bear351c 10,270 Posted January 21, 2020 Apparently Graffix Unlimited can make almost any sticker with a good sample. Never used them, but others on here have. 2 gerg and CHESTNUTXE reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CHESTNUTXE 7,312 Posted January 21, 2020 yeah i have bought heaps of that bloke,might be worth a shot bear,or maybe even try to remove it very gently with warm water like let it soak for a day in soapy water ? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bear351c 10,270 Posted January 21, 2020 Prob be cooked on by now. Nice and brittle. Maybe a hair dryer or very low, heat from a heat gun..?? 1 CHESTNUTXE reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CHESTNUTXE 7,312 Posted January 21, 2020 i have found some but they are not for a galaxie but ? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CHESTNUTXE 7,312 Posted January 21, 2020 im on the phone to orlando florida in 20 mins when dearborn classics open,they do everything re pro that has ever been made,but here is the six million dollar question in their catolouge there is no such thing as a 1971 400 emissions sticker wtf ? could this be the unicorn engine ? sent out the back door to australia ? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CHESTNUTXE 7,312 Posted January 21, 2020 hmmm i just spoke mr expert on 400 engines from america and he says they have never heard of a 400 1971 engine sticker ???????????????????????????????????????????????,this is getting weird man,he suggests getting on a 1971 galaxie forum and ask guys who have the same 400 cars so i will try that tomorrow Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CHESTNUTXE 7,312 Posted January 22, 2020 hmmm i just spoke mr expert on 400 engines from america and he says they have never heard of a 400 1971 engine sticker ???????????????????????????????????????????????,this is getting weird man,he suggests getting on a 1971 galaxie forum and ask guys who have the same 400 cars so i will try that tomorrowSpoke to another galaxi forum and he said same thing ipossible to get ?Sent from my SM-G570Y using Tapatalk Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Boingk 862 Posted January 22, 2020 Hi-res photo of the sticker, as flat as possible in orientation. Measure for size and include the measurements in the photo you send. Make sure they're the right sort, eg metric or imperial. Surely that will get you sorted. 1 CHESTNUTXE reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CHESTNUTXE 7,312 Posted January 23, 2020 Hi-res photo of the sticker, as flat as possible in orientation. Measure for size and include the measurements in the photo you send. Make sure they're the right sort, eg metric or imperial. Surely that will get you sorted.Update i managed to clean up the sticker a bit plus scrub someones attempt to brush some paint on the covers and i think i can save the sticker and just paint around it also with a new hyd cam what sought of dizzy gear do i need ?Sent from my SM-G570Y using Tapatalk Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Boingk 862 Posted January 23, 2020 Most hyd cams will just need a standard cast gear. Check with the manufacturer though. 1 CHESTNUTXE reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CHESTNUTXE 7,312 Posted January 24, 2020 Most hyd cams will just need a standard cast gear. Check with the manufacturer though. I worked hard and cleaned the covers without wrecking the sticker also interesting note waterpump was replaced with 1977 cf foundry item at one stage and alt was stamped 1976 Sent from my SM-G570Y using Tapatalk Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Boingk 862 Posted January 24, 2020 Would this help for the sticker mate? https://cgfordparts.com/ufolder/fordpart.php?number=DF763 1 CHESTNUTXE reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CHESTNUTXE 7,312 Posted January 24, 2020 i just had a look but same buisness no 1971 d1ae sticker for a 400 ,i joined a few other forums just to find out what is going on and they said the same thing it doesnt exist,ive got a feeling that the car was imported to australia because our emissions were still all leaded fuel,but it dont make sense it wasnt until 1973 the yanks started using unleaded,today i spent many hours hot tanking parts with a makeshift bucket of degreaser ,and seems to be doing the job,i garantee the valve seats will be for leaded fuel but i will get the machine shop to test them,not that thats a worry cause you can run valve saver ,i have just about cleaned all the valves ,exhausts are pretty clean,but intakes are caked with grit,but cleaning up ok,i also cleaned the original valve springs which to my surprise were white ?? im also thinking of retro fitting it with a hyd roller cam ,just a small one with linkbar lifters or get the machine shop to drill the 2 holes needed for the spider i think the linkbar way is the way to go but not cheap as roller cams are a fair bit of coin ,or just fit a small crow 21890 hyd and be done with it,other guys on another forum swear by this cam for a stock to mild 400,also i spoke to a bloke who said buy the weiand manifold as it was desighed for the 400 as the edelbrock just had its runners extended from a std 351 manifold,my pistons are on the way from america and should be here soon ,then i can do the set up and see how far down the hole they are,im really looking forward to doing this but im gunna need some help from you guys ,so if i use the open large chamber heads how far down should the deck height be from the piston ? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Boingk 862 Posted January 24, 2020 Hey mate good progress. If you're going with the open chambers you want the piston as close to the deck as possible while achieving desired compression, up to about 10:1 or so. Good info on the intake and camshaft, I'd also recommend the Elgin E-907-P I had in my 351, similar to the Crow you mention just a bit more meat. That thing just pulled everywhere and was a hoot to drive, decent economy as well. Here's a link: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/ELGIN-Performance-Camshaft-E-907-P-for-Ford-351C-351M-400-V8-505-505/263326307722?epid=227443570&hash=item3d4f78958a:g:KP0AAOSwqhlc-nEZ&frcectupt=true - boingk 1 CHESTNUTXE reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CHESTNUTXE 7,312 Posted January 24, 2020 is that a roller or hyd ? picture is roller Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Boingk 862 Posted January 24, 2020 3 minutes ago, CHESTNUTXE said: is that a roller or hyd ? picture is roller Generic picture, the actual cam is a hydraulic flat tappet. I used the standard cheap Elgin replacement lifters, too, worked just fine. 1 CHESTNUTXE reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CHESTNUTXE 7,312 Posted January 24, 2020 i found a kit with cam lifters and springs but im not sure if you use the std retainers Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CHESTNUTXE 7,312 Posted January 24, 2020 also i was gunna buy the 5/16 t0 7/16 studs that screw into the pederstal then fit roller rockers,pro comp do a real cheap set ,or just go the std stamped steel rocker kit .its about the same price.i am also on the phone to usa atm about some special engine mounts for a 400 into our chassis plates. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Boingk 862 Posted January 24, 2020 Hey mate I ran standard (fresh) springs and rockers for my camshaft and it was fine. Its nothing massive, about equivalent to the 'states 351C Boss Mustang motor actually. The ramps on that particular cam are very gentle, too, at 310 degrees advertised for 219@50 so probably nothing more than about 110lb spring closed and 280ish open. I think that is about what they recommend, too. I wouldn't go roller unless you want to mess with the ratio or you have to buy some anyway. Retainers I'd be tempted to go aftermarket, even a cheap set would probably be better than old stuff. Match the diameter to your springs and you're good to go. Mind you, you could temper the original ones.... hmm... 1 CHESTNUTXE reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CHESTNUTXE 7,312 Posted January 25, 2020 Hey mate I ran standard (fresh) springs and rockers for my camshaft and it was fine. Its nothing massive, about equivalent to the 'states 351C Boss Mustang motor actually. The ramps on that particular cam are very gentle, too, at 310 degrees advertised for 219@50 so probably nothing more than about 110lb spring closed and 280ish open. I think that is about what they recommend, too. I wouldn't go roller unless you want to mess with the ratio or you have to buy some anyway. Retainers I'd be tempted to go aftermarket, even a cheap set would probably be better than old stuff. Match the diameter to your springs and you're good to go. Mind you, you could temper the original ones.... hmm...I cleaned up 1 head near perfect probly get the machine shop to just give them a skim valves were all in gc but do i need to lap them in cause they went back in the same holesSent from my SM-G570Y using Tapatalk Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Banno 479 Posted January 25, 2020 If your getting machine shop to skim the heads get them go over valves and check if they in spec. Do it right the first time it’s not like these engines are sitting in every wrecking yard in australia. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 2 CHESTNUTXE and Boingk reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Banno 479 Posted January 25, 2020 Extra note lapping valves is great but not if the guides or seat are stuffed. I sent a head recently for look over which I picked up for nothing that looked great that had a reco from gem reconditioners (think that’s the place)sometime with low kms. Intake valves were okay just need little work on seats and angle but the exhaust valve stems had a mix of worn valve stems and seats. A typical once over close to spec and slapped together reconditioned and sold to the public.Ask them to do it right for me after checkSent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 1 CHESTNUTXE reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CHESTNUTXE 7,312 Posted January 25, 2020 Extra note lapping valves is great but not if the guides or seat are stuffed. I sent a head recently for look over which I picked up for nothing that looked great that had a reco from gem reconditioners (think that’s the place)sometime with low kms. Intake valves were okay just need little work on seats and angle but the exhaust valve stems had a mix of worn valve stems and seats. A typical once over close to spec and slapped together reconditioned and sold to the public.Ask them to do it right for me after checkSent from my iPhone using TapatalkThe valves have very little play but your right i will get olm8 to put the bearing blue and chex em i might even still use 2v closed and use these valves i no he has a few sets down there Sent from my SM-G570Y using Tapatalk Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gerg 10,871 Posted January 25, 2020 The water pump is from a 77 truck (D7TE)Don't go near the Procomp roller rockers. The risk of one letting go and spraying needle rollers through the engine is just not worth it.Rockers are something you simply can't skimp on... I'm a massive tightarse but was fortunate enough to have (nearly) a set of Scorpions donated to me by my brother. If I had to buy my own, it would have been them or Steet Terras, despite them being triple the price of ProChumps.If you can't splash out for USA or Oz made rollers, you'll be better off with stockers, especially if only going with mild springs. Just use a good quality zinc oil with them.The hardened seats will add a lot to the cost of recoing the heads. Seriously, get all of the quotes for the work needed and weigh up if a set of Edelbrock alloys are something you can stretch to. Mine were $1150 for new K-lines where needed, head service, shave 0.025, and machine guide tops for press-on seals. I supplied springs and retainers, so total cost would be around $1500 for everything, and mine already had hardened seats and good valves. If you need them, that's getting up towards 2 grand.Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk 2 Boingk and CHESTNUTXE reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CHESTNUTXE 7,312 Posted January 25, 2020 well i can buy a set of the yella terra ones bolt on with pushrod adj i have had 2 sets of these b4 and to be hoonest they are worth every cent,and life time warranty,i was talking on another forum thismorn to guys that worship 400s and and he said using the aftermarket pistons could be up to 80thou down the hole,so i need assistance gerg on what to do if i fit the the 78.8cc heads should i shave em a bit plus shave the block to the shithouse but what would be a good spot for the piston like how far down the hole 010 ? and if i use the closed chamber 2vs i guess really wont need to shave them or maybe just a surface and how far down the hole with them or zero deck it ? i guess around 9.1.1 or a bit bigger just around 10.1.1 ? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites