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scottly

reverse cowl to steel bonnet advise needed????

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hey guys,

 

I will be fitting a 4 inch fibreglass reverse cowl to my ford xd steel bonnet in the next couple of weeks. just have a few questions if any one has done this or have any experience.

 

this is what Im unsure on

 

do i leave the paint as is on the bonnet where the cowl sticks to it or skuff it ? 

 

do i use screws to hold it in place? and do they stay in there or do you remove them?

 

can i cut more than just the air cleaner hole out of the bonnet or will that make it to week?

 

any recommendations would be great or pictures or links i might go down to the body shop and see what they say they probably wont tell me lol

 

 

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My mate put a glass bulge in his bonnet, the hole was cut undersize and a flange mad the glass' and resin were laid down on the bonnet the bulge was fitted and Screwed then fibreglassed and bogged then sanded smooth been on the car for 3 years and hasn't cracked yqygyseg.jpg 3aqedeqy.jpg 8azy4esy.jpg eheze2yj.jpg

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My mate put a glass bulge in his bonnet, the hole was cut undersize and a flange mad the glass' and resin were laid down on the bonnet the bulge was fitted and Screwed then fibreglassed and bogged then sanded smooth been on the car for 3 years and hasn't cracked yqygyseg.jpg 3aqedeqy.jpg 8azy4esy.jpg eheze2yj.jpg

thanks for the reply mate looks nice don't think ive seen any thing like that done before

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Ring Alpha and talk to them, they are a great source of advice.

and they've done some good work

http://www.motorsportfibreglass.com.au/

thanks for the reply mate yeah I probably should call them I don't think they would be to impressed with me trying to get there knowledge out of them that makes them there money and with out a sale.

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I've done a few now and i'm not a real fan of the idea. The thing I don't like about them is how much fibreglass moves around with heat cycles as opposed to the steel that doesn't move that it is attached to.I've tried a few different ways to do em. The last one I did the bonnet was bare metalled then epoxied. I used a two part panel bond and clamped it over night with vice grips. Both the mating surfaces were keyed up and cleaned with acetone before being stuck down. Then used fibre glass filler to rough in from scoop to bonnet and finish off with normal filler.

Others will have their way of doing them and I'm keen to hear other options.

Regardless of what method you go with you somehow need to make sure moisture can't work its way through from the underside of the scoop into filler or its going to turn to shit real quick. That's why I went the 2 part panel bond cause it seals off the bog. Its also sandable so that when you knock down where the scoop will blend into the bonnet its still hard so you can put filler over as normal and not rubbery like sikaflex for example.

 

Kind of hard to describe in words hope that helps a bit.LOL

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ive always liked the idea of cutting along the sides and rear of the standard raise section of the bonnet skin and lifting it up at the rear and grafting in 2 to 3" of steel to form the scoop leaving the rear open.

 

This way the ribs could be left in tact, keeping it legal, the bonnet would look modified and yet remain semi stock with clearance for a high rise manifold.

 

This would be a good project for Revhead to attempt and perfect!

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Have given this some thought in the past also. The sides wouldn't be that much of an issue but finishing off the back edge of it would take some work.

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Hey Blu XE, what was the epoxy panel bond you used?? im about to put a cobra scoop on my xc and am a lil concerned about putting it directly onto baremetal with fibreglass and then bog over it. hopefully i can find clamps big enough to hold the scoop down as opposed to a board with some bricks on it LOL.

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