hate how Aussie Fords need the acc cable to do a lap around the engine bay before getting to where they need to be.

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Thanks Jack, im not sure at the moment if i need to buy extras like the throttle bracket & a bracket for the auto kickdown rod but ill find after i put it on👍

Mmmmm.....Shiny.
Looking good Free!

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She has arrived, wont be putting it on today though, gotta do some stuff to the Fairlane in Geelong.

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She has arrived, wont be putting it on today though, gotta do some stuff to the Fairlane in Geelong.

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Thanks for the info Greg, im looking forward to installing it & seeing how it goes:)

This is what i bought, cant remember if it was manual or electric choke, ill check

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Thanks for the info Greg, im looking forward to installing it & seeing how it goes:)

Auto choke is piss-easy to hook up. Just tee off the + wire on the dizzy, feed it to the + terminal on the choke housing. It earths through the loop wire back onto itself. 
You adjust the amount of choke by loosening the 3x screws around the choke housing, and rotating left or right to put more or less load on the clock spring inside. There is a pointer and scale for reference on the housings.
 
Adjusting the choke does two things:
 
1. Shortens or lengthens the time that the choke (and idle-up) is on.
 
2. Adjusts the amount that the choke plate is closed at the start of the choke cycle (enrichment).
 
The clock spring inside is bi-metallic, so whenever there is power to it, there is a certain amount of time from closed to open depending on what angle you have adjusted the housing to.
 
I think here in Oz (unless it's frosty outside), you can get away with the minimal setting. The idle-up is a bit of a shit to adjust, I think you either need to pull the carby back off to adjust the screw that rides on the step-up cam, or get a ridiculously short screwdriver under there.
 
In my opinion, the idle-up function is more important than the choke flap itself.
 
I think it's very beneficial to have the choke hooked up. You won't need to have the idle mixture so rich to keep it alive when cold, you can actually make that nice and lean and crisp but still have it drive properly when cold.
 
Of course, this is just general info for all out there who baulk at this kind of stuff. I know yours is manual, but that is also worthwhile hooking up in my opinion, for the exact same reasons stated above.
 
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I'd look towards the Quickfuel range for better range of tuning options, I've got a QFT Slayer 600 Vac sec VSF on my xflow,
over the Holley has changeable air bleeds, rear jets & billet rear mettering plate, Vac sec progression is adjustable buy a screw, compared to likes of the 1850 of holley
I think Holley also shared Quickfuels features the Brawler range of carbs.