hucklburry

Umm I think that was me... My brother (XPT Crossy) gave me a set of 12 Scorpions that were meant for his cross-flow turbo build, but he's since moved that on for another project (he does that, lol).

He bought them unused from another former member on here but when I went to bolt them on, the bolts were M8 x 1.25 instead of 5/16” UNC. This had me quite puzzled until I looked up the part number and the only cross-reference was for the 3.8 (Canadian) Essex V6, the T-bird engine as you mentioned.

All I did was get some 5/16" capscrews and they bolted on perfectly, correct pedestal height, correct preload and only needed shimming because my heads were shaved.

The remaining 4 weren't so easily obtained or fitted. I had to order them as individual items from Summit, the only ones available this way were listed for "351C/400/BFF" and when I bolted them down, they had about 0.090" of slop from cup to pushrod. So the supplied pedestals were too long. I machined them in the lathe by about 2.3mm and they bolted down fine.

The weird thing about these individual rocker kits is that they each came with twin mounting channels, as one would perhaps use in a Windsor or FE 1.73 retrofit. So maybe they were simply the wrong ones for that part number? I dunno, but the last 4 rockers are on and working now and I ended up with some spare crap that I likely will never use.

Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

I remember reading something on here about Thunderbird V6 roller rockers once same as cleveland(& big block ford) but 12 in the kit instead of 16, might of been Scorpion 5/16" bolt on...
Crane kit is CR52745-12, I tried this kit on my xflow but had a few guide plates that didn't line up well. Ended up going Yella Terra/Street Terra kit bolted up easy as.

Good news Jim.  I would just change the pushrods, if your camera shows no pitting on the cam lobes. If you replace the lifters, just go through normal cam break in procedure.
Assembly lube, run at 1800-2500 for 20 mins, etc, etc,
 
Let us know how ya get on. 

I kept at it and #5 is all bouncy bouncy on the spring now.  She was stuck full up which is good I think in regards to being bent.
 
this engine was rebuilt and run about 3000 miles, in a 60s Ford econoline that the guy couldn't keep cool so he took it out.  In my old Bronco she runs cool just fine.  It sat in my garage for 3 years and longer in the garage of the guy I bought it from.  Clean, but I think valve stem moisture/rust is the issue?  I lubed the crank and spun it over with no coil before start up, but I wish I had pulled the valve covers and spun it by hand checking the valvetrain before installing also....
 
Since the valve freed up and bounces on the spring, I am going to go through all the lifters individually and clean and lube and put back in place, I'd like to keep them matched to the cam.  I have a nice milwaukee camera to inspect the cam.  I don't mind buying new lifters at all, just thinking keeping them matched is a good idea??
 
I guess I'll get 3 new rocker arms, so all 12 match, and the 2 that had pushrod issues are a little dinged up where the pushrod contacts them.  New is better than dressing them up.
 
lifters are cheap, I don't mind getting new ones, but I was thinking they are worn to the cam and keeping them? Its not a lot of miles, I dunno?I can see no wear indications on the one lifter I have pulled so far, looks new.   
 
I don't even mind buying roller rocker arms, but then I don't know what I have to change on the pushrods, so maybe keep it simple and stick with stock rocker arms.
 
thank you --Jim
 
 
 
 

Good advice Bear, I'll add that the valve might be stuck from rust due to moisture getting in somehow, in which case the guide could chop out if there is pitting on the valve stem. It could also have a bend in it, causing it to bind at certain lifts.

I have had a guide grab a valve on a fresh engine while on its maiden voyage (Mercedes bus) and it was a fault with whoever the reco'd of the head (guide too tight).

Was one of the odd rockers on the valve that was stuck? Is it possible that they were replaced for the same reason?

Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

Hi Jim,
 
I think the rockers are just different year/model, that's all.  (Same as 351 Cleveland I reckon) HT900 lifters are usually all thats required for a stock engine, but, my concern would be re-using the lifters. For the cost, I'd pull them all, keep them in order, and inspect carefully for damage. More concerned about the possible damage to the cam.  Maybe drop the oil filter and check inside for metal filings/glitter. 
 
If all looks OK, I would change the pushrods and lifters.  
 
Did you run the shitty old petrol/gas in it.?  Can cause varnish to build up on the valve stems, and hold valves open. 

UPDATE, I started this yesterday, used Kroil first, few hours later some PB Blaster as those are what I had on hand.  Dug through my cabinet last night, found some ATF, let is soak overnight, and this morning she moves.  Still needs some work, sticky, takes seconds to spring back up, but she moved from full up (compared measurements between each intake valve height)
 
So I either run it with new pushrods or figure out the rocker arm situation.
 
Thank you --Jim

Well I had stuck a US fuel pump from a 170ci, from a Bronco, it has a vacuum pump built in to help the vacuum wipers.  I didn't get the engine with a fuel pump in it I don't recall.
 
That didn't work.  I spent a day on it I suppose.  I had gotten a motorcraft fuel filter with 2 in, 1 out - and had the overflow on the carb come down to that filter, with the other coming from the tank, and one out to the pump.  I played with all that thinking I created a pressure point or caused it to not get prime.
 
Nope, swapped out to a regular fuel pump from like a 69 mustang with a 250 and she fired off nicely!  The arm on the stock Bronco one was angled higher, i think it was missing the lobe or barely engaging, not enough to pump.
 
I'm in the middle of installing the header and getting clearance.  Also I have a fan issue - since I raised the water pump like 2" going from the 170 to the 250, the stock 14" fan wont work, a derale aluminum 13" race fan will just barely hit the top radiator hose/inlet.
 
Once I get the header clearanced, I may raise the radiator 1/2". 
 
Also, in the US I can't find a Bosch starter BFX456 or 129.  At ALL.  The stock starter had issues hitting the flywheel. I picked up a powermaster 9603, ministarter that you can adjust where the solenoid is (clocking).  The stock ford mini starters over here are all the same, and the solenoid portion hits the block before I can start the top bolt.  The powermaster is working very well.
 
So she starts, then I pulled off the manifold for the header.  I may have a vacuum leak, I threw a gauge on it, and its erractic, but it has a cam - I wanted to dive into that after I got the header on and maybe adjusted the Weber some - or even after getting a fan on it so I can let it idle and not get hot??  I'm going in many directions at once right now, but she did has 40psi oil pressure at idle and sounds great.  I will post pics soon.  Overall, she sounds very healthy with the 38 on it.

The 38 DGMS showed up today, I will be installing over the weekend - it will orient with the bowl towards the firewall, meaning the only real obstruction is one of the idle jets is hard to get too.  It matches real well to my choke cable, and I installed a lokar shift cable, making that easy as well.  The other way the linkages are close to the valve cover and one vacuum port is really blocked - the jeepers say bowl to the firewall is better for inclines off road so this may be best for me.
 
I will plug one fuel inlet and use the other as is, not worried about that location, it would be nice if I could have it enter from the fender side, but that port is not open.  I have seen where someone drilled and tapped it to work, I am not ready to start on that right now.

Well I had stuck a US fuel pump from a 170ci, from a Bronco, it has a vacuum pump built in to help the vacuum wipers.  I didn't get the engine with a fuel pump in it I don't recall.
 
That didn't work.  I spent a day on it I suppose.  I had gotten a motorcraft fuel filter with 2 in, 1 out - and had the overflow on the carb come down to that filter, with the other coming from the tank, and one out to the pump.  I played with all that thinking I created a pressure point or caused it to not get prime.
 
Nope, swapped out to a regular fuel pump from like a 69 mustang with a 250 and she fired off nicely!  The arm on the stock Bronco one was angled higher, i think it was missing the lobe or barely engaging, not enough to pump.
 
I'm in the middle of installing the header and getting clearance.  Also I have a fan issue - since I raised the water pump like 2" going from the 170 to the 250, the stock 14" fan wont work, a derale aluminum 13" race fan will just barely hit the top radiator hose/inlet.
 
Once I get the header clearanced, I may raise the radiator 1/2". 
 
Also, in the US I can't find a Bosch starter BFX456 or 129.  At ALL.  The stock starter had issues hitting the flywheel. I picked up a powermaster 9603, ministarter that you can adjust where the solenoid is (clocking).  The stock ford mini starters over here are all the same, and the solenoid portion hits the block before I can start the top bolt.  The powermaster is working very well.
 
So she starts, then I pulled off the manifold for the header.  I may have a vacuum leak, I threw a gauge on it, and its erractic, but it has a cam - I wanted to dive into that after I got the header on and maybe adjusted the Weber some - or even after getting a fan on it so I can let it idle and not get hot??  I'm going in many directions at once right now, but she did has 40psi oil pressure at idle and sounds great.  I will post pics soon.  Overall, she sounds very healthy with the 38 on it.

Well I had stuck a US fuel pump from a 170ci, from a Bronco, it has a vacuum pump built in to help the vacuum wipers.  I didn't get the engine with a fuel pump in it I don't recall.
 
That didn't work.  I spent a day on it I suppose.  I had gotten a motorcraft fuel filter with 2 in, 1 out - and had the overflow on the carb come down to that filter, with the other coming from the tank, and one out to the pump.  I played with all that thinking I created a pressure point or caused it to not get prime.
 
Nope, swapped out to a regular fuel pump from like a 69 mustang with a 250 and she fired off nicely!  The arm on the stock Bronco one was angled higher, i think it was missing the lobe or barely engaging, not enough to pump.
 
I'm in the middle of installing the header and getting clearance.  Also I have a fan issue - since I raised the water pump like 2" going from the 170 to the 250, the stock 14" fan wont work, a derale aluminum 13" race fan will just barely hit the top radiator hose/inlet.
 
Once I get the header clearanced, I may raise the radiator 1/2". 
 
Also, in the US I can't find a Bosch starter BFX456 or 129.  At ALL.  The stock starter had issues hitting the flywheel. I picked up a powermaster 9603, ministarter that you can adjust where the solenoid is (clocking).  The stock ford mini starters over here are all the same, and the solenoid portion hits the block before I can start the top bolt.  The powermaster is working very well.
 
So she starts, then I pulled off the manifold for the header.  I may have a vacuum leak, I threw a gauge on it, and its erractic, but it has a cam - I wanted to dive into that after I got the header on and maybe adjusted the Weber some - or even after getting a fan on it so I can let it idle and not get hot??  I'm going in many directions at once right now, but she did has 40psi oil pressure at idle and sounds great.  I will post pics soon.  Overall, she sounds very healthy with the 38 on it.

Pre crossflow use the same cam bearings as xflow, its an extra hole for the pre xflow to oil the rockers as they have an extra oil gallery to supply oil to the head and rocker shaft, that gallery gets supplied from the top of the cam journals, whereas xflow use the lifters and pushrods to supply the rockers with oil, its no real biggie just interchangeable bearings
 
 

The 38 DGMS showed up today, I will be installing over the weekend - it will orient with the bowl towards the firewall, meaning the only real obstruction is one of the idle jets is hard to get too.  It matches real well to my choke cable, and I installed a lokar shift cable, making that easy as well.  The other way the linkages are close to the valve cover and one vacuum port is really blocked - the jeepers say bowl to the firewall is better for inclines off road so this may be best for me.
 
I will plug one fuel inlet and use the other as is, not worried about that location, it would be nice if I could have it enter from the fender side, but that port is not open.  I have seen where someone drilled and tapped it to work, I am not ready to start on that right now.

So I pulled the ADM, and yes I think with some work I can get the 2100 to fit, but its not right, and its too tall for my hood space.  So I am ordering a 38 today and see how it does off road I guess.  Mounted sideways?  I'll post pics of the Bronco in Colorado I hope, wish me luck. Thank you

Mount Kosciuszko, 
be less than half of 1% of Australians going to that mountain. but you can drive there.  i wouldn't use that as a guide. 
 
Cabramurra was the third-highest permanently inhabited town on the Australian continent, situated at 1,488 metres (4,882 ft) in the western Snowy Mountains of the Great Dividing Range, in the state of New South Wales.
...
Cabramurra, New South Wales. Cabramurra New South Wales  
even then, that's probably not a big town? (i haven't heard of it) here's a list i just googled of top 50 towns by elevation http://www.bonzle.com/c/a?a=f&sc=h&st=0&mo=91772837&cmd=sp 
ORANGE (town in NSW) at 869Meters (2851 ft) is still a small town,
 
People also ask How high above sea level is Sydney?  35.6 m (116ft)
Sydney's the most populated city of Australia, due to water/sea access 

We do have alpine regions and decent mountain ranges, but nothing like the Rockies or Switzerland.

Our skiing experience involves a lot of gum trees

The Great Dividing Range runs up the east coast and probably averages around 500m (1600ft) in height, with peaks in the Blue Mountains up around 1400m (5000ft) and 1600 in Barrington tops.

Dean I thought Mt Hotham was higher (around 1800m or 6000ft), or is that just a resort (not a town)?

Australia is old and worn down. There are no active fault lines or volcanoes within our continent so no new mountains have been made since forever.

I would love to see the Rockies and the Oregon Coast one day.

Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

Dean, I emailed weber redline here in the states asking about the 38 choice given the engine spec's.  We shall see what they say.
 
Gerg, here are some pics.  The 500 has one vacuum port on one side and thats it.  The 2100 has a port and some stuff and a choke linkage - I ordered the adapter and took the ADM off, so I can maybe mock something up and check clearance.
 
I have very little room to the hood.
 
I don't mind up grading the intake at some point, but I'd like to have this engine running first.  It might be perfect for this little bronco, the torque should be there already.  So I guess I'd just like a simple carb that fits easily??
 

Dean, I emailed weber redline here in the states asking about the 38 choice given the engine spec's.  We shall see what they say.
 
Gerg, here are some pics.  The 500 has one vacuum port on one side and thats it.  The 2100 has a port and some stuff and a choke linkage - I ordered the adapter and took the ADM off, so I can maybe mock something up and check clearance.
 
I have very little room to the hood.
 
I don't mind up grading the intake at some point, but I'd like to have this engine running first.  It might be perfect for this little bronco, the torque should be there already.  So I guess I'd just like a simple carb that fits easily??
 

I live near St. Louis, Missouri, and have a 76da block with an 82 alloy head, I am installing extractors, and it has a torquey crow cam that doesn't look like it will not rev real high.  It is going into a 66 Bronco that had a 170cu six, low end torque is better for spinning 33" tires etc.
 
It came to me with a 34 ADM, and its just flat not supported in the US.  In addition, I would have to wire in the choke and the sensors on the carb, and deal with the fuel return.  I'd prefer to keep a manual choke like it had originally.
 
I plan on driving it mostly street, to ball games and the hardware store, but am planning a trip here soon to Colorado and the rockies, with trail rides to 10,000ft and more.  And inclines.
 
My research says a 38 DGMS would be good, I think.  At least its supported over here, and bolts right in.  I guess a lot of jeepers run it, and they either do some mods to the float bowl, or turn the carb around with the float bowl near the firewall, to avoid stalling out on inclines. Both my throttle and choke are cable actuated, so linkage isn't a big concern.
 
The Autolite 2100 is very similar to the holley 500 - and I can get the adapter over here in the states.  But it looks like the 2100 could have some clearance issues with the valve cover? I am not sure.  I was wondering if someone could share a pic of their holey near the valve cover, as the 2 are very similar.
 
Or even better, has someone installed the 2100 and can give me some advice on installation?  I have both the older valve cover in place, and the newer aluminum one on the shelf.
 
The 2100 handles inclines very well, I know the carb very well, I'd like to run one on this engine.  I actually already ordered the adapter, but not sure if it will fit, or I should just go with the Weber 38 DGMS (manual choke).
 
I appreciate your help!  At some point when its running, I will share pics.

Its a 76DA block, with the later head - I think I have to pull the valve cover to check for a casting # and haven't checked the head.  I have a later model valve cover I was going to polish and put on it at some point -

I am under the impression I need this one you posted earlier like page 1: I would love a Ford part #???
 

Well the 65 Mustang 6cylinder clutch fork is 3" crease to end of forks.
The 66 Bronco with 170 six clutch fork is 4-1/2" crease to end of forks
 
I was told the Crossflow is 3-5/8" crease to end of forks
 
So I think this mustang one is too short.  The search continues, pic of the mustang on left, Bronco is black on the right.

It has an aluminum head, I think 1984, on it.  I also picked up an extractor for it, has the weber carb.

if its a 76da block its one of the first generation of crossflows with the iron head ,later crossflows had the alloy head from about 1980 onwards althou you should be able to interchange between alloy and iron heads i think.

It wasn't me.  This engine went to Texas, a guy rebuilt it there and put it in an old Econoline van and put like 200 miles on it.  The story i got was the econoline had a small radiator, and couldn't keep this engine cool, and the guy didn't want to hack in a larger radiator, so he sold it, to a guy in West Virginia that knows them pretty well.  It sat for say a year, and he changed plans, so I bought it in the fall of 2016.  I've had the pan off, it looks great inside, so i do think the engine is good to go, we shall see soon! Its been sitting here a bit, shame on me.