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chain rattle?

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Ok I have a question for you all :) my 351 Cleveland has a rattle sounds metal whilst its driving when in neutral and you rev it perfectly fine. It does not do it all the time I was wondering if it could be the timing chain becoming loose I once had a magna that ended up being this. Also I may as well ask since im already asking when you change gears and let out the clutch there is a clunk coming from the tail shaft not all the time and sometimes when you let off acclerator it will and sometimes it will when you accelerate a little now I have ruled out the centre bearing and another ford enthusiast said it may be a uni joint. In saying that it does sound to be coming from after the centre bearing towards the diff so maybe the rear uni joint I was just curious if it could be that? Thanks so much for any help. Wayne

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in what car? falcons dont run a centre bearing on the tailshaft(well,not xseries)

the control arm bushes will give a clunk in a sedan when buggered

 

uni joint clunk is possible, fix asap if so..

diff back lash is likely, if so, depends what caused it? peg leg burnouts =its probably going to die soon.. wear= fine for hunred thousand kms if kind to it.

 

are you sure its not pinging for the rattle? what fuel are you using? 91 ron is crap, if you try at least 95 or better 98 and it goes away i'd say its pinging. (also caused by timing too far advanced,, but better fuel is the real answer)

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I'm calling diff centre backlash for the clunk, clutch throw-out bearing for the rattle.

that would go away in neutral? or clutch pressed down?

not sure but i think thats what is rattling on my diesel van and only makes noise in neutral with foot off the clutch(goes away when pressed)

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Clutch rattle happens with foot off clutch and mostly at idle. Neutral or in gear. Disappears as soon as pedal is pushed.

 

Gear chatter in gearbox can also give that noise but happens at idle when in neutral and gearbox is warmed up. Does not happen when accelerating/decelerating or rpm is increased.

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Ok i should have explained its in my 1978 f100 and yeah i will admit i have never heard the noise b4 not until i got the fuel running as before it was only running on lpg and yep 91 octane i tried supposed to be 98 and i didnt even see the forghtnight out before the tank was empty but 91 with valve saver i got more kms? So i didnt understand that at all. Lol and yeah diff back lash how do you fix that? And no never done burnouts in it nor previous owner who had owned since new. So when acclerating at around 80 plus kms you drop foot you can hear the chattering but wase up a little and not there. Runs perfectly fine other than that timing is spot on i got a mechanic to do it and ive checked myself with a timing light if you advance it a little it dissapears altogether but you retard it and its there constantly.

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i dont even run 91 fuel in my mower..  it should be worse when advanced, the dizzy rotation direction may be confusing you.

you could try 91 with an octane booster product but yeah, i believe its pinging.

 

diff backlash = rebuild(no change from $1000 at min i would say)

you can probably dial the backlash out with adjustment, but then it may whine..

 

being an F100 its a truck.. clunks etc would be expected pretty much

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Yeah the rotation must be confusing me lol and the backlash in the diff will have to wait awhile as I dont have that kind of coin :( its not constant and I treat it gentle so it can wait in my opinion. As for the pinging I will drive this tank empty and try again with sum 98 octane and see if it makes any difference. I will get back to you when ive put fresh fuel in. Thanks guys you have given me sum good info to go off.

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An update on the clunk at least i had found where the centre bearing the uni joint just behind it towards the diff has movement so i know thats going but where the tailshaft joins the yolk from the small shaft coming from the gear box has a screw fitting that loosen right off im asuming for getting these 2 apart? But it was loose so i tightned it right up it has taken a lot of the movement from the unijoint. But was wondering if that would cause any damage? I would assume it would beed to be tight. The clunk has gone quite a bit i heard it once today and it didnt sound the same it sounded deeper and not as long if that makes sence? Lol

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Ok an update on this I finally found sum spare time today an changed the uni joint so far so good . There is no clunk. The old one the seals were gone so that obviously wasn't good the grease i was putting into it was not getting into the caps as they still had the needle bearings but what little grease was in them looked like dry mud.

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