Just had enough DW 40 left in my Nozzle can to fill it up, After a few jiggle's and cuss word's it turn. it feels rough to turn so will go buy some more WD 40 before i open it too give it a service. thank's  deankxf

yeah they are pretty bad and very hard to line up to work properly.

i've had several that had home made latches and gate locks etc and one had the pin filed down so it would close easier (this is the one that fell open easily)  i used the number plate screws to screw into the panel behind . (did this by accident once also)    good luck, if you can turn the key, it should come open with some prying   

Thx for quick reply. Ignition/door key fit's the wheel lock...will give it a spray with WD 40 and give it a go . Was told i would need a crow bar to open it as i remember at Vehicle hand over. At least now i know i have the right key in lock while attempting to unlock it.

i never trusted those latches on them, they often either stuck or didn't latch in my experience (perhaps because they'd backed into a trailer hitch etc too many times from previous owners   they should match one of the keys (i think it's the door/ign key) *the one that fits in the hole... glovebox usually matched the sedan boot key. last ute i had, i pulled the tumblers out of the lock so a screwdriver would open it or any key that fit due to it being full of dust/dirt etc.    if you suspect you have original door/ign locks, i'd firstly spray it with WD40 etc in the lock hole, in the gaps to the lock and try wiggling the key as you try turn it while putting upward pressure on the door.    if you can figure out where this is in relation to the pin it latches to, you can drill a hole or poke and prod to release it.    they can be really hard to open even when everything worked.. and hard to close (i screwed mine shut in the past due to them coming open on dirt roads)    

That little spring is what is missing ,Driver's door never could be opened from outside since i got it . Got some arriving today . This thread made me happy.

I only have two key's for the Ute , Glove Box and ignition/Door's .  Is there suppose to be a third key for the Spare Tyre lock ? .  Also if i drill the lock out will i need to use some MacGyver intuition to keep it closed till i find a new lock.

thanks managed to find a good condition second hand one from a working vehicle with the same FA lettering as mine, going to try replacing that once it arrives, if no go then dizzy will have to come out

It usually means a revision - Ford/Bosch made some small design change, (such as tweaked timing map)? But they're essentially still the same

I'd assume it will work, i have no idea what the difference FA Vs FB is.  they are pretty basic, i'd expect an auto one would work with a manual and vice versa fine also .   

ok thanks for the info i might see if i can find an EST computer. There is a place in Victoria that specialises in dizzy rebuilds so i was planning on taking it out and sending it to them to test and rebuild, and not moving the car while it was out so dizzy would just slide back in without need for re-timing it.   i can get a used computer that has all the same letters and numbers as mine (photo below) expect where mine says FA the replacement one says FB, does anyone know what the FA vs FB represents and will it fit?