blu xe

I'd service it for a start too. Au has the adjustable S5 solenoid so you can increase the line pressure. Go a quarter turn on that while you're there.
 
I have exactly the same problem on mine and I'll adjust mine when I get around to it.

Mmmmmm my ute seems OK and shifts as soon as you shift the lever buuuuuuuut stand on it and D and it takes about 7 lite years before it rev''s up enough and selects it's chossen gear which by then your the loudest thing around and you have gotten out of it LOL

Oh how I love reading these threads. Where to start? $5000 paintjobs are long gone and if you find someone that will do one at that price I guarantee that you will be unhappy with the result. If your not when you pick it up you will be when it all starts playing up in 6 months time cause ol mate cut corners and used shit products to try and make a buck out of his tight ass quote. I know your saying that its only going to be a daily but IMO your prep and products need to be of a decent quality and even more meticulous  for this reason. Its being exposed to the elements day in day out. Shit prep and product will f**k out in super quick time when exposed to the elements as opposed to a show car that barely sees the light of day humidity and moisture. Paint and panel rates are pretty cheap really compared to lots of the other trades. Some might argue that 15000 dollars is expensive but even at a conservative $50 dollars an hour its still only 300 hrs work. 7.5 weeks with a 40hr week .Charge it out at $80 and that's only 190ish hrs and that comes in at 4.5 working weeks. Having a car blasted and primed PROPERLY, not by a monkey who will f**k your panels and cause even more damage will cost at least $1800 at a minimum. The shop has overheads and staff to pay out of this too. So really I cant see how a panel shop is any more of a rort than any other business trying to survive. Fuck me I got charged 15000 to have a 7m X 5 M patio extension done and the builder was done in 5 days.
 
I've found that on a good clean rust free car that comes in stripped of everything and sand blasted with no to very minimal rust repairs and not banged up everywhere you need at least 350 - 400 hours to get a job that is done to an exceptional standard. READ covered by a paint lifetime warranty. Gaps that are nice with panels that fit properly and probably better than factory. Painted in and out and the undercarriage finished in a nice durable epoxy texture coat. These cars are the standard we stick to at work. We haven't had any customers that have been unhappy with the end result or the price they paid at the end of the job and many have paid ALOT more than 15000 to have paint and panel only done. That isn't put back together either. That's a rolling shell with hanging panels back on and gapped. I've got a mate who had his mustang painted by us and the paint on its 7+ years old and still looks as good as the day it rolled out of our shop. Its not what we call a show car but has won awards at the local shows it been entered in,  as has any of our other quality jobs. Painting isn't hard but the man hours leading up to the shiny stuff going on is where your dollars will go. Fact of the matter is its a labour intensive trade nothing more nothing less. The only way to reduce costs is in the labour. Which means corner cutting.
 
You have to be upfront and realistic with whoever you get to do your car and everyone needs to be on the same page before a hammer and dolly go anywhere near the car. Give them a realistic budget of what your prepared to spend straight up and they will tell you if they can do anything for that price and what standard of work they will deliver at that price! Have a weekly payment plan in place. Your panel shop will love it and you will too. Call in weekly to see where the hours are going and pay as they go. If your short one week they don't work on it simple as that. If it goes to shit and they fuck you over then you've only paid so much and you can pull the car at a moments notice  cause its all paid up and its not to late that you need to redo everything again. We keep in regular contact and encourage the owner to come in when ever they like to see how its travelling. Also remember a good smash shop doesn't always make for a good resto shop. If they don't do regular resto work and aren't keen on doing it walk away.
If they can't show  you any examples of their work or put you in contact with some of their happy customers to back their claims then they aren't worth dealing with. Again walk away.
 
Not digging at anyone but just trying to explain there is much more to a good paint job than meets the eye.

Oh how I love reading these threads. Where to start? $5000 paintjobs are long gone and if you find someone that will do one at that price I guarantee that you will be unhappy with the result. If your not when you pick it up you will be when it all starts playing up in 6 months time cause ol mate cut corners and used shit products to try and make a buck out of his tight ass quote. I know your saying that its only going to be a daily but IMO your prep and products need to be of a decent quality and even more meticulous  for this reason. Its being exposed to the elements day in day out. Shit prep and product will f**k out in super quick time when exposed to the elements as opposed to a show car that barely sees the light of day humidity and moisture. Paint and panel rates are pretty cheap really compared to lots of the other trades. Some might argue that 15000 dollars is expensive but even at a conservative $50 dollars an hour its still only 300 hrs work. 7.5 weeks with a 40hr week .Charge it out at $80 and that's only 190ish hrs and that comes in at 4.5 working weeks. Having a car blasted and primed PROPERLY, not by a monkey who will f**k your panels and cause even more damage will cost at least $1800 at a minimum. The shop has overheads and staff to pay out of this too. So really I cant see how a panel shop is any more of a rort than any other business trying to survive. Fuck me I got charged 15000 to have a 7m X 5 M patio extension done and the builder was done in 5 days.
 
I've found that on a good clean rust free car that comes in stripped of everything and sand blasted with no to very minimal rust repairs and not banged up everywhere you need at least 350 - 400 hours to get a job that is done to an exceptional standard. READ covered by a paint lifetime warranty. Gaps that are nice with panels that fit properly and probably better than factory. Painted in and out and the undercarriage finished in a nice durable epoxy texture coat. These cars are the standard we stick to at work. We haven't had any customers that have been unhappy with the end result or the price they paid at the end of the job and many have paid ALOT more than 15000 to have paint and panel only done. That isn't put back together either. That's a rolling shell with hanging panels back on and gapped. I've got a mate who had his mustang painted by us and the paint on its 7+ years old and still looks as good as the day it rolled out of our shop. Its not what we call a show car but has won awards at the local shows it been entered in,  as has any of our other quality jobs. Painting isn't hard but the man hours leading up to the shiny stuff going on is where your dollars will go. Fact of the matter is its a labour intensive trade nothing more nothing less. The only way to reduce costs is in the labour. Which means corner cutting.
 
You have to be upfront and realistic with whoever you get to do your car and everyone needs to be on the same page before a hammer and dolly go anywhere near the car. Give them a realistic budget of what your prepared to spend straight up and they will tell you if they can do anything for that price and what standard of work they will deliver at that price! Have a weekly payment plan in place. Your panel shop will love it and you will too. Call in weekly to see where the hours are going and pay as they go. If your short one week they don't work on it simple as that. If it goes to shit and they fuck you over then you've only paid so much and you can pull the car at a moments notice  cause its all paid up and its not to late that you need to redo everything again. We keep in regular contact and encourage the owner to come in when ever they like to see how its travelling. Also remember a good smash shop doesn't always make for a good resto shop. If they don't do regular resto work and aren't keen on doing it walk away.
If they can't show  you any examples of their work or put you in contact with some of their happy customers to back their claims then they aren't worth dealing with. Again walk away.
 
Not digging at anyone but just trying to explain there is much more to a good paint job than meets the eye.

Oh how I love reading these threads. Where to start? $5000 paintjobs are long gone and if you find someone that will do one at that price I guarantee that you will be unhappy with the result. If your not when you pick it up you will be when it all starts playing up in 6 months time cause ol mate cut corners and used shit products to try and make a buck out of his tight ass quote. I know your saying that its only going to be a daily but IMO your prep and products need to be of a decent quality and even more meticulous  for this reason. Its being exposed to the elements day in day out. Shit prep and product will f**k out in super quick time when exposed to the elements as opposed to a show car that barely sees the light of day humidity and moisture. Paint and panel rates are pretty cheap really compared to lots of the other trades. Some might argue that 15000 dollars is expensive but even at a conservative $50 dollars an hour its still only 300 hrs work. 7.5 weeks with a 40hr week .Charge it out at $80 and that's only 190ish hrs and that comes in at 4.5 working weeks. Having a car blasted and primed PROPERLY, not by a monkey who will f**k your panels and cause even more damage will cost at least $1800 at a minimum. The shop has overheads and staff to pay out of this too. So really I cant see how a panel shop is any more of a rort than any other business trying to survive. Fuck me I got charged 15000 to have a 7m X 5 M patio extension done and the builder was done in 5 days.
 
I've found that on a good clean rust free car that comes in stripped of everything and sand blasted with no to very minimal rust repairs and not banged up everywhere you need at least 350 - 400 hours to get a job that is done to an exceptional standard. READ covered by a paint lifetime warranty. Gaps that are nice with panels that fit properly and probably better than factory. Painted in and out and the undercarriage finished in a nice durable epoxy texture coat. These cars are the standard we stick to at work. We haven't had any customers that have been unhappy with the end result or the price they paid at the end of the job and many have paid ALOT more than 15000 to have paint and panel only done. That isn't put back together either. That's a rolling shell with hanging panels back on and gapped. I've got a mate who had his mustang painted by us and the paint on its 7+ years old and still looks as good as the day it rolled out of our shop. Its not what we call a show car but has won awards at the local shows it been entered in,  as has any of our other quality jobs. Painting isn't hard but the man hours leading up to the shiny stuff going on is where your dollars will go. Fact of the matter is its a labour intensive trade nothing more nothing less. The only way to reduce costs is in the labour. Which means corner cutting.
 
You have to be upfront and realistic with whoever you get to do your car and everyone needs to be on the same page before a hammer and dolly go anywhere near the car. Give them a realistic budget of what your prepared to spend straight up and they will tell you if they can do anything for that price and what standard of work they will deliver at that price! Have a weekly payment plan in place. Your panel shop will love it and you will too. Call in weekly to see where the hours are going and pay as they go. If your short one week they don't work on it simple as that. If it goes to shit and they fuck you over then you've only paid so much and you can pull the car at a moments notice  cause its all paid up and its not to late that you need to redo everything again. We keep in regular contact and encourage the owner to come in when ever they like to see how its travelling. Also remember a good smash shop doesn't always make for a good resto shop. If they don't do regular resto work and aren't keen on doing it walk away.
If they can't show  you any examples of their work or put you in contact with some of their happy customers to back their claims then they aren't worth dealing with. Again walk away.
 
Not digging at anyone but just trying to explain there is much more to a good paint job than meets the eye.

Oh how I love reading these threads. Where to start? $5000 paintjobs are long gone and if you find someone that will do one at that price I guarantee that you will be unhappy with the result. If your not when you pick it up you will be when it all starts playing up in 6 months time cause ol mate cut corners and used shit products to try and make a buck out of his tight ass quote. I know your saying that its only going to be a daily but IMO your prep and products need to be of a decent quality and even more meticulous  for this reason. Its being exposed to the elements day in day out. Shit prep and product will f**k out in super quick time when exposed to the elements as opposed to a show car that barely sees the light of day humidity and moisture. Paint and panel rates are pretty cheap really compared to lots of the other trades. Some might argue that 15000 dollars is expensive but even at a conservative $50 dollars an hour its still only 300 hrs work. 7.5 weeks with a 40hr week .Charge it out at $80 and that's only 190ish hrs and that comes in at 4.5 working weeks. Having a car blasted and primed PROPERLY, not by a monkey who will f**k your panels and cause even more damage will cost at least $1800 at a minimum. The shop has overheads and staff to pay out of this too. So really I cant see how a panel shop is any more of a rort than any other business trying to survive. Fuck me I got charged 15000 to have a 7m X 5 M patio extension done and the builder was done in 5 days.
 
I've found that on a good clean rust free car that comes in stripped of everything and sand blasted with no to very minimal rust repairs and not banged up everywhere you need at least 350 - 400 hours to get a job that is done to an exceptional standard. READ covered by a paint lifetime warranty. Gaps that are nice with panels that fit properly and probably better than factory. Painted in and out and the undercarriage finished in a nice durable epoxy texture coat. These cars are the standard we stick to at work. We haven't had any customers that have been unhappy with the end result or the price they paid at the end of the job and many have paid ALOT more than 15000 to have paint and panel only done. That isn't put back together either. That's a rolling shell with hanging panels back on and gapped. I've got a mate who had his mustang painted by us and the paint on its 7+ years old and still looks as good as the day it rolled out of our shop. Its not what we call a show car but has won awards at the local shows it been entered in,  as has any of our other quality jobs. Painting isn't hard but the man hours leading up to the shiny stuff going on is where your dollars will go. Fact of the matter is its a labour intensive trade nothing more nothing less. The only way to reduce costs is in the labour. Which means corner cutting.
 
You have to be upfront and realistic with whoever you get to do your car and everyone needs to be on the same page before a hammer and dolly go anywhere near the car. Give them a realistic budget of what your prepared to spend straight up and they will tell you if they can do anything for that price and what standard of work they will deliver at that price! Have a weekly payment plan in place. Your panel shop will love it and you will too. Call in weekly to see where the hours are going and pay as they go. If your short one week they don't work on it simple as that. If it goes to shit and they fuck you over then you've only paid so much and you can pull the car at a moments notice  cause its all paid up and its not to late that you need to redo everything again. We keep in regular contact and encourage the owner to come in when ever they like to see how its travelling. Also remember a good smash shop doesn't always make for a good resto shop. If they don't do regular resto work and aren't keen on doing it walk away.
If they can't show  you any examples of their work or put you in contact with some of their happy customers to back their claims then they aren't worth dealing with. Again walk away.
 
Not digging at anyone but just trying to explain there is much more to a good paint job than meets the eye.

Oh how I love reading these threads. Where to start? $5000 paintjobs are long gone and if you find someone that will do one at that price I guarantee that you will be unhappy with the result. If your not when you pick it up you will be when it all starts playing up in 6 months time cause ol mate cut corners and used shit products to try and make a buck out of his tight ass quote. I know your saying that its only going to be a daily but IMO your prep and products need to be of a decent quality and even more meticulous  for this reason. Its being exposed to the elements day in day out. Shit prep and product will f**k out in super quick time when exposed to the elements as opposed to a show car that barely sees the light of day humidity and moisture. Paint and panel rates are pretty cheap really compared to lots of the other trades. Some might argue that 15000 dollars is expensive but even at a conservative $50 dollars an hour its still only 300 hrs work. 7.5 weeks with a 40hr week .Charge it out at $80 and that's only 190ish hrs and that comes in at 4.5 working weeks. Having a car blasted and primed PROPERLY, not by a monkey who will f**k your panels and cause even more damage will cost at least $1800 at a minimum. The shop has overheads and staff to pay out of this too. So really I cant see how a panel shop is any more of a rort than any other business trying to survive. Fuck me I got charged 15000 to have a 7m X 5 M patio extension done and the builder was done in 5 days.
 
I've found that on a good clean rust free car that comes in stripped of everything and sand blasted with no to very minimal rust repairs and not banged up everywhere you need at least 350 - 400 hours to get a job that is done to an exceptional standard. READ covered by a paint lifetime warranty. Gaps that are nice with panels that fit properly and probably better than factory. Painted in and out and the undercarriage finished in a nice durable epoxy texture coat. These cars are the standard we stick to at work. We haven't had any customers that have been unhappy with the end result or the price they paid at the end of the job and many have paid ALOT more than 15000 to have paint and panel only done. That isn't put back together either. That's a rolling shell with hanging panels back on and gapped. I've got a mate who had his mustang painted by us and the paint on its 7+ years old and still looks as good as the day it rolled out of our shop. Its not what we call a show car but has won awards at the local shows it been entered in,  as has any of our other quality jobs. Painting isn't hard but the man hours leading up to the shiny stuff going on is where your dollars will go. Fact of the matter is its a labour intensive trade nothing more nothing less. The only way to reduce costs is in the labour. Which means corner cutting.
 
You have to be upfront and realistic with whoever you get to do your car and everyone needs to be on the same page before a hammer and dolly go anywhere near the car. Give them a realistic budget of what your prepared to spend straight up and they will tell you if they can do anything for that price and what standard of work they will deliver at that price! Have a weekly payment plan in place. Your panel shop will love it and you will too. Call in weekly to see where the hours are going and pay as they go. If your short one week they don't work on it simple as that. If it goes to shit and they fuck you over then you've only paid so much and you can pull the car at a moments notice  cause its all paid up and its not to late that you need to redo everything again. We keep in regular contact and encourage the owner to come in when ever they like to see how its travelling. Also remember a good smash shop doesn't always make for a good resto shop. If they don't do regular resto work and aren't keen on doing it walk away.
If they can't show  you any examples of their work or put you in contact with some of their happy customers to back their claims then they aren't worth dealing with. Again walk away.
 
Not digging at anyone but just trying to explain there is much more to a good paint job than meets the eye.

Oh how I love reading these threads. Where to start? $5000 paintjobs are long gone and if you find someone that will do one at that price I guarantee that you will be unhappy with the result. If your not when you pick it up you will be when it all starts playing up in 6 months time cause ol mate cut corners and used shit products to try and make a buck out of his tight ass quote. I know your saying that its only going to be a daily but IMO your prep and products need to be of a decent quality and even more meticulous  for this reason. Its being exposed to the elements day in day out. Shit prep and product will f**k out in super quick time when exposed to the elements as opposed to a show car that barely sees the light of day humidity and moisture. Paint and panel rates are pretty cheap really compared to lots of the other trades. Some might argue that 15000 dollars is expensive but even at a conservative $50 dollars an hour its still only 300 hrs work. 7.5 weeks with a 40hr week .Charge it out at $80 and that's only 190ish hrs and that comes in at 4.5 working weeks. Having a car blasted and primed PROPERLY, not by a monkey who will f**k your panels and cause even more damage will cost at least $1800 at a minimum. The shop has overheads and staff to pay out of this too. So really I cant see how a panel shop is any more of a rort than any other business trying to survive. Fuck me I got charged 15000 to have a 7m X 5 M patio extension done and the builder was done in 5 days.
 
I've found that on a good clean rust free car that comes in stripped of everything and sand blasted with no to very minimal rust repairs and not banged up everywhere you need at least 350 - 400 hours to get a job that is done to an exceptional standard. READ covered by a paint lifetime warranty. Gaps that are nice with panels that fit properly and probably better than factory. Painted in and out and the undercarriage finished in a nice durable epoxy texture coat. These cars are the standard we stick to at work. We haven't had any customers that have been unhappy with the end result or the price they paid at the end of the job and many have paid ALOT more than 15000 to have paint and panel only done. That isn't put back together either. That's a rolling shell with hanging panels back on and gapped. I've got a mate who had his mustang painted by us and the paint on its 7+ years old and still looks as good as the day it rolled out of our shop. Its not what we call a show car but has won awards at the local shows it been entered in,  as has any of our other quality jobs. Painting isn't hard but the man hours leading up to the shiny stuff going on is where your dollars will go. Fact of the matter is its a labour intensive trade nothing more nothing less. The only way to reduce costs is in the labour. Which means corner cutting.
 
You have to be upfront and realistic with whoever you get to do your car and everyone needs to be on the same page before a hammer and dolly go anywhere near the car. Give them a realistic budget of what your prepared to spend straight up and they will tell you if they can do anything for that price and what standard of work they will deliver at that price! Have a weekly payment plan in place. Your panel shop will love it and you will too. Call in weekly to see where the hours are going and pay as they go. If your short one week they don't work on it simple as that. If it goes to shit and they fuck you over then you've only paid so much and you can pull the car at a moments notice  cause its all paid up and its not to late that you need to redo everything again. We keep in regular contact and encourage the owner to come in when ever they like to see how its travelling. Also remember a good smash shop doesn't always make for a good resto shop. If they don't do regular resto work and aren't keen on doing it walk away.
If they can't show  you any examples of their work or put you in contact with some of their happy customers to back their claims then they aren't worth dealing with. Again walk away.
 
Not digging at anyone but just trying to explain there is much more to a good paint job than meets the eye.

You got a spare 20k have you?
Dont email these people, that says "your not fair dinkum"
Take a day, drive to half a dozen smash repairs across sydney and its west
introduce yourself and say "whats it gonna cost for a full bare metal respray"
 
Tell em what you want, what colour, what work you want done and watch the dollar signs 
roll. Some places might say 'they not interested' but some might say 
'yeah mate we could do it'.
 
How much work are you gonna put in to it?
Do you want them to 'remove and replace' the parts?
You want the engine bay and door jams painted?
 
Better make a list now and tell em what you want.
so everybody is on the same page when you get
your quotes in.
 
Alot of us, including me would love to know how much
its gonna cost you. 

For the price of a new front screen installed there's no way I'd pull and refit an old one in a freshly painted car. A new windscreen looks a million times better and lifts the whole appearance of the car.

For the price of a new front screen installed there's no way I'd pull and refit an old one in a freshly painted car. A new windscreen looks a million times better and lifts the whole appearance of the car.

I may be proven wrong but I'm not a believer of paint protection. I think regularly washing and waxing will do the same thing without the bullshit price that some of these bunches a charging for paint protection. No paint protection will protect your paint from stone chips and birdshit that's left to sit in the sun for ages is also going to mark your paint. If someone in the know can prove me wrong I'm all ears.

Yeah seriously not a huge fan of slotters but being an XA GS that is what it bloody came with and I'm sort of keen on the original look. 
 
I've got the globes and with the hoist in the shed now it only takes a heart beat to swap wheels.  Gotta a lot of panel and paint to do before the wheels get fitted anyway.
 
feel free to drop into the shed any Saturday to help if you like - always beer in the fridge. 

I've used the Clarks rubber ones and if you trim em right the join isn't even noticeable. I start at the bottom edge in the centre then tap it onto the pinch weld with a rubber mallet paying particular attention to the corners making sure they are in place as far as they can go. Once you get down to the join cut the seal ever so slightly bigger than you want and you should be able to with a little force it should slot in there and be virtually invisible if you trim it neatly. A bit of Loctite or super glue will have it finished. 

Been a very long time since I had anything xflow powered. But way back in the day I had an automatic xe esp with the efi motor. Was pathetic with the auto. Swapped to a single rail and better. Next was 2 1/2 zorst and extractors and better again. Blew the diff up and swapped to a 3.23 centre and that was probably the best seat of my pants mod by a mile. Being an efi motor and in the mid 90's no one had a clue on how to tune a modded one so crow recommended a cam for it that would run ok with the factory computer. I've got no idea on specs but it idled like a stocker but made crazy torque for the nothing motor that it was. Didn't rev at all but it didn't need to either. Drove like a stocker and blew the doors off plenty of heros in their v6 commies and 3.0 vl's and 253's Then it developed an appetite for distributor gears and I got the shits with it and went to a clevo! Was a fun car with the torquey lazy crossie though.

Been a very long time since I had anything xflow powered. But way back in the day I had an automatic xe esp with the efi motor. Was pathetic with the auto. Swapped to a single rail and better. Next was 2 1/2 zorst and extractors and better again. Blew the diff up and swapped to a 3.23 centre and that was probably the best seat of my pants mod by a mile. Being an efi motor and in the mid 90's no one had a clue on how to tune a modded one so crow recommended a cam for it that would run ok with the factory computer. I've got no idea on specs but it idled like a stocker but made crazy torque for the nothing motor that it was. Didn't rev at all but it didn't need to either. Drove like a stocker and blew the doors off plenty of heros in their v6 commies and 3.0 vl's and 253's Then it developed an appetite for distributor gears and I got the shits with it and went to a clevo! Was a fun car with the torquey lazy crossie though.

I've only driven a couple of 5.4 boss equipped cars one an xr8 the other a GT. Both left me underwhelmed. No offense to anyone with one of these but they didn't do it for me at all. The Miami motored cars would be the shit I reckon and if you were going to the hassle of such a swap it'd be the only way to go.

I've only driven a couple of 5.4 boss equipped cars one an xr8 the other a GT. Both left me underwhelmed. No offense to anyone with one of these but they didn't do it for me at all. The Miami motored cars would be the shit I reckon and if you were going to the hassle of such a swap it'd be the only way to go.

I've only driven a couple of 5.4 boss equipped cars one an xr8 the other a GT. Both left me underwhelmed. No offense to anyone with one of these but they didn't do it for me at all. The Miami motored cars would be the shit I reckon and if you were going to the hassle of such a swap it'd be the only way to go.

I've only driven a couple of 5.4 boss equipped cars one an xr8 the other a GT. Both left me underwhelmed. No offense to anyone with one of these but they didn't do it for me at all. The Miami motored cars would be the shit I reckon and if you were going to the hassle of such a swap it'd be the only way to go.

dont worry blu xe a twin turbo 4.6 mod motor was discussed for a while.
 
there are more and more weld in front ends being developed for x series now, but most dont say that xd-f are compatible. they couldnt be too far different??
 
id love to see a 5.0 in a older car. far better than the old 5.4 lump that was before it. 

Ando76 is spot on. Metal conditioners when used PROPERLY are awesome. If not done properly though can lead to bigger issues later down the track than if you hadn't used em in the first place. We use a ppg metal conditioner and yes it must be cleaned off with water and nothing but water. This is what neutralises the acids . I totally soak a rag then wipe the bulk off then come back over with 3 more times with damp rags to get the rest off. Then dry with a air. Something else to consider is not letting it get in between seams and joins because it will be hard to guarantee that you have in fact nuetralised it. Which will be hard to do on the underside of the car.
To be honest if you've blasted it clean I'd be inclined to just clean up the grit and ep straight over what you've done. With any bare metal prep I do I ALWAYS will only strip as much as I know I can prime straight away. So for panels i'll do say 2 doors at a time. Starting on 1 panel includes paint removal orby finish back to bare once the bulk is gone then metal conditioning then another pass with the orby with 80 or even 40 grit to really key it up then epoxy it immediately. Then move onto the next panel. Up here we have to be very particular with the whole process because of the humidity. It may sound like paranoia but this is what works for me and I've done more than a few bare metal jobs that are 7 plus years old now that aren't showing any signs of funky shit playing up under the paint.

Im playing with a car atm thats been blasted and i just scuffed it up real hard, I cleaned it and shot the epoxy over it i did treat a few spots that looked a little iffy but im much happyer shooting over somthing thats clean and shiny than over a metal prep. Its working for me so far so i hope im doing it right 

Yes seen many pretty cars turn to shit once they make the move to FNQ. A half assed job doesn't stand a chance in our conditions. This is always something that shits me when someone comes in and freaks out when we give them a rough idea of what they will be paying to have a job that's covered by a lifetime paint warranty and done to a standard that we think needs to be adhered to , to have half a chance of surviving up here.. Its always the case of so and so down the road will do it for half of that then complain about it when it goes to shit cause they were to tight to pony up the proper dollars to get the job done right! A lot of these same people are happy to sink 20g plus into an engine that will go bang the first time its leaned on and are perfectly ok with that cause its a race motor that shit happens! But fark its on like donkey kong if their cheapy $5000 paint job blisters up after 6 months .Go figure!LOL.
Rant over back to topic now!

I always use PROTEC metal conditioner on freshly bared surfaces - whether they are hand/chemically bare metalled or blasted.
 
PROTEC metal conditioner is phosphoric acid and yes it will leave a coppery/rust like coating when prepared properly or bare steel.  I only use EPOTEC on bare steel.  It is a 2pac - primer filler and etch all in one.  We have to do it this way in the tropics because of the humidity.  Bog on bare up here and you are in big trouble.  same for any single pack left for a short period.
 
I highly recommend EPOTEC over bare.  I can show numerous examples of cars that have been done this way and are still rust free - have no humidity blister or rust creep.  And that is cars that live here in Cairns we have rusts best friends, humidity, rain and salty air.
 
If you are using PROTEC metal conditioner and then going over that with a 2K primer (EPOTEC) then follow the instructions on the bottle.  It will scare the shit out of you but you wash it off with water (yes water) and then blow it off so it is thoroughly dry (yes it will go that coppery colour) and then hit it with your EPOTEC. 
 
YES you WILL shit yourself and think this is wrong it's all rusty like - I'm doing this wrong.  Trust me your not.  Way back when I showed you those photos of the door where I had run the punch and flange too in and repaired the lower section - well that door was treated that way.  It is still sitting in the exact same position as when I took that photo and has been there for 3 years and shows no signs of rust creep or nothing.  And it has been hit with the hose numerous times as I hose down the floor before painting and it cops it. 
 
So short answer is - follow the instructions on the PROTEC metal conditioner for 2pac priming and you will not go wrong.