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dizzy616

4.0l dizzy recomendations

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i redone the dizzy. original dizzy a part of the lip was getting ground by the cog in the engine block. so took a different dizzy into a ignition shop. got the lip machined and the gear put in the right spot and no problems so far.

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Do you have any pictures of the dizzy and what was done. I like this idea and having it run straight gas would consider this for one of my cars if it works well. Keep us posted on the outcome. Cheers

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nah its in the car sorry. got no pictures and got a bloody log manifold. hahha it gos bloody well pretty good on gas. economy ranging from 13-14l per 100k's with the 5 spd. im loving the conversion now. but yeh if you take your dizzy to ignition torque in bayswater. he knows what to do. i got my dizzy reco'd basicly. and the lip machined and cog put in right spot for 120. next day pick up. thing works a dream. after the discovery of the lip grinding and metal shavings. and gazza's story. i say it isn't something you want to stuff up. id prefer to see comparison of whats been done in person before you tackle it your self. between stock and the modified dizzy. wouldn't be much to see on picture. just look like a 4.0l cog turned upside down on a xf dizzy.
im all in for having a go yourself. but yeh its something thats a fine line between perfect and broke. dont want to put the dizzy in do a trip around the block. and get back and find shavings all through your sump.
the only reason i found out so early. was because i stuffed up the timing and had to move the dizzy again

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Heya Dizzy =) , Just turning a gear over is not the right way to do it, maybe it works, but how well.... and for how long?

 

http://www.aussiespeedshop.com/product/as0164-ignition-distributor-ea-to-au-ford-conversion/

 

Thats the dizzy ya need, exxy yes......... even Aussie speed write that doing the conversion is not as easy as replacing the gear or flipping it.

By the time ya piss fart around with yours and it stuffs up on ya a few times, that price will look better and better.

 

Jack.

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Hey guys, do all the 4L dizzys sit in roughly the same position, as my motor had the dizzy pulled before I bought it, so I'm starting from scratch.

The manual only tells you how to pull and install the same dizzy, not what to do when you install a new one.

I know I need to turn the crank to TDC on the compression stroke, but I'm not sure what mark to put the rotor button on (start/finish). And if the TFI module sits in the same general position when you drop the dizzy in the hole.

Hope I explained that right.

Thanks in advance.

Jay.

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outback jack. yes i was going to save for the aussiespeed one. since standard ford ones dont fit under their manifold. but had not had any issues with the dizzy i have. this is why i was saying get them done properly. and pointed out a dude that knew how to do it properly. was not stating that it was just a easy turn of the gear and your done.
and now i have been running it for a while. and no shavings or anything so far.
xfute. i do not know with that start to finish stuff. seen it on a couple dizzy's. i just put it on tdc and have the rotor button pointing to no 1 spark lead. no issues

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Cool dizzy, good to hear. Yeah I learnt the hard way on another car, had my dizzy 'regraphed' once in Perth. 2 days later the motor was rooted, chewed all the drive up and spat it into the sump. Was a costly excercise.

 

Oh, xfute. Make sure ya on TDC, on the compression stroke (rocker arms both on the rock) if it's been out before ya got it.

Then get ya dizzy, set the dizzy rotor to start in dizzy and as ya drop it in, as the gears will make it spin to finish because they are cut on an angle.

You also can't do the base timing after without putting the ECU into base timing mode, if you try it will always be out.

 

Jack.

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Thanks guys, I knew about putting the ECU into timing mode to set it, and putting it at TDC on the compression stroke, but the manual goes on about scribing a mark on the dizzy housing and block so you know where it sits in the block.

But the TFI will only fit in a certain position without hitting anything else, so I guess I can copy the positioning off another motor.

I wasn't sure if pointing the rotor at number 1 spark lead was still the right way to set it, but sounds to be the same thing as the start/finish method.

Awesome help as always guys, cheers

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Here ya go mate, in me rebuild thread there is a good explanation.

http://www.ozfalcon.com.au/index.php?/topic/2502-outback-jacks-xg-outback-ute-build/

 

The picture of the dizzy is pretty much where the dizzy and module will sit once inserted properly. I did mine a lil while back, chucked in a new module and dizzy.

Bosch of course. I f ya notice ya have a cheap arse dizzy....... ditch it and get a bosch one.... heaps better.

Best of luck.

 

Jack.

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Thanks Jack, that's a pretty detailed installation post you put up, great help mate.

I'm using the Bosch dizzy that was in the motor, as it only has 168,000km on it and looks to be in good condition still.

The previous owner pulled it out to put it in another motor and gave up when it became apparent that he didn't know what he was doing.

So he put it back in the hole to plug the hole up, but never installed it properly.

I might put an order in for a new Bosch dizzy to keep as a spare if this one claps out, should be easy to swap over once I've put one in myself.

Appreciate you taking the time to help mate.

Thanks heaps.

 

Jay.

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