Best method for changing loom connectors?

[SLO247 1,713]

So I want to run an XD dash in my XF ute.

 

I decided to stay with the XF engine bay loom for a few reasons, now I need to mate the XD dash wiring loom to the XF engine bay loom.

 

Obviously the connectors are compeltely different, I haven't double checked but I'm sure the XD plugs have big bullet type pins and the XF plugs have the modern flat ones.

 

I was going to just cut and solder the XF plugs onto the XD loom but I remember hearing that solder joints can crack and fail over time, It definitely happens with solder joints in electronics so I believe it.

 

What are the best connectors to use? I know Narva etc sell new connectors with pins I can crimp on and set the connectors up, I've never used these before. If anyone here has do you have any info or tips to share?

 

I'll add this will be inside the cab so no need for the expensive waterproof ones.

[SLO247 1,713]

Something like these?

 

http://www.narva.com.au/products/browse/quick-connect

[hendrixhc 10,921]

Id be cutting, stripping, twisting and soldering then heat shrink. The twisting will supply enough mechanical strength that they wont crack or fracture.

[Mr Polson 10,214]

You're correct in the plug style being different, XD and XF had big circle plugs, XF are rectangular.

 

I'd be agreeing with James though, plenty of twisted overlap then solder should hold up well, that is how it was done in the factory looms if you look under the tape.

 

I'd be sticking with the XF style plugs too, so that they can be pulled through the firewall should you ever need to in the future.

[Crazy2287 1,886]

Any environmentally sealed connector will be fine. Better than factory.

Twist and solder will be fine as long as you immobilise that area of the loom. The solder doesn't crack like on a circuit board. any mechanical stress is transferred through the joint into the threshold where the solder has wicked up the copper. So any lateral or twisting force is applied to the copper immeadiatly after the solder ends. This is why controlling solder wicking is important for longevity of joints in enviroments of high movement or vibration.

 

Short story, yes soldered wire terminations can crack. If a joint is soldered you need to isolate it from mechanical stresses. A properly crimped termination will have a longer life in those situations.

[Crazy2287 1,886]

http://m.ebay.com.au/itm/Genuine-Delphi-Weatherpack-Connector-Kit-215-Pcs-/162113946004?nav=SEARCH

 

Of course crimping them properly is important, a bad crimp will fail eary. So if you do got something like those make sure you know/learn how to properly crimp them.

[SLO247 1,713]

James with your wiring have you soldered the joins?

 

Sounds like it should be ok.

 

Those terminals are small and weather proof, they are going under the dash so any should be fine. Narva does up to 8 way ones, even then I'll probably need at least half a dozen for the dash loom.I don't have any experience crimping non insulated terminals. I'll do some more research.

 

Chris I'm talking about the pins within the plugs, not the plugs themselves.

[hendrixhc 10,921]

Yeah i solder everything. 

 

I even solder all the crimp joins on those narva relay connectors to.

 

Solder, heatshrink and cover the looms.

[deankxf 20,294]

i would also just solder and  heat shrink.. stagger the soldered wires so when you tape up the loom it doesn't bulge as much.

 

whats the reason for using XF engine loom, headlights with relays would be easy. ad a wire for the choke, not much else from memory different.

[SLO247 1,713]

Yeah headlight relays, carb wiring and EST dizzy wiring. Although now I'm thinking I should have just changed the lot to XD/XE and used an old dizzy.

[Xelisty 366]

Good eBay link, just bought a set so thank you

 

Got one of these too. Gee they are good. From cold to melting solder in 3 seconds flat. The battery lasts ages. Worth the cost verse time

 

http://www.surefloexhaust.com.au/misc/cordless_soldering_iron/cordless_soldering_iron.htm

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[deankxf 20,294]

Yeah headlight relays, carb wiring and EST dizzy wiring. Although now I'm thinking I should have just changed the lot to XD/XE and used an old dizzy.

i thought the EST wiring was separate, i recall removing it before..

carb wiring i would guess is just a coil + wire to the fuel cut solenoid and a wire from the alt to the choke.

you'd need to verify this properly by either looking in a wiring diagram or asking a friendly auto elec

[SLO247 1,713]

You may well be right with the EST wiring, havent looked for a few months. I've been doing panel and paint but now he weather is too cool.

 

Going to see if I can source XE or XF looms.

[Maidenfan 22]

I fitted an XD dash to my XF a few years ago. I soldered all the joins, staggered them & covered them in heat shrink. Also immobilized the loom so the solder joins don't crack. Not long ago I converted it from straight gas to straight petrol & I crimped all the joins & terminals. The crimped joins are very strong when you use the non insulated terminals. To join two wire together such as a butt join I just cut the spade section off a non insulated terminal & use the crimp end of  the terminal & stick the two wires in there & crimp it. If done properly it will never come apart.