iamaelephant

Another day another problem. I'm trying to get a new oil pan onto my 351C and the engine mounts are interfering with the flange of the sump, preventing it from fitting. Is this a case of cheap engine mounts that are incorrectly shaped or what? See these pictures, notice how the engine mounts curve inwards toward the flage. Are they supposed to look like this? In case you're wondering how the old oil pan fit, the flange has been damaged by the engine mounts and it was very difficult to remove.

I really can't believe this, I'm so annoyed. I was very careful with the gasket install (I followed Clevo King's excellent video). Everything seemed good until the final torquing (just 12 ft lb) and the gasket split in the corner. This sump install on the garage floor was such a massive pain, at this point I think I'll just live with the damn leak for a year until I can be bothered to do it again (or if I decide to pull the motor at any point). Any idea what I could have done to avoid this?

Correct on the brands. Unfortunately no I don't have an OEM mount, but if anyone does I'd love to see a measurement. My pioneer mounts are 4.5mm thick.

Here's a comparison of the old (only less than 2 years old) mounts to new ones. The old ones folded severely at the bend. I don't know what caused this and I hope it doesn't happen again. The new ones are 0.5mm thicker so not very much. Now that the new mounts are fitted I need to get the oil pan on and it is really fighting me but I'll get there.

I have Pioneer 602257 mounts on their way now, I'll let you know if they look any better.

Transgold https://www.maceengineering.co.nz/epages/macenz.sf/en_NZ/?ObjectPath=/Shops/macenz/Products/MNT836-D

I don't have any OG mounts on me right now, but I have some new mounts on order which should arrive in the next day or two. As it happens I am the one who installed the current mounts and I have some photos of them next to the ones I pulled out. To my eye they do look a millimeter or two thinner than the original ones, what do you think? They came from a reputable company but I suspect I bought some chinese junk here. The new sump is an Aeroflow, I've always had good luck with them as a brand.

I'm replacing the timing cover and crank seal. I found this post on another forum that indicates I can get away without using the lower rubber seal. I gave this a crack and it's leaking worse than when I started. It's NOT leaking from the corners, just the lower sump surface. Has anyone used this method successfully? I'm guessing I just didn't use enough high temp sealer. I have the rubbers so I can use them if I need to, but I had a wanker of a time getting them in without lowering the sump.

I had some weird suspension noise develop today on the front left. I haven't had time to get under it and inspect properly, but from looking through the shock tower gaps it looks like the spring has popped partly out of the spring seat. Do you guys know what would have caused this, and is there an easy way to solve it without spring compressors? The ute has been lowered, but it was done by previous owners so I don't know exactly how. Do the springs seat against the body or does the shock have a seat on top? I guess what I'm really asking is, when I lift the car by the frame and the wheels hang, are the springs under compression? If not, I hope I can just drop the shock from the top and re-jig the spring into its seat.

Thanks for all of the advice and discussion folks it's been really helpful. I lifted the car and the spring easily popped back into its saddle. Not sure what caused it to pop out and what I can do to prevent it in the future @deankxf thanks for the advice on the shocks - I will start searching for a replacement pair ASAP. I've replaced every single bearing, ball joint and bushing under the car so it makes sense to finish it off with new shocks. Regarding the rubber on the spring saddles, that came like that with the Rare Spares complete bushing and ball joint kit.

Thanks for the advice so far guys, will have a proper look for cracks and spring packers when I get it in the air. @SPArKy_Dave here's some pictures, they're a bit shit but it's the best I can do until I get the car lifted up. You should be able to make out the spring, bumpstop and how it rides.

Bare with my because my car is a bit of a Frankenfalcon. My water temp sensor broke (terminal snapped off) and I'm trying to figure out what to buy. The ute is an XF. It has this dash which I think(?) is an S-pack dash, which I don't think is stock. The engine is a 351C, obviously not stock. The temp sensor goes into the water neck (sensor on left, fan switch on right). I figured since it's a Falcon dash and water is water I should order a Falcon temp sensor so I bought a TTS010. I fitted it but the temp is displaying in the middle of the dial (pictured above) while cool and "overheats" from normal usage. Cooling system is definitely good. The previously working temp sender has the following marks on it. I googled that part number and it indicates it's this unit with a totally different fitting. Any ideas?

Mate thanks for the part numbers! Managed to find the Fuelmiser locally, I'll let you know when I get my hands on it but this sounds promising. Appreciated!

My steering coupling is stuffed and I've ordered a new one. I took a look down there and with the Clevo, headers and brake booster there's not a lot of room to work in. How is this thing held on? Is it just the two bolts on the steering coupling, or will there be a central nut holding it onto the steering box spline? I'd really like to do this in the car without removing the steering box or brake booster if possible. Or is this going to be more trouble than it's worth? Some pictures and video of the coupling.

Thanks for your help on this guys, I have been putting this job off for ages but finally got it done. Pulling the steering box out is the way to go. The central nut on the coupling is not tight, but it has a locking tab piece that needs to be bent with a fine flat screwdriver to unlock it, and a locking washer thingy. No way it was coming off while in the car. I used the tuning fork style ball joint separator to remove the pitman arm from the steering linkage. I had to pull the drivers side header to get it out the bottom. A pain in the neck, but it gave me an excuse to install some brand new Pro Flow stainless headers I have had lying around for ages, and they fit great. Much nicer than the crusty old Pacemakers I was running. Also took care of some sway bar and leading arm bushings that needed doing. Now I just need to pop out for some ATF to fill up the PS reservoir and it'll be all done. I took some pictures that will hopefully help someone in the future with this job. https://imgur.com/a/OBWTbNV (VIDEO LINK totally shagged rag joint compared to new one) https://i.imgur.com/ie8KtNP.mp4

Ok so I started getting into this in the weekend and I don't think it's happening with the steering box still in the car. I can't get the steering column shaft to telescope backwards far enough. I will pull the box some time during the week. I am hoping to keep the pitman arm attached to the box, will the ball joint come apart easily or am I in for a fight? Other than the ball joint it looks easy, disconnect the lines, undo 3 bolts in the guard and drop it out the bottom. The coupling bolts are already out.

Silly question, if I remove the power steering box does the PS system need to be bled? Pretty sure the answer is no, but steering is quite important so I'd like to get it right.

Feeling very stupid as I've never been stymied by a calliper before. This is on my XF ute but I don't know what the rear end came from originally, I assume some kind of Falcon. I've removed the two nuts on the back of these "bolts" but it's hard to see how these act as bolts? There's no head/flange? And I can't get them out. Struggling to understand the configuration of this thing. Sorry if this is extremely dumb but this doesn't look like any calliper I've worked on.

Hey Dave, I fitted new seals. I also bought a second kit just in case. This weekend I'll pull it apart again and inspect everything closely. I'll also re-do the caliper slides. Is there any lubricant you recommend for the slides? I used molygrease but maybe it needs something more specialised? The caliper kit is Protex brand which I think is a reputable brand. The piston went in tight but without too much trouble which is what I'd expect for a brand new seal.

Arg I'm so aggravated with this caliper. After the rebuild I re-assembled everything. I bled the brakes, no leaks nothing, but the right rear is dragging and getting hot. I don't understand why. The handbrake lever is moving freely and fully returning (and working) but the brake still drags. Any ideas? Only that one side is dragging. I never touched the other side apart from bleeding (fully flushed the brake fluid).

Hey Dave. I didn't see your post until after I had everything put back together and bled but I had done it the opposite way - piston screwed down first then the seal pushed in around the sides. After I saw your post I decided to pull it apart again and check, and yeah the dust seal had already started pulling out so it's a good thing I did. Managed to get it back together using your method (not easily, though). The damaged piston top did not damage the seal thankfully. Thanks for the advice, it's all looking good now.

These callipers are really doing my head in - this must be the worst-designed part I have worked with. Any advice for getting this seal done? If I try attaching it to the piston first I thought I would be able to push it down into its internal groove, but I am struggling to do so. I don't see any way I could insert it into the internal groove then fit the bottom of the piston through the seal. What am I missing here? Also yeah I know the piston is pretty chewed up. Half of that damage was done before I started, other half is struggling with adjustable pliers getting the damn thing out. The sealing surfaces still look fine.

Really helpful thanks Sparky Dave!

Yeah this whole job started from a seized handbrake lever.

Arg I tried screwing it back and the seal twisted up, I think it's toast. Not easy to find kits for these.