TUFZJ

Hi guys. I am fixing up a ZJ fairlane, disc brake rear. One of the wheel studs was broken when I got the car (REAR). I am having trouble finding a replacement. All the ones I can find are for the drum rear end. Can anyone help with a part number or supplier? It is the LSD rear end, I believe 2.92 if that makes a difference. Thanks

I will have to take one, how are people uploading stuff now. Still photobucket with the new rules?

Got it up and running today guys. Thanks again for the help. Fuel filter worked a treat. Little weeping from the car by but I will look at rebuilding it now that I know it's a good one.

Awesome information. You guys are fantastic. The pump should arrive tonight so I will have it running today I hope, unless the carby leaks fuel everywhere

Thanks for the reply. I have already ordered one from eBay just yo get it running. That will do for now until I build an engine up. I saw plenty of pictures with them before the carby but I thought it would make more sense before the pump? The carby is a holley 600 so not sure about filter or if it even works. I siphoned some fuel through the fuel lines and it came out pretty clean. I might run it for a bit then change the filter over quickly.

Hi guys. I am fixing up a ZJ fairlane 302 as a project. It has been running on LPG only for a few years and wont start on petrol. I want to get the petrol system up and running again. I suspect the fuel pump is shot so I have bought a new one, the fuel filter seems to have been removed for a lock off solenoid. I wanted to know where people put the fuel filters? after the fuel pump before the carby or before the fuel pump? Also is the fuel line recommended to be 3/8 or 5/16 in the engine bay? Any recommendations on fuel pump or will those cheap clear ryco inline ones do?

That's great. Thanks guys. Great place to start.

Thanks guys. Excellent information. I think you are right, I was getting excited but it's the wrong time. I'll just get some studs and live with it until I'm sure. Can the 600s be jetted to not be so thirsty or is there a better carby recommendation keeping in mind that I will drive it as a 302 for a while then build a 351 with as much low down torque as I can get in mind. Which dual plane manifold would you recommend. Thanks again for your patience with all my questions. I will get a build thread going soon to show progress.

Yeah it is LSD and a factory 302 so should be 2.92. It is pretty relaxed on the highway. I guess I'm best off putting new studs in and driving it until it breaks. Sounds like when it goes that the 3.08 will be the go when it gives up. I'll just have to get a wagon tail shaft to go with it. At least I know it's an easy option later on and much cheaper than a 9". Speaking of the TQ earlier. The car has a 600 holley on it which hasn't run for years as it's been on lpg. The car will be a long term project car so I'm thinking about removing the lpg as it won't be available for a long time and sticking to petrol. How are the 600s as a carb? (New to this old v8 stuff) the plan is to build a tough engine (351) with a focus on torque and mainly use it for cruising with a C4

That's what I was thinking. 3.08 might be a good compromise. How fast will that spin at 100? I think the 2.92 are around the 2400 mark? The upside is that the 3.08 diffs should be cheap and easy to find.

Thanks guys. Yeah a couple of wheel studs are broken so it's a good excuse to put a new diff in. I was thinking 3.08 or 3.2X for cruising and a bit more torque. Don't want it howling at 100. Someone said that if using a regular sedan the e series tail shaft Was a different size than X series but I used one in my old XF ok. I was wondering if the same applies with the LWB but I doubt it. I was planning on just sticking with the ZJ leafs and just adapting the diff. Do the EB/ED wagon handbrakes just bolt up? I know you need a brake line adaptor.

Hi guys. I have a tail shaft question for the gurus. I have a ZJ V8 with a 2.92 diff, it has broken studs. So instead of fixing it I thought that I might just upgrade to a newer e series diff with the benefit of it being stronger and better ratios. I have done a lot of searching and it seems that as long as I use the a wagon diff there is no suspension issues, if I use EB and ED diffs then the hand brake is the same. (I need to pass a rwc so it has to work). My first question is that I can't get a straight answer on tailshafts for the LWB. People say that for the sedans that you need a spacer etc. If I use a wagon tail shaft will it be the right length for the fairlane? Also what ratios did the eb ed wagon have? I don't have a tacho but I think the 2.92 with c4 does about 2400. The car will do a lot of highway driving and will be set up for torque and to cruise. I was thinking either 3.08 or 3.23 but keen to hear people's thoughts and what rpm they do at 100 with these gears.

Thank you. I will start a build thread very soon. I love this site and can't wait to get involved a bit more. Thanks for them info, just have to find one now

Hi guys, I have recently bought myself a ZJ fairlane as my new project. I just saw a picture of one with black rubber lip (front bumper) off an XD/XE S-Pack (maybe on some other models too). It looked really good IMO. My question is, can you put these lips on a ZJ bumper, or would I need an S-Pack style bumper and swap it over? If it can be adapted, any idea if they can still be bought new or do I need to chase a second hand one?