really bad takeoff in 1st gear.

[slydog 7,873]

But its not running so you have to anyway.Delete the module,wire it as above and the only thing to stop it would be a dead sensor.

[Mustardxf 29]

Im borrowing a module to see if it is the module, if not Ill pull it out 

[Banno 479]

Your call but Slydog right. Delete the module out the equation and one less thing to worry about that stops working making the distributor more simple

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[PRO250 1,506]

link to that thread again with the pictures of setup im about to do this to the white car

[slydog 7,873]

Post 71 is all thats needed Dave.

[PRO250 1,506]

But im a nuffy and need pictures and detailed diagrams and advice on how to hold my toung

this will work with a MSD BTM yeah?

[slydog 7,873]

Nothing is different bar trigger wire colour from unit to unit.Read the instruction manual or pdf online from MSD.

 

It is easy as its written and I do not do pictures.EST dizzy plug will make it look better and be weather proof or just use plugs where the module "would" go.

[slydog 7,873]

This should help you out Dave.Was on the ph last night which is many harder for my fat sausage fingers and smaller screen.Plus I was a tad tired from my 5am finish of beers for Friday night footy !!! Must remember not 18 anymore. 

 

Solid Red to battery.Yes to battery,cos it NEEDS big supply.

 

Solid Black to ground

 

Red to 12v switched 

 

White to trigger/pip from dizzy.Don't use the module ffs please.

 

12 volts switched to middle power plug 

 

ground out the first plug closest to the block on the dizzy.I go direct to AC bracket/bolt hole on block with a solid spacer on it.  

 

Orange to coil+

                      ) on same loom together and ONLY use these wires on coil or it WILL NOT RUN.

Black to coil -  

 

Now for those who want to use module for what ever reason....

 

OK you use 2nd grey unit from top.As it explains the ground,power and pip are ALL THAT IS USED.So this even shows the module IS NOT NEEDED in our case.When they go they go when your miles from anyone who can help. I have yet to have a module delete dizzy fail on me,but I have had TFI module fail and the EST units plain die. But a switch to MSD power and HVC coil with no module and TFI dizzy has been years of fun motoring.

 

 http://www.google.com.au/imgres?imgurl=http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/TFI_5.0_comparison.gif&imgrefurl=http://forums.holley.com/showthread.php?3063-HP-to-Ford-TFI&h=798&w=500&sz=21&tbnid=hK8DyPpGtFnIeM:&tbnh=81&tbnw=51&zoom=1&usg=__tlYbRdgziF1KPDgqxEE9YpbpyAo=&docid=pBUQp9D8IEhFBM&sa=X&ei=5KfKUdmrA8ellAXDqYDYBg&sqi=2&ved=0CDUQ9QEwAw&dur=429

[Mustardxf 29]

Okay converted to three wires and it just keeps back firing through the carb all the time 

[slydog 7,873]

Timings out.Rocker cover and dizzy cap off,number 1 spark plug out looking for true tdc now.Inlet will be opening and exhaust will be closing on number 6cyl as rotor goes past tdc mark on dizzy and thumb over plug hole will have compression pushing against it.

 

If these things are all happening you are on the money.

[Mustardxf 29]

Okay so is the tDC mark on the dizzy the number 1 mark?

cyl 6 is pushing compression as it goes past that mark?

 

[Mustardxf 29]

yewww she's alive now, so much cleaner hen revving 

[slydog 7,873]

180 out ?

[Mustardxf 29]

confused?

[slydog 7,873]

Yes i can see that. How did you solve the issue?

[Mustardxf 29]

Used my brain a little bit, and re read the explanation you wrote a few times.

 

[Mustardxf 29]

but didnt take the rocker cover off.

 

Just took plug 6 and 1 out and used bit of heater hose to blow into the cyl to tell whether the valves were open and closing.

[slydog 7,873]

OK then...now its your turn to explain it to Dave when he asks.

[Mustardxf 29]

Im now capable off doing that now, thanks to you.

cheers for the help though (Y)

[Mustardxf 29]

got a mate to come do the timing on it, he's knows wha he's doing and I don't so I don't question him.

Locked it at 30 then pulled it right back to 14 and that was it. its locked on 14 now and is way better then what is was sits on the brake now.

but is 14 to low or?

[slydog 7,873]

Yes it is...no reason it can't be 28. Remember if it has a cam and some stuff done to it it NEEDS timing to work.I run like 30 odd in mine and mine is locked and a hell of alot more serious with more comp.

 

Why is it set so low ?

[Mustardxf 29]

not sure her didn't say why, when it was on 30 it was idling at about 2200rpm and the idle screw was right out

[slydog 7,873]

Well there's a carb issue...2200rpm is far from normal. 

[Mustardxf 29]

yeah hence why he backed it down, its still close to 1000rpm.

he said something about a adjustment on the secondary shaft so Ill look at that tomorrow, ill just leave it on 14 for the time being now that is does drive  and get a exhaust and take it to get dyne tuned.

[gerg 10,871]

Sounds like your secondaries are open too much.

 

Both idle stops should be initially adjusted with the carby removed and flipped over (catch the fuel first).

 

Adjust the primary idle stop so that you can see about 0.5mm of transfer slot. It is also 0.5mm wide so the transfer slot showing should look like a tiny square.

 

The secondary is a pain to set up as the screw is only reached from underneath, meaning you need to remove the carby every time you have to touch it. I'd set up a vac sec carby so that the secondary plates are just a bee's dick off bottoming out in the bores. If you try and adjust them out to show the t-slot as well, the idle will be too high.

 

I've done a bit of a dodgy on mine as that sec idle screw is seized and won't turn. I had to bend the little tab that the screw pushes on in order to get the idle right.

 

Whenever you adjust the secondary idle, you need to remove the mechanical linkage between primary and secondary shafts, and bend it with some big pliers and refit it so that the secondaries are forced shut firmly by the primaries when returning to idle. If you leave this loose, the idle can hang up because the secondaries are slightly stuck open. Remember they only have the diaphragm spring to keep them shut besides this linkage.

 

When it's all adjusted up correctly, you should have plenty of primary idle adjustment left, enough to run 30 deg of timing at idle and still be able to kill the engine by backing off the idle screw. 2200 rpm is ridiculous no matter what timing you're running.