CROSSY ROCKERS

[broken-wheel 659]

baahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhaaaa my mate who owns a machine shop wanted to charge me $250 per head to accept 7/16. cleveland ???????????

 

holly crap really? 2 passes each and some drilling $500?

 

 

Wazzy made xflow guide plates to suit 5/16 or 3/8th for stud mount. But as said above you only need it if your going for higher RPM big spring pressures. The clamp on shanked units will pull out if show any real pressure or big RPM so it's a case of when needed.

 

So is it a fuck around ? Only on low performance engine.On a good 1 it's piece of mind. 

 

Trying to cut corners or save money in valve train is the worse place.Save it on stock pistons and balanced bottom end but up top needs to legit to be safe to save the fuck around of having to rebuild it later when it drops a valve. 

 

I know how not to cut corners but if the stud looses tension so the guide plate moves you would have bigger problems, are you running 5/16's on yours? I think with 3/8's you might need the plates Wazzy makes if the motor warrants it but 3/8's would be fucking heavy for a crossy as they are way long

 

i always cut the clevo ones....what's Wazzy charging for 5/16's ?

[slydog 7,873]

I have had Wazzy's 3/8th one's with Trend 3/8th pushrods on my engine for years. Less weight than stock as it's pushing a solid roller lifter not a hyd or solid flat tappet unit and there's less deflection. 

 

Cost me $110 to get my head set up to accept screw in studs and ground flat.Another $80 to accept the larger clevo springs???    

 

Wazzys guide plates are around $110 posted.

[PRO250 1,506]

One of my clevos has 562 on the exhaust and it ran stock rockers for years I upgraded it to rollers cause it would bite the tip of the rocker and after 20.000km wore a groove into the tip was me just being tight it was a cheap engine it did not deserve good rockers

if you want a set of yella terra bolt on adjustables for a clevo PM me I have a set in the shed $350 if you want them. all my engines run 7/16 stud rollers now I cant use them   

[gerg 10,871]

Agreed valve train isn't something you skimp on when going for performance but Chestnut has a very mild cam and (assumedly) stockish valve springs. Probably like myself, he's looking for a sensible upgrade from the stamped steel stockers.

[broken-wheel 659]

I have had Wazzy's 3/8th one's with Trend 3/8th pushrods on my engine for years. Less weight than stock as it's pushing a solid roller lifter not a hyd or solid flat tappet unit and there's less deflection. 

 

Cost me $110 to get my head set up to accept screw in studs and ground flat.Another $80 to accept the larger clevo springs???    

 

Wazzys guide plates are around $110 posted.

clevo springs? did they machine spring pad locators? i'm thinking of getting locators machined in as the shims have fret wear

110 is reasonable for machining work as it's one single head, few passes to make them flat then move it to another machine to drill the holes and chase them etc. less than 1 hour work

[broken-wheel 659]

Agreed valve train isn't something you skimp on when going for performance but Chestnut has a very mild cam and (assumedly) stockish valve springs. Probably like myself, he's looking for a sensible upgrade from the stamped steel stockers.

should never use the stock springs .... all they are good for is rev limiting 

[gerg 10,871]

That and pushrods... Bent one already, probably done it again too.

[CHESTNUTXE 7,311]

The yella terra bolt ons will be fine for mild performance with a roller or flat tappet hyd cam of around 224 deg at 50thou ,a cam this size starts to wake an engine up.

[slydog 7,873]

The yella terra bolt ons will be fine for mild performance with a roller or flat tappet hyd cam of around 224 deg at 50thou ,a cam this size starts to wake an engine up.

 

A roller cam takes A L O T bigger spring than a flat tappet.They need control to put the valve back on the seat even at small cam specs such as 224.

[CHESTNUTXE 7,311]

I have read there are limitations to flat tappet lift,like very steep lobes tend to dig in after a while ,so i was thinking around 530-550 lift max for a hyd flat,when i upgrade from the small one im running atm.Also price is good cam and lifters,but go roller and price goes way-up.

[broken-wheel 659]

550 lift on a hyd? have you actually tried it? 520 lift imho is max for  hyd cam before you move to a solid, stop reading the brochure, the ramp rate for a .550 hyd is shit, same cam in solid with .530 will make more

[CHESTNUTXE 7,311]

last engine i had 562 inlet 588 ex hyd and that was about the biggest i could find and it got eaten in 8000km

[broken-wheel 659]

i used the CT142-637 cam( .614 lift) for about 5000km and had no issues with wear apart from the cam actually snapping from the electric water pump coming through the block, was hardly any wear on it

 

that was with crower EDM solid lifters and Mobil1 Racing oil, trend small push rods and roller rockers

 

if you get bad wear you have probably run in the cam wrongly?! or use oil not suited to the cam you are running, I always use the Mobil1 Racing oil, illegal on the street (apparently) but made for solid engines with high wear so for a weekender it's perfect, or maybe you got a shit core for the cam? did you measure the lifter bore? were all lobes presenting abnormal wear?

 

normally the edge of the lifter should never touch the cam, the lifters are not 100% straight so hey can actually spin, would be interesting to look at the lifter wear on the lifter itself but my guess is the run in procedure for the cam wasn't quite there or up to the task

[slydog 7,873]

I have read there are limitations to flat tappet lift,like very steep lobes tend to dig in after a while ,so i was thinking around 530-550 lift max for a hyd flat,when i upgrade from the small one im running atm.Also price is good cam and lifters,but go roller and price goes way-up.

 

Nascar use flat tappet cams with around 825-850th lift.They don't dig in.The only limit is your back pocket for set up. Use big lift you use a lifter with a wider footprint and more curve on the camshaft to promote rotation of the lifter. 

 

Your cam is only splash fed so EDM lifters are needed and can still fail but any real lift means solid or roller cam. 

[broken-wheel 659]

true about the splash fed, with a windage tray installed the cam gets fuck all lubrication for the lifters since the EDM is a good idea, specially if you can afford the solids in tool steel