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thanks managed to find a good condition second hand one from a working vehicle with the same FA lettering as mine, going to try replacing that once it arrives, if no go then dizzy will have to come out

ok thanks for the info i might see if i can find an EST computer. There is a place in Victoria that specialises in dizzy rebuilds so i was planning on taking it out and sending it to them to test and rebuild, and not moving the car while it was out so dizzy would just slide back in without need for re-timing it. i can get a used computer that has all the same letters and numbers as mine (photo below) expect where mine says FA the replacement one says FB, does anyone know what the FA vs FB represents and will it fit?

tried another new coil (C176) car ran fine for 5 mins then just stopped again and wouldnt restart, seems to be taking less time from when its running to when it cuts out. going to have to take the dizzy out next and get that checked as mentioned above by Sparky_Dave ,..... running out of things it could be

yeah i dont get it either

update: i put a new coil on it (C176) and it ran very rough missing and carrying on (yes i double checked it was wired correctly same as old one) and the car cut off within a few minutes of idling, tried starting it was very hard to start and when it did was still running rough missing etc. I put the old coil back on it and runs smooth like it always has but it i wll cutout eventually after driving it for a while.So for some reason it didnt like the new coil. i checked the new coil with multimeter and it was within specs and so was the old original made in Australia one one. I checked the dizzy for the centre carbon contact and it looked fine,i checked the wiring in and out of the fuse mentioned above and all looked good. i cleaned the contact faces on the main earth strap maybe that will help, if not i am running out of easier things to try and guess i will have to pull the dizzy out

thanks for the replies, gives me a few things to try, the coil is pretty hot,(almost too hot to hold) when it happens but i thought maybe thats normal given where its located, might try a new coil first as thats probably the cheapest and easiest. i did check it with a multimeter and was within range but given it happens only now and then i was thinking you could test it ten times and be ok then test it again and be bad so easier to just put a new coil on it for $50 odd . I will check that wiring connection too, if that doesnt fix it i will have to look at the dizzy, i did take the dist. cap off and all looked good there thanks for the replies

I have a 1988 XF carby ute manual 3 on the tree stock standard, and lately when i am driving along car just completely cuts out without warning, i can pull over and it restarts straight away then dies again not long after (time varies) but can always restart it. It idles fine, and starts fine.what can the issue be, seems to happen only once car gets up to temp. Last time i drove it it was fine for 15mins or so then after it was at temp it hesitated for a second and backfired and blew a hole in the muffler, i kept driving and another ten minutes later it cut out completely, i pulled over and it re-started straight away, i drove another 5 mins and it cut out again, restated straight away, this went on a few times until i made it home. I have 1/replaced fuel filter (original plastic in-line one was clean anyway) 2/replaced mechanical fuel pump 3/ checked for vacuum leaks 3/rebuilt carby Any help would be appreciated thanks

does anyone on here have a yellow PVS i could buy, (second hand is fine) like the one in the photo thanks

yep might have to do that just to get it back on the road, would like to keep it all original and connected if i can get another one, just because its all pretty original and has been that way in the 15 years i have had it and i kind of like it that way

ahhh i thought so, great a simple thermostat change turns into a bigger deal than i thought, where do you even buy the PVS from i cant find them on the net anywhere

Buy a Tridon thermostat gasket, they're adhesive on one side so you can "glue" the thermostat into the housing before assembly ok thanks mate

all of the sensors i can find on line (most are three port) but they all have that bottom piece attached to the sensor (ie its part of the sensor) so i dont know

so when i took the vacum sensor off the old housing (old housing has small crack so am replacing it) some of the senor is still in the housing, looks like the bottom of the sensor has broken off? and is still in the housing so seems i need a new two port sensor now? is this correct the part still in the housing should be attached to the end of the thread on the sensor otherwise i dont see how it would come out. if so where do i find a new one

Also has anyone noticed how difficult it is to fit the thermostat, other cars i have had the thermostat sits in a horizontal housing in a groove so it just sits in place. The issue i found with the XF is that when you sit the thermostat it in the groove in the housing and tip it up vertical to bolt it onto the engine block is slips out of the groove easily, and you cant put the thermostat in the engine blocl side and offer the housing up to it as there is no groove in the block side for the thermostat to sit in. wondering if there is any trick to it, i was going to loop a piece of string around the thermostat and out thru the hose outlet in the thermostat housing to hold the thermostat in the groove when i offer it up to the block and then once bolted in place pull the string out thru the hole in the thermostat hosing where the hose fits on thoughts......

ok cool thanks for the replies yeah its a Carbi model, good to know its not under the dash. I shall have a look on the weekend. I have had the car for 15 years and always run coolant/corrosion inhibitor in it