93xf

Gee. I've been bush for four days with no phone or internuts. It's been busy in here.
 
The target for this engine is well over 400hp at the crank. I honestly believe that this is attainable based on the flow figures, cam and compression. I'm pretty much all over theoretical HP calculations and all the stuff you read. THOR is right on the optimum numbers that all my mentors talked about. These are men that have built way more engines than I and who live, eat and breath engines.
 
Old faithful has way less cylinder head, camshaft and comp and pumps 260@the tyres thru a 3500 stall. At the end of the day it will make what it makes.
 
Yes Dave - this is going in the corty drag car. It will be a stripped out, dedicated drag car. I make no apologies for running it in such a car. It's what I want to do and to me a light corty makes a lot of sense.

Put a tighe 392c in there on 110 lobe separation and hold the fek on. Best solid cam for a tough x flow and good for well over 250@ the tyres with the right head and four barrel manifold.
This camshaft just works in a tough crossy. In my opinion nothing else comes close. I've used them for years, tried others, always came back to the 392c on 110 lobe sep.
it will pull like a 14 year old from 2500-6500 without a drama.

That sounds like a stout combo so the first cam would do it justice more than the second one, which might be a little tame for what you're after.
 
Crow seem to be the type of cam you go for if you want a proven, ready to run, off-the-shelf stick that might not be 100% exactly what you want but close.
 
If you want to go with Crow, buy from Precision International. They are much cheaper and you can get lifters while you're at it, get the whole lot delivered to your door and bloody quick. They never sell shit quality.
 
Another brand they sell which is much cheaper is called Dynotec. They use the same German-made blank as what Crow use (found this out myself) but are ground in Taiwan. The machines they use are very modern and grind all 16 lobes at once, meaning mass production is cheaper yet still accurate. They don't do many aggressive profiles so might not suit you in this case.
 
Others on here have their own preference for cam manufacturers but keep in mind that all of them almost always use the same source for their blanks. It comes down to what profile works for what combo, and how accurate their timing is when ground.

Got it in today thanks for the help, rotated it a bit then rocked back n forth then Walla it went in

in car
 

No he needs to speak to the professionals...there a real black art and only a custom convertor to suit the cars mods and needs will do.Over the shelf need not apply.

I haven't done it but pretty sure having spoken to a few people that the benefits are all definitely all there. You won't see the same huge advantages in boosted applications but nat asp it would still be all positives. The much higher octane rating alone and the huge knock resistance will allow you to dial in a lot more timing which crossflows respond very well too. There are heaps of benefits, there will probably be others than can give you a much more in depth explanation but yeah. Mines pretty high comp (around 12:1) and i run on 98 + octane boosted to 100 (wish i didn't go flat tops but oh well all done now) which means i have always struggled with pinging and timing, but last week managed to get it on a dyno to check all the A/F ratios and all. Moved the base timing from around 7-8 degrees (hard to tell exactly) to 10 degrees, so around a 2-3 degree shift. It picked up 4rwhp peak and shifted it slightly earlier in the rev range, but more importantantly it picked up an average of around 26rwhp throughout the good part of rev range before tapering off. This was the only movement in timing i did and stopped there because it was the first time the car had actually been working in like 2 years so i left with a smile haha! (Definitely a lot more in it just wasn't up for exploring it on that day, 10 minutes on and off the dyno)
 
So with E85, on a high comp motor like yours as well, i reckon the extra head room from the higher octane rating alone would allow you to muck around with the timing in small increments and see pretty noticeable gains i would think. Just from my experience tho hope some of the others can add as well should be a good thread!
 
Michael

Some Trickflow 170 heads got delivered today for me to port for Wayne (Performance Carb Tune Perth) to run on a new 302w. Here are the specs of the engine that he sent me today.
 
This is the list of bits
STD 302w block 4.030" bore
0 deck height
Head Gasket will be either .030 or .040 depending on final comp
Eagle neutral balance Crank
Eagle I beam rods
Probe +8cc Dome top pistons
Lunati solid roller
Advertised Duration (Int/Exh): 273/279
 
Duration @ .050 (Int/Exh): 243/249 Gross Valve Lift (Int/Exh): .616/.624 ( but using 1.7 rockers so its 654/663) LSA/ICL: 110/106 Valve Lash (Int/Exh): .016/.016 RPM Range: 2500-7000 Victor jnr intake
Will be all motor no NOS or anything else and will be on E85
Want about 13.5:1 comp
And will be in my XL falcon with 4200rpm stall and 4.11s
Use will be street/strip
 
 
So I put the head on the bench today to give me a base line to work with, I have to say the flow figures are a fair way from the advertised figures given by the manufacturer, I do have to take into account a bit of carbon buildup but not much, also I calibrate my bench to read a little low as to not give bullshit flow figures, I rather my bench read low than promise something that isn't there.
 
                        intake                  exhaust
 
50                    30.32                   18.62
100                  61.09                   46.54
150                  93.39                   66
200                  122.5                   83.3
250                  147.15                 100.8
300                  179.26                 118.64
350                  201.5                   133
400                  216.08                 145.43
450                  232.17                 154.26
500                  242.15                 159.56
550                  243.11                 165.04
600                  233.27                 169.88
650                  236.19                 173.53
700                  233.34                 177.9
 
So my main aim is make the ports stable all the way to max lift and obviously gain some flow as well. I will be starting these heads mid next week as I'm just doing a set of L67 heads and manifold for a supercharged V6 engine at the moment then straight into these. I will keep you lot updated as I go

One of the first things I do when tuning a car is make sure it is actually getting full throttle!!  You would be surprised at the amount of times that this isn't occurring because of one reason or another,
 
incorrect - cable adjustment
                 throttle pedal action
                 return spring tension
                 pin position at the throttle linkage etc. etc.
 
Once you have established that you have full throttle and there is a throttle stop working to not stress the cable, I move onto checking the position of the throttle blades at idle.  Too many times I have seen the idle circuit (particularly oh Holleys) totally destroyed by someone opening up the idle too far just to get the car to run. 
 
You should be able to get the car to idle with the butterflies JUST cracked open (even on a cranky engine) with careful adjustment of timing and mixtures. Base timing MUST be set with the butterflies as close to closed as possible.  This ensures that the carby actually retains an idle circuit and ensures a smooth transition onto the mains. 
 
Float level should also be checked at this time to ensure that we are not flooding the carb.  On Holleys I actually take the bowl off and adjust the float level off the carb.  I turn the bowl upside down and make sure that the float finishes up half way between the screws in the bowl (that hold the float assembly).  Simple when you have re-usable gaskets.
 
Once all that is good I move onto checking manifold vacuum at idle and setting idle mixture.  If you don't have an O2 sensor fitted in the car you have to go old school and adjust the mixture to get the best vacuum at idle.  small adjustments at a time.  There is some good you tube videos from Holley on this very subject. 
 
Once you have the best manifold vacuum record that figure and then remove the bowl and metering block (on holleys in talking here cause if you have a stock webber you should ditch it and get a performance carby LOL.)  and check power valve sizing.  we want half of the manifold vacuum here.
 
Ok once that is all sorted we can look at timing adjustments as so eloquently detailed by Clevo120 above.
 
If you don't have access to a dyno and don't have an O2 sensor in the car the rest is just guess work and feeling how the car is performing on the street and addressing any issues from there.  Jetting without these two tools is left to plug reading which is a black art and requires patience and a good stretch of quiet road and a box of plugs. 
 
With the dyno or O2 sensor on the road, we can look at the AFR readings and change the jetting and air bleeds (if you have a good carby) to get the best performance from the car. 
 
This is all assuming that the dizzy - leads and coil are all doing there job and the engine actually has compression on all cylinders, something that also should be checked before tuning.  If we have a programmable ignition we can also play with timing at given rpm and load points and make some serious power and get the engine very happy right across the rev range. 
 
Yeah there is just a little bit in it to getting correct tune - and then once you have all that you have to watch the weather and altitude to get the last little bit out of the car - well in a race application anyway - lol.  That's my two cents worth.

Yeah sure is Sly. Thanks, and same to you with yours . So close now!

Do stick with it cause you will end up with an awesome car with character not some bland grocery getter with a turbo.

A BA bulge works cos I had one on my xf before I went reverse cowl so I reckon a FG unit been bigger will clear easy as piss.Pics when you do it please...