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XFute-1JZsoarer

Borgy 5 speed (not T5)

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My ute has a t5 and a 3.23 diff, they work great together IMO, good take off speed when I want it, and nice low revs at 100/110kms (around the 2,000rpm mark from memory).

A 3.45 would bump that up a bit but wouldn't be too bad i don't imagine.

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Well with the 2.92 and borg warner 35 auto, I'm revving at about 2500 at 100, and it struggles down at lower speeds.

1st gear changes to 2nd almost straight away, 2nd winds out to about 70-75kph, then into 3rd.

Drinks fuel like it has it's own refinery in the tray!

So I thought a 5 speed should help, but now I've been offered a whole XG for about the same $$$ as a T5 conversion costs.

I'm thinking all that lovely torque the 4 litre makes will work well in a lighter XF shell...

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2nd should shift into 3rd way earlier than 70kms (unless you've booted it). My wagon is auto with (I think) 2.92 diff. It shifts into 3rd somewhere between 30-40kms under light throttle, 60-70 under full throttle.

 

I got 500kms out of the 70L tank and that's city driving.

 

But yeah manuals are more fun :P and even better on fuel - got 575km out of the last tank of fuel in my ute. Not sure on clutch kit. I think they're different.

 

Look on ebay and compare the part numbers of a kit for a 4.1 XF 5spd and a XG 4.0 5spd.

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Thanks Thom for clearing that up, I keep getting mixed responses to that question.

Is it true that I should use a T5 throw out bearing, something about proper alignment issues???

Unfortunately I can't take it for a quick test drive, as the fella I'm buyin it off has pulled the dizzy out of the motor.

The body and interior are stuffed, but it has the dash, electrics and running gear which has less than 170k on them, so I'm hoping they're fine still.

Should I cut out the section where the clutch cable comes through the firewall?

My XF ute is an auto, so I think it's blank there (too wet to go look right now).

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Dude at that price I'd be throwing the money at him straight away! It would be very handy to keep the whole donor ute for parts like wiring loom for the 4lt motor and computer for the motor etc. In the last month I put an xh diff in my xf ute and the 3:23 ratio made it heaps better to drive. It's more responsive and it breaks traction very easy. All you need to do is get an adapter from 3/8 imperial to 10mm metric for the flexible brake line from the body to the diff. Use the handbrake cable from the donor ute as is connects to the disks differently. It joins up the front where the mechanism pulls forward from the lever so make sure you have it all. Still connects to the same lever and mechanism and you'll be fine. I've heard radiator mounts up different on xg at the bottom compared to xf but it's supposed to be easily overcome. Would love to do this conversion one day. Good luck.

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Thanks for the handy info Ando81, and trust me, I can't give it to him any quicker, or I would have already for sure! Lol

Looks like this deal is just getting better!

Fella that's selling it just got a XR6 for his brother, and therefore had to hire a trailer.

So now I'm getting the whole thing delivered (an hour and a half away) for $400 by the look of it.

Can't wait to get stuck in!

Just waiting to chat with anyone that's done this type of swap recently here in Qld and if they had to get it mod plated or anything???

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Well, all didn't go quite exactly to plan, but I must say, I'm pretty happy with my new driveline.

The trailer thing kinda fell through, so yesterday I fired up the old XF and went for an hour and a half drive out to go get this XG gear.

I arrived to see a 90% stripped out XG shell, and all my parts laid out ready to load. I ended up throwing old mate an extra $50 for his efforts, so all up I got it all for $350 (plus about $40 in fuel). Bargain I reckon!

Still going to go back to grab the fuel lines, trans hump, one of the swaybar links, and maybe the front suspension (didn't have the right tools, and I didn't take any cause I needed the space)

Everything looks good, apart from being caked in reddish brown dirt and oil from a leaky rocker cover.

Only just fit everything into the ute, diff, motor & box (still joined), tailshaft, swaybar, fuel tank, wiring looms, dash & steering column, radiator & shroud, coolant tank, power steering box, ECU... You get the idea! Lol

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Mate here's an outside-of-the-box idea... How about freshening up the 4.0 and building it for gas? It will simplify the wiring heaps and no need for all the fuel lines, etc. All you need to feed the engine is fuel and spark, maybe shove an MSD Programmable in to get the spark curve right. Of course, all depends on how available LPG is near you.

 

Good score on that car... You really had a win there. Factury ute LSDs were 28 spline i'm sure, so that's paid for itself already. All the little brackets, screws and wires that go with a conversion are right there for you.

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That is a lsd diff mate. There should be a sticker on the right hand side axle tube that tells you the ratio. Have a look from the rear between the diff centre and the brake disc. Most likely be 3:23 or 3:27. I think xr6 diffs were 3:45 ratio. Great score on the parts too

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Thanks bud, I vaguely remember having to do that on a (head down in shame) Honda forum now that you mentioned it...

I'm stoked about the LSD, I stopped in at the storage shed and spun one of the axles to see if they both spun together (which they did

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I do like the LPG idea, but as you said, gas isnt readily available everywhere, and being out in the sticks, petrol stations can be few and far between.

And I'm kinda on a tight budget, I've got a few leftover bits from a 3.9 motor (head bolts, head gasket kit, valve stem seals and what not, so I was thinking of pulling the head for a gasket and bolt swap, and just a general going over (filters, gaskets, maybe new water pump and that while it's out) as it is only 168k on it and just swap the entire fuel setup, looms, dash, steering column... The lot pretty much, get it running and legal (I assume a mod plate will be needed here in Qld), and then maybe look towards a low boost turbo setup.

Maybe (when my budget gets better) get a AU gas motor and build that up for a big turbo setup later down the track.

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Yeah I know they're alright, but for all the shit I copped over it, I can't really say I was a proud Honda driver.

But then it was just a 90 Civic hatch (ED6) twin carb SOHC 1.5 (D15B4 engine) and 5 speed, went hard for what it was, and handled like a little club racer...

I knew about there help in developing the crossy head, kinda how Yamaha did the head on my 1JZ motor.

(I have a bit of a soft spot for Jap cars)

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I know what you mean. 

 

My Honda is a 89 Concerto with a D16Z2 (16V, SOHC, PGM-FI), 5spd man. It was my first car so I'll always have a soft spot for it, but even so, the body has 410,000kms on it and the front suspension is only just needing replacement, pity x series front suspension wasn't that robust!

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The xf diffs had a tag on the back of the housing but later model ones had no tag, just the axle tube sticker. If you jack up the car to spin the wheels and count the tailshaft revolutions. Pretty sure it's say 3.23 turns of the shaft to a full rotation of the wheel.

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