I personally would rather stay as close to a standard bore as possible. It also depends on what you are trying to do, such as, are you going for all out performance or a mild combination... also are you thinking cast, hypereutectic, or forged piston's? There is a lot to consider when building engines... e.g. taking a block out to what is considered maximum, can bring on other issues, like the cooling system may need to be upgraded and the possibility of split bores, and boring out to max also reduces the amount of area for the head gasket to seal against, as the distance between bores is less... Some 265 Hemi 6 blocks can be bored to 90 thou, taking it from 3.91" to 4.00", which all of a sudden opens up a more extensive range of possibilities... Sorry I don't have a direct answer to your question, just some food for thought...👍

Awesome wheels! I have a set of 14x8's, but yours look more like 9's at least. Are they 14's or 15's?  

*crickets*

So, I found an ED ECU in my parts collection that was the correct part number! Installed, and problem solved with no money spent.

650hp hard on been beaten to death now & the big head seen reason after multiple repeated Google searches coming to the realization that the budget even though very generous was going to explode 💣 into the stratosphere🤯 BUT 😅 there's been a compromise 🌠 3v CHI 60cc 185 Heads/single plane 6.3" manifold 💥...   And in other breaking news whilst that was all developing the XFV8 Fairmont had been in the shop getting the infamous rusty plenum sorted,windscreen in & out,painted all for a mere $1250 NZD.   Bonus the photos uploaded, goal is being able to close my bonnet, the way I see it I've got to the top of carburetor rod to play around with for height & probably a smaller diameter air cleaner 

All good. Depends on what you really want, a 400HP Clevo is fine for street use, 3.55 diff gears, closed chamber iron heads or CHI if you have the coin. But then you have to buy a CHI intake, ARP head studs, and down the rabbit hole you go...... 

Cant help with the code, but any good panel shop should be able to colour match it pretty close. Some even have a machine that they hold over the panel and it prints out the code/paint mix. Ford used a lot a Argent silver and dark Argent in the early days for Grilles wheels etc..

Pretty much what the title says, can the AU 4litre bore out to 60 thou, which would pretty much give it dead on 250 cubic inches.   Is it worth the effort going for 60 thou, I know crossflows and a lot of other sixes have no issues with a 60 thou overbore and it gives about 6 extra cubes on a 6, but is overboring the block really worth the effort?   Also does anybody have any recommendations for piston brands these days. Normally I would of just picked up some ACL's but seeing as they dont do that stuff anymore, what's the next best thing?

Hello again everyone.    I'm back with another question about my XC.    I want to refresh the air cleaner and give it a new coat of paint, but I'm not sure what the actual colour is?    Would it have a code at all, and how could I find it?    Any help would be greatly appreciated.    Thank you.    (By the way, the photo I've included is NOT my air cleaner. Just a photo taken from the internet as an example.) 😁

I think I will try to find a second hand ECU. EB-ED 4.0 auto with 3.23 diff is the same part number, so pretty much any EB-ED 4.0 auto ECU will run it. If that solves the issue, I can then try to find the 100% correct ECU.