Panko

Well I have the radiator out of the car again, pressure tested, and found the leak. 
The strange part is, that after a few minutes of being under pressure with the pressure tester on, it stopped leaking, and began to hold constant pressure. 
 
So I will pressure test again and go from there. I think unfortunately it will need to be recored. 
 
In other news, I have the car booked in for its exhaust to be made in a couple weeks. 
 
And I also have all the exterior lighting working, and the boot interior light. 
 
The restored and LED retrofitted reverse lights should hopefully be more than bright enough. 
 


The NOS H4 Hella headlights are in and working well. I fitted the globes that came with them, still brand new in their boxes. Old Philips 55/60w globes, that are god knows how old, but new in box. Wonder how long they’ll last. 
 

 

 
Boot light is working also. 
 

Well I have the radiator out of the car again, pressure tested, and found the leak. 
The strange part is, that after a few minutes of being under pressure with the pressure tester on, it stopped leaking, and began to hold constant pressure. 
 
So I will pressure test again and go from there. I think unfortunately it will need to be recored. 
 
In other news, I have the car booked in for its exhaust to be made in a couple weeks. 
 
And I also have all the exterior lighting working, and the boot interior light. 
 
The restored and LED retrofitted reverse lights should hopefully be more than bright enough. 
 


The NOS H4 Hella headlights are in and working well. I fitted the globes that came with them, still brand new in their boxes. Old Philips 55/60w globes, that are god knows how old, but new in box. Wonder how long they’ll last. 
 

 

 
Boot light is working also. 
 

Well I have the radiator out of the car again, pressure tested, and found the leak. 
The strange part is, that after a few minutes of being under pressure with the pressure tester on, it stopped leaking, and began to hold constant pressure. 
 
So I will pressure test again and go from there. I think unfortunately it will need to be recored. 
 
In other news, I have the car booked in for its exhaust to be made in a couple weeks. 
 
And I also have all the exterior lighting working, and the boot interior light. 
 
The restored and LED retrofitted reverse lights should hopefully be more than bright enough. 
 


The NOS H4 Hella headlights are in and working well. I fitted the globes that came with them, still brand new in their boxes. Old Philips 55/60w globes, that are god knows how old, but new in box. Wonder how long they’ll last. 
 

 

 
Boot light is working also. 
 

Well I have the radiator out of the car again, pressure tested, and found the leak. 
The strange part is, that after a few minutes of being under pressure with the pressure tester on, it stopped leaking, and began to hold constant pressure. 
 
So I will pressure test again and go from there. I think unfortunately it will need to be recored. 
 
In other news, I have the car booked in for its exhaust to be made in a couple weeks. 
 
And I also have all the exterior lighting working, and the boot interior light. 
 
The restored and LED retrofitted reverse lights should hopefully be more than bright enough. 
 


The NOS H4 Hella headlights are in and working well. I fitted the globes that came with them, still brand new in their boxes. Old Philips 55/60w globes, that are god knows how old, but new in box. Wonder how long they’ll last. 
 

 

 
Boot light is working also. 
 

I haven’t found where its coming from. 
 
the next step will be to remove the radiator and pressure test it again to try in point the leak. 
 
It must be a decent leak, because its leaking without any pressure in the system. Literally filled it with water, came back a few minutes later and water everywhere 

IT RUNS! 
Thats right, it fired up first go, but did have trouble getting fuel to it to keep it running. *see video below* 
The video below is as I cranked it the first time. 
 
 
Now for the bad news...
The radiator has a major leak. It was fine when I pressure tested it, but I wonder if the pressure test caused a week join to open up  
 

 

 
 
 

IT RUNS! 
Thats right, it fired up first go, but did have trouble getting fuel to it to keep it running. *see video below* 
The video below is as I cranked it the first time. 
 
 
Now for the bad news...
The radiator has a major leak. It was fine when I pressure tested it, but I wonder if the pressure test caused a week join to open up  
 

 

 
 
 

I haven’t found where its coming from. 
 
the next step will be to remove the radiator and pressure test it again to try in point the leak. 
 
It must be a decent leak, because its leaking without any pressure in the system. Literally filled it with water, came back a few minutes later and water everywhere 

Next on the agenda;
The dreaded heater box. 
 

 

 

 
This thing was filthy. 48 years worth of dust, leaves, and rotting foam. 
The core has been replaced, so thats a good sign. I have pressure tested the core and it seems ok, but I am going to do it again today. im not convinced i tested it properly. 
 
Also, someone had used what looks like windscreen sealer to reinstall the lid when it was apart previously 🤦‍♂️ when in actual fact, its meant to be foam to seal it. I have bought all new high density foam, not the open cell shit that rots away, and am currently in the process of resealing it and assembling the heater box. 
 
 
I got a little stuck with this lever for the main vent flap. its pressed onto a spline. I couldn't get the internals of the heater matrix out until that lever, and its flap were removed. 
 

 
Of all things, a $19 tap handle remover from Bunnings worked perfectly at getting that lever off 🤣
 

 
After I got the internals out of the box, the rest of the mess from 48 years of crap was revealed 😬
 

 

 
 
** This is where I am currently up to. The heater box is the last thing I need to do to make the car 100% water tight. 
I also have another radiator for it, second hand but pressure tested ok. its also larger. technically from a Cortina, but they are the same as what was used in Mexicos. So i has a larger top tank, and larger cores. Once the radiator is in, technically I could run the engine. And with the brakes all up and working, when I book it in for the exhaust to be done, it will be great to be able to drive it on and off the trailer instead of winching it. 
 
In between all this major stuff, I have done a lot of little things that I haven't really documented. Ive replaced all the door seals now, rebuilt all the latches on the doors, mirrors are on etc. so from the outside she looks almost complete. 
 
As you would have seen in above photos from inside the car, the wiring is still a mess. its a job I am not looking forward to doing. the inside of the car is another project in itself, to do it to the level I'd find acceptable. There is wiring to sort out, small bits of surface rust, lots of cleaning to do in cavities that aren't easily accessible. I need to clean all these out so I can then cavity wax them and keep them safe from future rust. 
I need to tidy up the wiring, install sound deadening before the carpet goes in, and order and install the new amp and wiring for the stereo, because as much as i love the sound of the weber and the exhaust, on longer drives I need decent music. 
I want to say its not that far off, but it is. My expected finish timeline keeps getting further and further away, so for now I am going to say that if I can drive it out my shed under its own steam, for its first test drive by christmas, it will be the best christmas present ever. It will also mark 3 years since it was written off.  

The heater box is in after a bit of stuffing around, and the cooling system is all hooked up. 
 
I ended up having to add an extra 12mm thick run of neoprene foam to the top of the heater box to seal it against the body of the car. the replacement seal that i bought from the UK, was miles too thin, and when bolted up, there was a decent gap between the heater box and the body of the car. 
 
Heater hoses are all hooked up. 
All the vents tubes are in as well inside the car, so I can start tidying up the wiring under the dash. 
 
Getting close to starting it. 
all thats left is to mount the coil, add water and fuel, and i need some hose for the brake booster and PCV so there are no vac leaks. 
I also know the jetting in the carby is all wrong, because i had it set for the 1300. but i should be able to idle it and run it in. 

I have had the engine running previously, so it will for now 
 

The heater box is in after a bit of stuffing around, and the cooling system is all hooked up. 
 
I ended up having to add an extra 12mm thick run of neoprene foam to the top of the heater box to seal it against the body of the car. the replacement seal that i bought from the UK, was miles too thin, and when bolted up, there was a decent gap between the heater box and the body of the car. 
 
Heater hoses are all hooked up. 
All the vents tubes are in as well inside the car, so I can start tidying up the wiring under the dash. 
 
Getting close to starting it. 
all thats left is to mount the coil, add water and fuel, and i need some hose for the brake booster and PCV so there are no vac leaks. 
I also know the jetting in the carby is all wrong, because i had it set for the 1300. but i should be able to idle it and run it in. 

I have had the engine running previously, so it will for now 
 

The heater box is in after a bit of stuffing around, and the cooling system is all hooked up. 
 
I ended up having to add an extra 12mm thick run of neoprene foam to the top of the heater box to seal it against the body of the car. the replacement seal that i bought from the UK, was miles too thin, and when bolted up, there was a decent gap between the heater box and the body of the car. 
 
Heater hoses are all hooked up. 
All the vents tubes are in as well inside the car, so I can start tidying up the wiring under the dash. 
 
Getting close to starting it. 
all thats left is to mount the coil, add water and fuel, and i need some hose for the brake booster and PCV so there are no vac leaks. 
I also know the jetting in the carby is all wrong, because i had it set for the 1300. but i should be able to idle it and run it in. 

I have had the engine running previously, so it will for now 
 

Update time
 
Reassembling the the heater box, the last thing i had to do was fit the tiny little circlips that hold the main flap shaft in. Well I snapped the second one, and didn't have another. So I went through my R/C stuff, and ive got loads of body clips. so I mangled one and used it to replace the circlip 🤣
 

 
So here is the heater box finished. All new foam. Im pretty sure this thing will work better than it ever has
 
I didn't bother to paint the top lid, because as far as im concerned, now with the new seal once its back in the car it shouldn't leak, shouldn't continue to gather surface rust. plus its not seen. 
 

 

 

 
 
Next up, the radiator 
 
I pressure tested, and painted the bigger radiator, and got it installed this afternoon. looks right at home in there. its definitely big. 
 

 
Ive removed the grill again to do a list of things up front. 
I need to install the other headlight, and wire both of them up, paint and install the horn, and fit the front number plate. I use nut and bolt through the front panel, and once the grill is in, I can't install the number plate. 
 

Update time
 
Reassembling the the heater box, the last thing i had to do was fit the tiny little circlips that hold the main flap shaft in. Well I snapped the second one, and didn't have another. So I went through my R/C stuff, and ive got loads of body clips. so I mangled one and used it to replace the circlip 🤣
 

 
So here is the heater box finished. All new foam. Im pretty sure this thing will work better than it ever has
 
I didn't bother to paint the top lid, because as far as im concerned, now with the new seal once its back in the car it shouldn't leak, shouldn't continue to gather surface rust. plus its not seen. 
 

 

 

 
 
Next up, the radiator 
 
I pressure tested, and painted the bigger radiator, and got it installed this afternoon. looks right at home in there. its definitely big. 
 

 
Ive removed the grill again to do a list of things up front. 
I need to install the other headlight, and wire both of them up, paint and install the horn, and fit the front number plate. I use nut and bolt through the front panel, and once the grill is in, I can't install the number plate. 
 

Next on the agenda;
The dreaded heater box. 
 

 

 

 
This thing was filthy. 48 years worth of dust, leaves, and rotting foam. 
The core has been replaced, so thats a good sign. I have pressure tested the core and it seems ok, but I am going to do it again today. im not convinced i tested it properly. 
 
Also, someone had used what looks like windscreen sealer to reinstall the lid when it was apart previously 🤦‍♂️ when in actual fact, its meant to be foam to seal it. I have bought all new high density foam, not the open cell shit that rots away, and am currently in the process of resealing it and assembling the heater box. 
 
 
I got a little stuck with this lever for the main vent flap. its pressed onto a spline. I couldn't get the internals of the heater matrix out until that lever, and its flap were removed. 
 

 
Of all things, a $19 tap handle remover from Bunnings worked perfectly at getting that lever off 🤣
 

 
After I got the internals out of the box, the rest of the mess from 48 years of crap was revealed 😬
 

 

 
 
** This is where I am currently up to. The heater box is the last thing I need to do to make the car 100% water tight. 
I also have another radiator for it, second hand but pressure tested ok. its also larger. technically from a Cortina, but they are the same as what was used in Mexicos. So i has a larger top tank, and larger cores. Once the radiator is in, technically I could run the engine. And with the brakes all up and working, when I book it in for the exhaust to be done, it will be great to be able to drive it on and off the trailer instead of winching it. 
 
In between all this major stuff, I have done a lot of little things that I haven't really documented. Ive replaced all the door seals now, rebuilt all the latches on the doors, mirrors are on etc. so from the outside she looks almost complete. 
 
As you would have seen in above photos from inside the car, the wiring is still a mess. its a job I am not looking forward to doing. the inside of the car is another project in itself, to do it to the level I'd find acceptable. There is wiring to sort out, small bits of surface rust, lots of cleaning to do in cavities that aren't easily accessible. I need to clean all these out so I can then cavity wax them and keep them safe from future rust. 
I need to tidy up the wiring, install sound deadening before the carpet goes in, and order and install the new amp and wiring for the stereo, because as much as i love the sound of the weber and the exhaust, on longer drives I need decent music. 
I want to say its not that far off, but it is. My expected finish timeline keeps getting further and further away, so for now I am going to say that if I can drive it out my shed under its own steam, for its first test drive by christmas, it will be the best christmas present ever. It will also mark 3 years since it was written off.  

wow, so sorry its been so long between updates....
 
Well here we go. 
 
The bolts I originally used for the shifter were too bulky, and were touching the body, so I fitted smaller round headed bolts, and loosened the gearbox mount and resettled its alignment, which seems to have given more space. 
 

 

 
I then need to sort out the shift gator. This is a steering rack boot, that happens to actually fit together up inside the original interior shift gator. so now the short shifter mechanism and the body are both sealed. 
 

 

 
 
Next was the brakes; 
 

 
I replaced the booster with a new one instead of trying to use mine. 
 

 
Rebuilt master cylinder by myself, was pretty happy with that. And new booster all mated together. 
 

 
All installed. I was wrapped to see that my new brake lines that I made, purely off copying the old ones, fitted perfect first go. 
 

 

 
From there I went onto the wiper mechanism. It was in pretty much perfect condition. I just stripped it, cleaned it, gave the motor and gears a clean and regrease and reassembled. 
 

 

 
Next, I went onto the throttle cable. 
I'd had this vision for ages, to run a throttle cable like Mk 2 1600 Ghias had. The Mk2 1600 Ghia had a 1600 with a factory 32/36 Weber. basically my exact setup. now they also had a unique throttle cable, where it was super short, and came from the firewall and straight to the back of the carby. I have the same setup, including the Mk2 Weber throttle bracket. Problem is, Mk1 and 2 throttle pedals are different, and cable ends are different. I had a custom cable sitting here, suited for a 2L Pinto into Mk1. Basically its a Mk1 pedal, but Mk2 at the carby end. However it was way too long for what I wanted because the carby on a Pinto is on the opposite side to a 1600. 
 
My solution;
I bought a generic cable end and ball from Aeroflow. That gave me the ability to cut the cable down to the length i needed, and set it up how i liked. 
 
Can see the cable end in the below photo. 
 

 
The kit came with a larger ball, so I had to cut the original one off the linkage and the new one was a bolt on arrangement. 
 

 
AND this is the end result 
 

 

 
 
** there is more to come. Still sorting through photos** 
 

Next on the agenda;
The dreaded heater box. 
 

 

 

 
This thing was filthy. 48 years worth of dust, leaves, and rotting foam. 
The core has been replaced, so thats a good sign. I have pressure tested the core and it seems ok, but I am going to do it again today. im not convinced i tested it properly. 
 
Also, someone had used what looks like windscreen sealer to reinstall the lid when it was apart previously 🤦‍♂️ when in actual fact, its meant to be foam to seal it. I have bought all new high density foam, not the open cell shit that rots away, and am currently in the process of resealing it and assembling the heater box. 
 
 
I got a little stuck with this lever for the main vent flap. its pressed onto a spline. I couldn't get the internals of the heater matrix out until that lever, and its flap were removed. 
 

 
Of all things, a $19 tap handle remover from Bunnings worked perfectly at getting that lever off 🤣
 

 
After I got the internals out of the box, the rest of the mess from 48 years of crap was revealed 😬
 

 

 
 
** This is where I am currently up to. The heater box is the last thing I need to do to make the car 100% water tight. 
I also have another radiator for it, second hand but pressure tested ok. its also larger. technically from a Cortina, but they are the same as what was used in Mexicos. So i has a larger top tank, and larger cores. Once the radiator is in, technically I could run the engine. And with the brakes all up and working, when I book it in for the exhaust to be done, it will be great to be able to drive it on and off the trailer instead of winching it. 
 
In between all this major stuff, I have done a lot of little things that I haven't really documented. Ive replaced all the door seals now, rebuilt all the latches on the doors, mirrors are on etc. so from the outside she looks almost complete. 
 
As you would have seen in above photos from inside the car, the wiring is still a mess. its a job I am not looking forward to doing. the inside of the car is another project in itself, to do it to the level I'd find acceptable. There is wiring to sort out, small bits of surface rust, lots of cleaning to do in cavities that aren't easily accessible. I need to clean all these out so I can then cavity wax them and keep them safe from future rust. 
I need to tidy up the wiring, install sound deadening before the carpet goes in, and order and install the new amp and wiring for the stereo, because as much as i love the sound of the weber and the exhaust, on longer drives I need decent music. 
I want to say its not that far off, but it is. My expected finish timeline keeps getting further and further away, so for now I am going to say that if I can drive it out my shed under its own steam, for its first test drive by christmas, it will be the best christmas present ever. It will also mark 3 years since it was written off.  

wow, so sorry its been so long between updates....
 
Well here we go. 
 
The bolts I originally used for the shifter were too bulky, and were touching the body, so I fitted smaller round headed bolts, and loosened the gearbox mount and resettled its alignment, which seems to have given more space. 
 

 

 
I then need to sort out the shift gator. This is a steering rack boot, that happens to actually fit together up inside the original interior shift gator. so now the short shifter mechanism and the body are both sealed. 
 

 

 
 
Next was the brakes; 
 

 
I replaced the booster with a new one instead of trying to use mine. 
 

 
Rebuilt master cylinder by myself, was pretty happy with that. And new booster all mated together. 
 

 
All installed. I was wrapped to see that my new brake lines that I made, purely off copying the old ones, fitted perfect first go. 
 

 

 
From there I went onto the wiper mechanism. It was in pretty much perfect condition. I just stripped it, cleaned it, gave the motor and gears a clean and regrease and reassembled. 
 

 

 
Next, I went onto the throttle cable. 
I'd had this vision for ages, to run a throttle cable like Mk 2 1600 Ghias had. The Mk2 1600 Ghia had a 1600 with a factory 32/36 Weber. basically my exact setup. now they also had a unique throttle cable, where it was super short, and came from the firewall and straight to the back of the carby. I have the same setup, including the Mk2 Weber throttle bracket. Problem is, Mk1 and 2 throttle pedals are different, and cable ends are different. I had a custom cable sitting here, suited for a 2L Pinto into Mk1. Basically its a Mk1 pedal, but Mk2 at the carby end. However it was way too long for what I wanted because the carby on a Pinto is on the opposite side to a 1600. 
 
My solution;
I bought a generic cable end and ball from Aeroflow. That gave me the ability to cut the cable down to the length i needed, and set it up how i liked. 
 
Can see the cable end in the below photo. 
 

 
The kit came with a larger ball, so I had to cut the original one off the linkage and the new one was a bolt on arrangement. 
 

 
AND this is the end result 
 

 

 
 
** there is more to come. Still sorting through photos** 
 

Next on the agenda;
The dreaded heater box. 
 

 

 

 
This thing was filthy. 48 years worth of dust, leaves, and rotting foam. 
The core has been replaced, so thats a good sign. I have pressure tested the core and it seems ok, but I am going to do it again today. im not convinced i tested it properly. 
 
Also, someone had used what looks like windscreen sealer to reinstall the lid when it was apart previously 🤦‍♂️ when in actual fact, its meant to be foam to seal it. I have bought all new high density foam, not the open cell shit that rots away, and am currently in the process of resealing it and assembling the heater box. 
 
 
I got a little stuck with this lever for the main vent flap. its pressed onto a spline. I couldn't get the internals of the heater matrix out until that lever, and its flap were removed. 
 

 
Of all things, a $19 tap handle remover from Bunnings worked perfectly at getting that lever off 🤣
 

 
After I got the internals out of the box, the rest of the mess from 48 years of crap was revealed 😬
 

 

 
 
** This is where I am currently up to. The heater box is the last thing I need to do to make the car 100% water tight. 
I also have another radiator for it, second hand but pressure tested ok. its also larger. technically from a Cortina, but they are the same as what was used in Mexicos. So i has a larger top tank, and larger cores. Once the radiator is in, technically I could run the engine. And with the brakes all up and working, when I book it in for the exhaust to be done, it will be great to be able to drive it on and off the trailer instead of winching it. 
 
In between all this major stuff, I have done a lot of little things that I haven't really documented. Ive replaced all the door seals now, rebuilt all the latches on the doors, mirrors are on etc. so from the outside she looks almost complete. 
 
As you would have seen in above photos from inside the car, the wiring is still a mess. its a job I am not looking forward to doing. the inside of the car is another project in itself, to do it to the level I'd find acceptable. There is wiring to sort out, small bits of surface rust, lots of cleaning to do in cavities that aren't easily accessible. I need to clean all these out so I can then cavity wax them and keep them safe from future rust. 
I need to tidy up the wiring, install sound deadening before the carpet goes in, and order and install the new amp and wiring for the stereo, because as much as i love the sound of the weber and the exhaust, on longer drives I need decent music. 
I want to say its not that far off, but it is. My expected finish timeline keeps getting further and further away, so for now I am going to say that if I can drive it out my shed under its own steam, for its first test drive by christmas, it will be the best christmas present ever. It will also mark 3 years since it was written off.  

wow, so sorry its been so long between updates....
 
Well here we go. 
 
The bolts I originally used for the shifter were too bulky, and were touching the body, so I fitted smaller round headed bolts, and loosened the gearbox mount and resettled its alignment, which seems to have given more space. 
 

 

 
I then need to sort out the shift gator. This is a steering rack boot, that happens to actually fit together up inside the original interior shift gator. so now the short shifter mechanism and the body are both sealed. 
 

 

 
 
Next was the brakes; 
 

 
I replaced the booster with a new one instead of trying to use mine. 
 

 
Rebuilt master cylinder by myself, was pretty happy with that. And new booster all mated together. 
 

 
All installed. I was wrapped to see that my new brake lines that I made, purely off copying the old ones, fitted perfect first go. 
 

 

 
From there I went onto the wiper mechanism. It was in pretty much perfect condition. I just stripped it, cleaned it, gave the motor and gears a clean and regrease and reassembled. 
 

 

 
Next, I went onto the throttle cable. 
I'd had this vision for ages, to run a throttle cable like Mk 2 1600 Ghias had. The Mk2 1600 Ghia had a 1600 with a factory 32/36 Weber. basically my exact setup. now they also had a unique throttle cable, where it was super short, and came from the firewall and straight to the back of the carby. I have the same setup, including the Mk2 Weber throttle bracket. Problem is, Mk1 and 2 throttle pedals are different, and cable ends are different. I had a custom cable sitting here, suited for a 2L Pinto into Mk1. Basically its a Mk1 pedal, but Mk2 at the carby end. However it was way too long for what I wanted because the carby on a Pinto is on the opposite side to a 1600. 
 
My solution;
I bought a generic cable end and ball from Aeroflow. That gave me the ability to cut the cable down to the length i needed, and set it up how i liked. 
 
Can see the cable end in the below photo. 
 

 
The kit came with a larger ball, so I had to cut the original one off the linkage and the new one was a bolt on arrangement. 
 

 
AND this is the end result 
 

 

 
 
** there is more to come. Still sorting through photos** 
 

Hi guys, 
 
Im looking for a fabricator in Melbourne that can custom make a turbo manifold to suit a 250 crossflow, copied off another manifold that i can provide for them to replicate. 
 
Thanks in advance

a very long awaited update. 
 
I've taken a bit of a step back, and am back working under the bonnet, sorting out engine mounts 😕 
 
I bought brand new Pacemaker 4-1 extractors, and very quickly discovered they do not fit  well they do, but not on my car. 
After much research, talking with Pacemaker themselves, and other club members, I discovered my engine mounts were a bit out of whack. 
 
Bit of a story behind this. ill try keep it short. 
When I bought the car i had to replace the engine mounts. the original 1300 style mounts are not available, so the best option is to use aftermarket engine plates, and "pinto" rubbers. 
According to the UK supplier, for a kent crossflow, i need to run 1 x long engine plate, 1 x short engine plate, 1 x 52mm rubber, and 1 x 42mm rubber. back when i fitted this setup, I had to modify the long engine plate to take 10mm out of it. they seemed fine, but the engine always looked a little crooked in the engine bay 🤔
 
Jump forward to present day, extractors wont fit due to the engine mounts. doing some research, i appeared to have them ass about. So I am now slowly in the process of trying different engine mount combos to get the engine sitting correct. so far i have managed to get the extractors to bolt up, but engine is sitting too high, therefor they are just touching the passenger side foot well. 
I also have the driver's side of the engine sitting on a block of wood to stop it from dropped 😬
 
Why you no fit? 😡
 

 
why you STILL no fit? 🤬
 

 
🖕🖕🖕
 

 
success 🕺 ... sort of. they are on but touching the floor. 
 
**don't worry, they will be ceramic coated silver** 
 

 
This is how the engine is sitting on the driver's side at the moment to get it sitting correctly. I have another set of engine plates to try tomorrow on my day off. 
 

 
 
Now for the more exciting news....... 
 
*enter suspenseful music** 
 
I got my Recaro seats back from the upholsterer  
I am so in love with these seats. 
 

 
 

I got the steering column back in finally. still scratched it, but not nearly as bad, and i think i layered enough paint on that the below layers are still intact and not showing bare metal. 
 
 

 

 
I bare metalled the handbrake lever, and painted it with whatever black paint i had left over. In this case acrylic gloss black. Im trying to use up all the paint i have in the shed before I go buying more. 
I really wasnt sure how the gloss was going to look in the car... 
 

 
Looks better than I thought. Not has "blingy" as i expected. granted 75% of the lever is covered by the gator. 
 

 
 
Unfortunately the steering wheel and boss kit copped a little bit of overspray from being in the workshop. 
The steering wheel im not upset about. as much as i like the deep dish wheel, it was a $100 Saas fake leather wheel, and after being on there for 4 years, it is actually a little worn out from my right hand. So im looking to replace it with a decent quality Momo, or Moto Lita etc. something that is actually well made. 
 
The boss kit, i couldn't get the overspray off of yet, which is a shame. but I will try clay bar, of no luck I will give it a coat of black paint to touch it up. 
 

Thankfully the bolt will be even easier than drilling. It goes right through the firewall, so I should be able to wind it out the engine side of the firewall. 
 
The alternator i have no doubt is made in china, but it is a Burton product, so hopefully its of decent quality. 
 
My original lucas one worked ok, but the bearings are shot. and they don't come apart like a Bosch, without desoldering and soldering wires inside the back case, otherwise i would have just replaced the bearings and kept running it 
 

I ordered some more parts from Burton Power in the UK. 
I will always support local businesses, but I can't justify doing so when, for example I can get a brand new 60A alternator for less than half the price of what I'd pay for a reconditioned changeover unit locally, and delivered from the UK in 5 days (including weekend). By the time ive added a few other items into the order, the the freight is a write off and everything comes in significantly cheaper than buying them locally. 
 
Brand new replica Lucas 60A alternator. I will have to do a minor wiring change, because of the connections at the back of the unit. 
 

 
The other items were cosmetic items...
 
Engine bay before (with new alternator fitted) 
 

 
Engine bay after. 
New Billet alloy rocker cover and oil filler cap/breather. 

I could have ordered the rocker cover with just a polished plaque instead of "Burton", to put my own thing on there, but decided ive spent enough money with them to justify putting their branding on my car somewhere.  
 

 

 
I also ordered a new, genuine Ford ignition lead separator, which are designed to go into a little bracket mounted to the top of the factory rocker cover (see pic above) in case i ever decided to go back to the original rocker cover. Then, realised it would work ok just as a separator even if it isn't actually mounted in anyway. 
 

 
I got all excited about reinstalling the steering column, and I snapped a bolt in the firewall  
So its back out of the car again, and in frustration removing it i scratched the shit out of the fresh paint on it anyway, so this time, ill take it back to bare metal, and start over. hopefully this time when I finally fit the column it will be the last time.