Ommoht

The higher nickel content gave the Australian Blocks better wear resistance than their American predecessor. Be careful Gerg when comparing hardness to wear resistance, if you think back to your metallurgy days… hardness is a measure of impact resistance only and doesn’t take into account the whole micro-structure of the material so "superior wear resistance" is the term used to be more accurate. Hence shorter tool life.
 
Basically when the 30x blocks were sent over to re-qualify the tools it was found life expectancy of the boring-tools was much less than they had encountered previously with the American Iron. They tested the iron and found the Australian iron, although with-in spec. was superior by far for wear resistance. I'm sure hardness would have been part of that testing and determined to be higher too. They upgraded to tungsten carbide tooling and that fixed the problem, prior to sending the tooling back here.
 
A different casting process was used in Geelong than CCP too; which is much more stable.
 
The drama with the tooling being damaged & having to be sent back initially was a totally unrelated event that happened during shipping.  

i've had supercats in that size and they were surprisingly good enough, especially compared to 14years old burnout tyres.....
maxxis would probably be better,
if the chinese tyres are half the cost, they probably grip as well and will wear out in a third the time, so you wont need to worry about them getting old..  not sure they'd be as strong otherwise though

Rims are off and stripped.  Found play in both lower ball joints.  They won't be causing the vibration but 2 x new TRW ball joints purchased anyway.
 
Now I'm on the search for a small (62mm) centre original 12 slot wheel ROH 6JJ 14 for the front.  I have one already so might as well match the front wheels to the hubs once I track down another wheel.

Although I didn't want to throw a set of tyres at this thing, I think it's the way forward......specially given that they are coded 3202 (14 years old) !
 
Try and get decent 14" tyres in 2016. I have a choice of about 2 tyres in 215/65R14, Bridgestone Supercats or Maxxis UA630.
 
Or I can by Superior Mystique Fortune Sky Happy tyre.

Find a nice open car park or super quiet street and select reverse.  While reversing, apply moderate brake pressure using your left foot (not enough to stop the car).
 
Sometimes 3 or 4 passes of about 50 - 100m in reverse with some brake applied can loosen the material that's squeaking.
 
Often though, if the reverse method stops the squeak, it can return and then you end up having to slip the pads out and rough them up and chamfer anyway.
 
Any persistent squealing after that and you either rough up or lightly machine the rotors.
 
This is all assuming your pad fitment is correct and none of the slides / slide pins are stuck or binding.

Oi stop giving away trade secrets haha

Find a nice open car park or super quiet street and select reverse.  While reversing, apply moderate brake pressure using your left foot (not enough to stop the car).
 
Sometimes 3 or 4 passes of about 50 - 100m in reverse with some brake applied can loosen the material that's squeaking.
 
Often though, if the reverse method stops the squeak, it can return and then you end up having to slip the pads out and rough them up and chamfer anyway.
 
Any persistent squealing after that and you either rough up or lightly machine the rotors.
 
This is all assuming your pad fitment is correct and none of the slides / slide pins are stuck or binding.

Hey, who said anything about Chinese tyres......
 
Cheers Mate and yeah, I'll be going the Maxxis which are from Taiwan I think.  Hey it's all a little bit of Malaysian rubber and a shitload of silicon these days.
 
I've heard that Malaysian tyres like Sime actually have better rubber content too, because Sime Darby own the plantations.  There's a bit of trivia for ya.
 
Dearly would have loved some BFG Redline Radials in 205/70 with the red band but at $380 a pop, that's just not an option.

Those hub centric spacers do work i had to put them on my customline when it still had a standard diff, you could check if it's the tyres themselves by swapping them front to back and seeing if the vibration moves

Had to get hub spacers for our custom wheels on our focus ,,
Small vibe arround 90 .
 
But like you say " little low spot ,"on one of the fronts ,,
Bung it on the back , or stick a spare wheel on one side at a time to narrow it down ,,
Even wheel alighnment
 
Or as above ,, tail shaft " out of bdlance " or buggered frozen or stuffed uni

Jack up car, see if wheel is wobbling when you spin it. Rim could be bent, from gutter hit.
Check uni joints on tail shaft.
Make sure shockies are in good nick, if they're fooked, they will "float" and not contact the ground properly.
Got correct pressure in them?
 
 
 
......oh, and welcome. 

Cheers bear.  Shockies and uni joints are sweet.  Wheels don't have any damage or lateral run out.  Nothing obvious when spun up on the car or the wheel balancer.
 
I just did 300kms on the Perth All Ford Day Cruise and below 100, she's as smooth as you like.  Push up past that and the first sense of vibration comes through the steering wheel.  Vibration (not wheel wobble).  Then you start to hear / feel it through the dash as well.
 
I don't want to just throw a pair of new tyres on the front without getting a few opinions.  Specially given that I've already swapped front and rear with no difference.
Could it be irregularity in all of the tyres from sitting ?  Has anyone solved similar by fitting CBL rings on the front hubs ?  I struggle to believe that's going to make a difference.