slydog 7,873 Posted August 1, 2015 But its not running so you have to anyway.Delete the module,wire it as above and the only thing to stop it would be a dead sensor. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mustardxf 29 Posted August 1, 2015 Im borrowing a module to see if it is the module, if not Ill pull it out Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Banno 479 Posted August 1, 2015 Your call but Slydog right. Delete the module out the equation and one less thing to worry about that stops working making the distributor more simple Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
PRO250 1,506 Posted August 1, 2015 link to that thread again with the pictures of setup im about to do this to the white car Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
slydog 7,873 Posted August 1, 2015 Post 71 is all thats needed Dave. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
PRO250 1,506 Posted August 1, 2015 But im a nuffy and need pictures and detailed diagrams and advice on how to hold my toungthis will work with a MSD BTM yeah? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
slydog 7,873 Posted August 1, 2015 Nothing is different bar trigger wire colour from unit to unit.Read the instruction manual or pdf online from MSD. It is easy as its written and I do not do pictures.EST dizzy plug will make it look better and be weather proof or just use plugs where the module "would" go. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
slydog 7,873 Posted August 1, 2015 This should help you out Dave.Was on the ph last night which is many harder for my fat sausage fingers and smaller screen.Plus I was a tad tired from my 5am finish of beers for Friday night footy !!! Must remember not 18 anymore. Solid Red to battery.Yes to battery,cos it NEEDS big supply. Solid Black to ground Red to 12v switched White to trigger/pip from dizzy.Don't use the module ffs please. 12 volts switched to middle power plug ground out the first plug closest to the block on the dizzy.I go direct to AC bracket/bolt hole on block with a solid spacer on it. Orange to coil+ ) on same loom together and ONLY use these wires on coil or it WILL NOT RUN. Black to coil - Now for those who want to use module for what ever reason.... OK you use 2nd grey unit from top.As it explains the ground,power and pip are ALL THAT IS USED.So this even shows the module IS NOT NEEDED in our case.When they go they go when your miles from anyone who can help. I have yet to have a module delete dizzy fail on me,but I have had TFI module fail and the EST units plain die. But a switch to MSD power and HVC coil with no module and TFI dizzy has been years of fun motoring. http://www.google.com.au/imgres?imgurl=http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/TFI_5.0_comparison.gif&imgrefurl=http://forums.holley.com/showthread.php?3063-HP-to-Ford-TFI&h=798&w=500&sz=21&tbnid=hK8DyPpGtFnIeM:&tbnh=81&tbnw=51&zoom=1&usg=__tlYbRdgziF1KPDgqxEE9YpbpyAo=&docid=pBUQp9D8IEhFBM&sa=X&ei=5KfKUdmrA8ellAXDqYDYBg&sqi=2&ved=0CDUQ9QEwAw&dur=429 1 gerg reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mustardxf 29 Posted August 2, 2015 Okay converted to three wires and it just keeps back firing through the carb all the time Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
slydog 7,873 Posted August 2, 2015 Timings out.Rocker cover and dizzy cap off,number 1 spark plug out looking for true tdc now.Inlet will be opening and exhaust will be closing on number 6cyl as rotor goes past tdc mark on dizzy and thumb over plug hole will have compression pushing against it. If these things are all happening you are on the money. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mustardxf 29 Posted August 2, 2015 Okay so is the tDC mark on the dizzy the number 1 mark?cyl 6 is pushing compression as it goes past that mark? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mustardxf 29 Posted August 2, 2015 yewww she's alive now, so much cleaner hen revving Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
slydog 7,873 Posted August 2, 2015 Yes i can see that. How did you solve the issue? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mustardxf 29 Posted August 2, 2015 Used my brain a little bit, and re read the explanation you wrote a few times. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mustardxf 29 Posted August 2, 2015 but didnt take the rocker cover off. Just took plug 6 and 1 out and used bit of heater hose to blow into the cyl to tell whether the valves were open and closing. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
slydog 7,873 Posted August 2, 2015 OK then...now its your turn to explain it to Dave when he asks. 4 dougie77, MNTL.XD, Nath and 1 other reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mustardxf 29 Posted August 2, 2015 Im now capable off doing that now, thanks to you.cheers for the help though (Y) 1 slydog reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mustardxf 29 Posted August 3, 2015 got a mate to come do the timing on it, he's knows wha he's doing and I don't so I don't question him.Locked it at 30 then pulled it right back to 14 and that was it. its locked on 14 now and is way better then what is was sits on the brake now.but is 14 to low or? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
slydog 7,873 Posted August 3, 2015 Yes it is...no reason it can't be 28. Remember if it has a cam and some stuff done to it it NEEDS timing to work.I run like 30 odd in mine and mine is locked and a hell of alot more serious with more comp. Why is it set so low ? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mustardxf 29 Posted August 3, 2015 not sure her didn't say why, when it was on 30 it was idling at about 2200rpm and the idle screw was right out Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
slydog 7,873 Posted August 3, 2015 Well there's a carb issue...2200rpm is far from normal. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mustardxf 29 Posted August 3, 2015 yeah hence why he backed it down, its still close to 1000rpm.he said something about a adjustment on the secondary shaft so Ill look at that tomorrow, ill just leave it on 14 for the time being now that is does drive and get a exhaust and take it to get dyne tuned. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gerg 10,871 Posted August 3, 2015 Sounds like your secondaries are open too much. Both idle stops should be initially adjusted with the carby removed and flipped over (catch the fuel first). Adjust the primary idle stop so that you can see about 0.5mm of transfer slot. It is also 0.5mm wide so the transfer slot showing should look like a tiny square. The secondary is a pain to set up as the screw is only reached from underneath, meaning you need to remove the carby every time you have to touch it. I'd set up a vac sec carby so that the secondary plates are just a bee's dick off bottoming out in the bores. If you try and adjust them out to show the t-slot as well, the idle will be too high. I've done a bit of a dodgy on mine as that sec idle screw is seized and won't turn. I had to bend the little tab that the screw pushes on in order to get the idle right. Whenever you adjust the secondary idle, you need to remove the mechanical linkage between primary and secondary shafts, and bend it with some big pliers and refit it so that the secondaries are forced shut firmly by the primaries when returning to idle. If you leave this loose, the idle can hang up because the secondaries are slightly stuck open. Remember they only have the diaphragm spring to keep them shut besides this linkage. When it's all adjusted up correctly, you should have plenty of primary idle adjustment left, enough to run 30 deg of timing at idle and still be able to kill the engine by backing off the idle screw. 2200 rpm is ridiculous no matter what timing you're running. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites