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Panko

Issues with EFi crossy

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one of My later model utes had 120psi on all 6 cyls, ran perfect.. didnt use much oil but did lack some torque.
My thoughts would still be electrical UNLESS, its wiped a cam lobe.. common for efi cams back in the day from what i had heard..even then, the fact its intermittent makes me believe its leads. cap etc

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Yeah Dave im not saying your wrong, but i just figure if it was down to the comp, wouldnt play up all the time?

 

I guess if im going to throw a new engine in it, i might as well limp this one along until i can put my turbo engine together for it. And i have to way up my part of the cost of getting the xe turbo wagon back on the road, as to whether i keep mine n/a and cheaper to put a new engine in, or sell on or strip the xe so i can afford to turbocharge mine.

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I have always found no.1 to be down compared to the others, especially on worn motors. I put this down to no.1 being near the water pump and having the greatest liquid around it.

 

Those compression figures are far from happy. My book says 160-180 as serviceable. I would think that engine is not really all that happy if those figures are correct and it may just be a case of the old eec4 not being able to cope with the out of spec readings it's getting. Particularly if this problem has a got worse over time (wear).

 

I have learnt not to trust the ks as a guide to wear as I just pulled out a stock engine with 115000ks on the clock and it was disgusting.

 

If it were me and the funds were tight I'd be finding a good low k donor. Home hone, fresh rings and bearings and your away. Good clean out as your going and you should be sweet for a decent amount of ks if you keep the service up to it.

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My Ford workshop manual says compression should be 145psi (1,000kpa) at max cranking speed.

 

BUT,

I still agree with Panko, in that if it was compression it would be a constant issue, as opposed to random missing.

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Dave, I'm not throwing your offer in the bin, because your offer on that engine is tempting. but just not yet, my priority for now is to get the diff built and fitted, because although my engine is tired, the diff is whats making the car a real bitch to drive. 

 

i do want to try one more thing tomorrow regarding the engine. I discovered this morning watching closely, the issue with it playing up when its warming up, seems to start the moment the thermostat opens for the first time. the reason i picked this? the temp gauge goes up to normal, then basically as soon as it starts shitting itself, the team gauges drops back down, and the base idle spikes for a couple of minutes until the missing goes away and its all back to normal. 

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Haha now you have me thinking about it. Im sure the ISC was working ok when i tested it :( ok when i finish my coffee ill go try it haha.

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