Charcoalghia

Yes Dave. Because I have nothing better to do than scan in, resize and upload 6 million pages.
 
I need to be in the shed, so drip feed it is!
 
But just for you , here's another one which, since we are on the snowflake page... details why our beloved snowie came about in the first place...
 
In the beginning (of this story anyway) was the XD Fairmont ghia wheel which was a carry-over from XC Fairmont GXL (part no. XD 1007 C). However with the revised calipers on disc brake-rear of the XE Fairmont ghia and ZK Fairlane, the old wheel couldn't accomodate the physically larger alloy caliper assembly (through it's full range of movement). An interim fix was to machine the earlier stock of wheels (part no. XE 1007 CD) and mark them accordingly. This led to problems... a whole new wheel was required. So the snowflake was born  , which could accomodate the new calipers (part no. XE 1007 C).
 
Here is a good example of XD ghia wheels (Farkins baby brother, pinched from page1 of farkins project, with thanks to Dave and the whole farkin family!)
 

 
TSB group 3001, article 30, May 1982.
 

 
 
Hope that makes you happy Sparky_Dave  !

by recently do you mean just converted it and it wont start or youve had it running since and its recently died?
 
if youve done mechanical work are you sure the earths are all mounted correctly?

Anyone ever used something like this....?
http://www.eastwood.com/internal-frame-coating-w-spray-nozzle.html

Doesn't sound very nice mate. Can't answer the oil one but the cranking issue I have encountered many times on breakdowns. It often happens when the car has sat for a long time. You crank it and it feels like you've got no plugs in it... No compression. It cranks and cranks and nothing still. What's happening is the cam actuator(s) have emptied themselves of oil and retarded the cams fully, bleeding off any compression while you crank. It takes a while to get oil pressure to the top of the engine and through those tiny holes in the solenoids, but then once that finally happens and you get normal cam action, you have another problem: the computer doesn't know all this is happening and just keeps pumping in fuel while cranking, and ends up flooding the engine. The way to clear a flooded EFI engine is to hold your foot flat to the floor and crank. The computer knows that you're trying to clear it out so stops injecting fuel. It should then cough and splutter to life with some black smoke, etc.<br /><br />This cam problem is often caused by the solenoid becoming dirty and jammed open slightly in the tiny valve inside, causing oil to leak back out of the actuator once the engine has stopped. Then you go full retard, so to speak. Hope I explained it well enough

Here you go:

LED's these days...man.  Fucking burn my eyes and illuminate the back of my skull that much I can feel it on the back of my neck.