Nato of Falcons

Guys, thanks heaps, this had me sweating at 11pm haha.
 
I looked at the wording and was like ???? What??? Have I been wrong this entire time? (It happens a lot haha)
 
I went to look in the manual and it says "Place the thermostat back in reverse of removal" and without pictures I was nervous I was going to put it in wrong hahaha.
 
God I love this site.

Guys, thanks heaps, this had me sweating at 11pm haha.
 
I looked at the wording and was like ???? What??? Have I been wrong this entire time? (It happens a lot haha)
 
I went to look in the manual and it says "Place the thermostat back in reverse of removal" and without pictures I was nervous I was going to put it in wrong hahaha.
 
God I love this site.

Guys, thanks heaps, this had me sweating at 11pm haha.
 
I looked at the wording and was like ???? What??? Have I been wrong this entire time? (It happens a lot haha)
 
I went to look in the manual and it says "Place the thermostat back in reverse of removal" and without pictures I was nervous I was going to put it in wrong hahaha.
 
God I love this site.

Hey everyone!
 
Good news, im healthy again and workiing on cars.
 
In the time ive been away I have had my XF falcon' dash crack... Sad days.
 
Is  there anything I can do to fix this? I thought Id start here because you guys have been so helpful along the resto of this one. (ignore the filth its been like 6 months)
 
Thanks for that and I hope you are all doing really well hey.
 

I believe this is it
 sorry for the hassle
 

Absolute Legend Dave, thats really awesome, cheap too! Im going to get one and then put it all back together! Ive got a gasket to make!

Pretty sure they're the same as all falcons and USA fords - mustangs etc.
There are new ones available.
 
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/314416055288
https://www.autoware.com.au/shop/classic-mustang-falcon-ford-pickup-parts/1979-93-mustang/fuel-1979-93-mustang/1965-86-fuel-sending-unit-filter-5-16-or-3-8-diameter-line/
https://nationalmustangs.com.au/products/1965-1973-ford-mustang-3-8-fuel-sender-filter?variant=35243107549336
https://themusclecarpartsgarage.com.au/product/sender-unit-fuel-filter-3-8/
 

Cool. 
See if you can find a second hand filter sock at a wreckers, any one will doo, as long as it can be secured to the pick up tube tightly. Wire/hose clamp etc....

Hey guys,
 
Soaked some kero in it for a while, then hammered flat a piece of steel wire - put that in a drill and then augered it up there for a bit and eventually got it loose enough to air compress out of there. so it worked well hey!
 
I tried looking for a universal one but couldnt find one that fits anywhere to this so fingers crossed I can get this one to work also couldnt find the filter to fit on the bottom of it hey haha
 
Im thinking Ill just put another high end filter on the line and run it bare???

Looks like Ive found the issue... this is blocked up super hard.
 
Sorry its taken me so long to come back to the forum, ive been really sick.
 
So I have a question now, if I cant unstuck this fuel sender, is there are new age equivalent?
 
It did its job and ate all the rust and crap in the tank but sacrificed itself in such a noble way to protect engine.
 
 

Looks like Ive found the issue... this is blocked up super hard.
 
Sorry its taken me so long to come back to the forum, ive been really sick.
 
So I have a question now, if I cant unstuck this fuel sender, is there are new age equivalent?
 
It did its job and ate all the rust and crap in the tank but sacrificed itself in such a noble way to protect engine.
 
 

At around $1,200.00 for a brand new copper/brass x-series radiator... your one is infinitely rebuildable.
 
Think like Grandad's axe -
end tanks can be un-soldered and the core cleaned out, (re-cored if needed) many times over.
Much MUCH cheaper than $1.2k.
 
 

how much is it to recore one? the core itelf is on ebay for the first time i've ever seen for $135 ish link to triple core
 
used reasonable ones should still be under $100 if you can find a wrecker
 
new copper brass in 3 core (2 core must be cheaper )  at $900 in the wide ones link to new copper brass 3 CORE
 
$200 odd for a new alloy one, not sure which alloy one is the peoples choice, but plenty of people are using them these days new alloy one

I just dropped the radiator out of the ZK at my radiator shop to have it checked out.  He's old school and one of the last guys in the region that can still do brazing work.
 
Initial look revealed that the core may need some work.
 
I'll report back with what he did and the cost next Wednesday.

yeah it's not unusual.. BUT.
 
@Nato of Falcons 
from that VISUAL,
you may find the radiator is fine, just reverse flush it, and see if you can see water flowing through the tubes (alloy radiators are cheap at least)..

what you will likely find, or find out soon. is the welsh plugs are on their way out.(there's one behind the inlet manifold also ON the manifold)and one behind the flywheel. 
and. the biggest risk in my opinion, is the water pump if it's got the steel fan type (genuine ford had a cast iron impeller that would last longer than the seal at least) anyway, the fan blades can rust away.  
AND, the other risk is rusted bolts in the block from the water pump. 


all good learning stuff. not fun for new players. 
but. the XF is THE BEST CAR FOR LEARNING.. 
one of the easiest things to work on this side of a gemini.
 

Huston... we have a problem... At this rate all the bolt ons and the radiator & Fuel pump are going to have to be scratched and new ones done.
 
I like learning and experiencing this engine but damn ive opened up a can of worms on this one fella's.

Only thing electric in the tank is the fuel gauge sensor, rest of the fuel system is purely mechanical on a carby xflow (unless the car was put on LPG at one point in its life then there will be a lock off solenoid in the fuel line somewhere), there is a mesh screen on the end of the fuel sender in the tank that could have rotted off or collapsed and keeps blocking the fuel sender, your best bet would be to pull the fuel sender out and inspect it

It very well could be, I am going to test the line a bit more tomorrow because the wife can assist in a couple of tests haha. Also helps that the battery will be charged as well. I certainly will keep you posted but over all the steel lines seem fine so far, the rubber seems ok? But for sure will test pressure tomorrow.

got to watch out for redbacks working on old cars, 
 
My cars have them from sitting a long time, definitely get the surface spray out if it was from the car.  and also a flea bomb type (i've had them in the air vents, in the wiper plenum, under the mudgaurds and bumpers (places you reach into to undo stuff)
tip for redbacks, the web is STRONG, if you are brushing a web with a screwdriver and the web seems strong, it's likely a redback so go to town with the spray ( 2 people i've met had been bitten by them working on cars, one needed the hospital) 

itchy sounds like Bullant or Wasp or white tail spider.  redback = PAIN.. and lots of it.  

that laquery goop is what old fuel does when it goes rancid(or crusty crystals with the recent fuels)
the tank pick up has a plastic screen on it that can plug up with the same gunk.  there's nothing in it after that, just a pipe. 
 
i'd also check it still pulls from  the bottle so you can confirm it's not blocked from goop since initially running.  
did you have a filter in the system for the bottle setup? 
i'd pull the tank sender/pick up out and have a look again. 
 
BARN FIND ADDS VALUE ... NOT! (maybe if you like working on crusty fuel lines, brake lines, perished rubber everything.) 
there's also hose leak  potential (sucking air) from rusty metal lines and or other rubber sections to the tank.  
really need to treat it as 5 different sections now and rule out any issues in each one

Are you testing flow with positive pressure? Because the line flows using suction. Could the suction be collapsing the line somewhere?

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Stinks too! But im glad its not stuck now, I took both ends off the fuel line to check the air flow and it seems fine now with no blockages hey so thats a plus, but still wont pick up.
 
Ive taken the fuel filter off now just to make sure it wasnt interfering but the damn battery died (im having suck a good luck day today haha)
 
What ive done while its charging though, is take out the filter, run the pick up line straight from the fuel pump into a bottle of petrol and will try to kick it over tomorrow when its got some charge. Just to make sure its still goes good like it did before I got into the fuel tank side.

Yeah def a good tip, I threw a few bug bombs in there a few weeks ago and they must have come back, got me on the leg and I tell you what, the itchiness was insane and yeah just had a bit of a nap haha all good just got real tired no life and death. Ill be on the lookout though a bit more now.

Sorry ive been sick (bit by a spider and it really rocked me hahha) ill be working on it this arvo and will def keep you posted to what happens.