iamaelephant

I really can't believe this, I'm so annoyed. I was very careful with the gasket install (I followed Clevo King's excellent video). Everything seemed good until the final torquing (just 12 ft lb) and the gasket split in the corner. This sump install on the garage floor was such a massive pain, at this point I think I'll just live with the damn leak for a year until I can be bothered to do it again (or if I decide to pull the motor at any point).
 
Any idea what I could have done to avoid this?
 

I really can't believe this, I'm so annoyed. I was very careful with the gasket install (I followed Clevo King's excellent video). Everything seemed good until the final torquing (just 12 ft lb) and the gasket split in the corner. This sump install on the garage floor was such a massive pain, at this point I think I'll just live with the damn leak for a year until I can be bothered to do it again (or if I decide to pull the motor at any point).
 
Any idea what I could have done to avoid this?
 

Here's a comparison of the old (only less than 2 years old) mounts to new ones. The old ones folded severely at the bend. I don't know what caused this and I hope it doesn't happen again. The new ones are 0.5mm thicker so not very much.
 
Now that the new mounts are fitted I need to get the oil pan on and it is really fighting me but I'll get there.
 

 

 

 

I have Pioneer 602257 mounts on their way now, I'll let you know if they look any better.

I have Pioneer 602257 mounts on their way now, I'll let you know if they look any better.

Transgold
https://www.maceengineering.co.nz/epages/macenz.sf/en_NZ/?ObjectPath=/Shops/macenz/Products/MNT836-D

Those new mounts look pretty bad, in comparison to ur originals.
The angle of the upper tabs, is way different!
 
What brand are they?
ie - Mackay, Kelpro etc

Choices seem to be the following -

Mackay - A1140
Kelpro - MT8095
Pioneer - 602257
Transgold - MNT836
 
I've also read, u can get new rubber vulcanised to the old metal pieces.

Another day another problem. I'm trying to get a new oil pan onto my 351C and the engine mounts are interfering with the flange of the sump, preventing it from fitting. Is this a case of cheap engine mounts that are incorrectly shaped or what? See these pictures, notice how the engine mounts curve inwards toward the flage. Are they supposed to look like this?
 
In case you're wondering how the old oil pan fit, the flange has been damaged by the engine mounts and it was very difficult to remove.
 

 

I'm replacing the timing cover and crank seal. I found this post on another forum that indicates I can get away without using the lower rubber seal. I gave this a crack and it's leaking worse than when I started. It's NOT leaking from the corners, just the lower sump surface.
 
Has anyone used this method successfully? I'm guessing I just didn't use enough high temp sealer. I have the rubbers so I can use them if I need to, but I had a wanker of a time getting them in without lowering the sump.

Thanks for all of the advice and discussion folks it's been really helpful. I lifted the car and the spring easily popped back into its saddle. Not sure what caused it to pop out and what I can do to prevent it in the future 🤔
 
@deankxf thanks for the advice on the shocks - I will start searching for a replacement pair ASAP. I've replaced every single bearing, ball joint and bushing under the car so it makes sense to finish it off with new shocks.
 
Regarding the rubber on the spring saddles, that came like that with the Rare Spares complete bushing and ball joint kit.

Thanks for all of the advice and discussion folks it's been really helpful. I lifted the car and the spring easily popped back into its saddle. Not sure what caused it to pop out and what I can do to prevent it in the future 🤔
 
@deankxf thanks for the advice on the shocks - I will start searching for a replacement pair ASAP. I've replaced every single bearing, ball joint and bushing under the car so it makes sense to finish it off with new shocks.
 
Regarding the rubber on the spring saddles, that came like that with the Rare Spares complete bushing and ball joint kit.

Thanks for the advice so far guys, will have a proper look for cracks and spring packers when I get it in the air. @SPArKy_Dave here's some pictures, they're a bit shit but it's the best I can do until I get the car lifted up. You should be able to make out the spring, bumpstop and how it rides.
 

 

 

Mate thanks for the part numbers! Managed to find the Fuelmiser locally, I'll let you know when I get my hands on it but this sounds promising. Appreciated!

Thanks for your help on this guys, I have been putting this job off for ages but finally got it done. Pulling the steering box out is the way to go. The central nut on the coupling is not tight, but it has a locking tab piece that needs to be bent with a fine flat screwdriver to unlock it, and a locking washer thingy. No way it was coming off while in the car. I used the tuning fork style ball joint separator to remove the pitman arm from the steering linkage.
 
I had to pull the drivers side header to get it out the bottom. A pain in the neck, but it gave me an excuse to install some brand new Pro Flow stainless headers I have had lying around for ages, and they fit great. Much nicer than the crusty old Pacemakers I was running. Also took care of some sway bar and leading arm bushings that needed doing.
 
Now I just need to pop out for some ATF to fill up the PS reservoir and it'll be all done.
 
I took some pictures that will hopefully help someone in the future with this job.
https://imgur.com/a/OBWTbNV
(VIDEO LINK totally shagged rag joint compared to new one) https://i.imgur.com/ie8KtNP.mp4
 

 

 

 

Thanks for your help on this guys, I have been putting this job off for ages but finally got it done. Pulling the steering box out is the way to go. The central nut on the coupling is not tight, but it has a locking tab piece that needs to be bent with a fine flat screwdriver to unlock it, and a locking washer thingy. No way it was coming off while in the car. I used the tuning fork style ball joint separator to remove the pitman arm from the steering linkage.
 
I had to pull the drivers side header to get it out the bottom. A pain in the neck, but it gave me an excuse to install some brand new Pro Flow stainless headers I have had lying around for ages, and they fit great. Much nicer than the crusty old Pacemakers I was running. Also took care of some sway bar and leading arm bushings that needed doing.
 
Now I just need to pop out for some ATF to fill up the PS reservoir and it'll be all done.
 
I took some pictures that will hopefully help someone in the future with this job.
https://imgur.com/a/OBWTbNV
(VIDEO LINK totally shagged rag joint compared to new one) https://i.imgur.com/ie8KtNP.mp4
 

 

 

 

removing the steering column was how i thought you would do it.

that would give you access (not needing to telescope the end)
unplug the wiper loom, blinker loom and ignition loom, and undo the 10? screws you probably cut your hand on undoing the rag joint bolts,  and the 2 or 3 under the pedal box and the column should come out (i haven't done it for 20yrs so check @CHESTNUTXE thread for a pic of it removed) 
might be doable then?

 
the way to undo these is to strike the drag link on full lock with the nut loosened(not removed, so it protects the threads when you miss)

or you can get wedge type separators for tie rods(size that will be) or ball joints
*I've never used them.
 
 
crap video i found with google to show how on a ball joint
 

Silly question, if I remove the power steering box does the PS system need to be bled? Pretty sure the answer is no, but steering is quite important so I'd like to get it right.

Arg I'm so aggravated with this caliper. After the rebuild I re-assembled everything. I bled the brakes, no leaks nothing, but the right rear is dragging and getting hot. I don't understand why. The handbrake lever is moving freely and fully returning (and working) but the brake still drags. Any ideas? Only that one side is dragging. I never touched the other side apart from bleeding (fully flushed the brake fluid).

Hey Dave. I didn't see your post until after I had everything put back together and bled but I had done it the opposite way - piston screwed down first then the seal pushed in around the sides. After I saw your post I decided to pull it apart again and check, and yeah the dust seal had already started pulling out so it's a good thing I did. 
 
Managed to get it back together using your method (not easily, though). The damaged piston top did not damage the seal thankfully. 
 
Thanks for the advice, it's all looking good now. 

Hey Dave. I didn't see your post until after I had everything put back together and bled but I had done it the opposite way - piston screwed down first then the seal pushed in around the sides. After I saw your post I decided to pull it apart again and check, and yeah the dust seal had already started pulling out so it's a good thing I did. 
 
Managed to get it back together using your method (not easily, though). The damaged piston top did not damage the seal thankfully. 
 
Thanks for the advice, it's all looking good now. 

These callipers are really doing my head in - this must be the worst-designed part I have worked with.
Any advice for getting this seal done? If I try attaching it to the piston first I thought I would be able to push it down into its internal groove, but I am struggling to do so. I don't see any way I could insert it into the internal groove then fit the bottom of the piston through the seal. What am I missing here?
 
Also yeah I know the piston is pretty chewed up. Half of that damage was done before I started, other half is struggling with adjustable pliers getting the damn thing out. The sealing surfaces still look fine.
 

Really helpful thanks Sparky Dave!

They almost look like XE rear disc calipers?
From memory, the earlier ones need the axles removed, to replace the disc itself?
 
I'd probably use some heat on the slides/bushes, before attempting to drive out the slide pins.
Those spring clips need to be removed also.
 
I'd probably pull them apart and fit new seals, as a minimum.
 
Protex or IBS, are likely the only ones making new rubber kits for these calipers now.
 
DB3099 - Left Piston (dual keyway piston and thread mech)
DB3100 - Right Piston (dual keyway piston and thread mech)
DB2694 - (dual keyway piston, no thread mech)
DB2925 - (later single keyway piston)
 
K1199S - Caliper Repair Kit
 
Ford-specific calper piston wind-back tools -
Dual Keyway - https://www.tetools.com/disc-brake-tool-ford~13875
Single Keyway - https://www.tetools.com/disc-brake-tool-ford~13876
 
ebay universal kit - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/303466852133 (cheap price)
 

Yeah this whole job started from a seized handbrake lever.