popem

new pump will have fan thread on it already

I will add that if you want a really good setup put ARP rod bolts on standard rods and use the piston that best suits your head, camshaft and compression ratio

Yeah mate you can't mix hydraulic and solid parts. So solid lifters only for solid camshaft but thing like valve springs are universal so to speak as they don't care what camshaft you have they only care the size of the camshaft as you have to match the valve spring to the cam size. Again this is very basic description but the thing that keeps getting repeated which is really important is everything must match each other otherwise you are just wasting your time and money.
With Hydraulic camshafts there are 2 types of lifters to choose from, 1 is standard hydraulic lifter which is for just about every hydraulic camshaft. The 2nd one is called anti pump up which is only needed for the higher end of the hydraulic camshaft range and to be using anti pump up lifters you need to be changing carby and ignition and revving the engine at lot more than standard.
 
Easiest way to decide on what camshaft you buy is:
Are you going to change carby to a bigger one?
Are you going to upgrade to a better ignition?
Are you putting extractor and bigger than standard exhaust on the car?
Is the car Auto or manual? This is important as you are limited more by an Auto than a manual before you have to start upgrading parts in the gearbox
What is the diff ratio of the car? This matters because as you can see on camshaft manufactures websites some camshafts require certain diff gearing to make the camshaft work best.
And the 2 most important questions are
What is the car to be used for?
How much money do you have to spend in the next 6 months on the car? And that's not what you want to spend but what do you actually have to spend on the car

To me the top ring looks to fit a c spanner for adjusting. All coilovers Ive dealt with(on quad bikes) the top nut is the adjuster and the lower nut is the locking nut.

A very basic way to think of the numbers on the camshaft is look at the number in the @50thou.
For a crossflow:
Anything under 200 is pretty much the same as standard
From 200 to 210 is mild performance but still using all standard equipment
From 210 to 220 is moderate performance with the higher end of this group needing some performance parts installed with the camshaft.
From 220 up is still moderate performance but this will require changing of parts like diff gears, torque converters as well as performance parts like valve spring etc.
 
Now these are very basic guides and camshafts are quite complicated when it comes to lobe seperation angles and duration and lift and how it all works together. So if you go off the above list and choose the range that will give you the performance your after then you can ring a camshaft manufacturer and they will tell you what parts will be needed to go with the camshaft you choose.

List of good cams:
 
For use with std. EFI ECU, would be good in any otherwise std x-series: Camtech ***-509
 
Should be std. and my pick if you don't plan on changing much else: Camtech ***-503B Tighe 422A
 
Max. recommended for 2.77 gears with stock converter (needs springs), I think these actually need minimum 2.92 diff gears (max. 3.27). Tighe 725 (could use the crow 14892, but it is small for a 280deg. adv. cam)
 
For details see the Camtech and Tighe’s websites.
 
http://www.camtechca..._xflow_hyd.html http://www.tighecams.com.au/cars.htm

well i have made a quick drawing using the pics to make it explainable if you take it into repco or bursons etc..
might be half the reason the cheapshit ones wear out faster even?
 
i wonder if the aftermarket control arms rectify this issue, the shelby drop is meant to help i think too?
 

6 individual pipes, into 3 individual pipes, into 1 individual pipe. At least that's how I've always understood it.