jca25

Why is the housing getting honed out its only there really to hold the seal in place, the piston is what u need to be looking at to see it has any marks

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200 crossy was out of a xf we were going to use for a racecar but changed wat car we were going with to a au

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U might find the seal is starting to let go, if there was a hole in the diaphragm u would know bout it the brake pedal would be hard as rock.

To test if still working fine when car is off press the pedal till rock hard and while still holding the brake down start the car the vacuum should pull the pedal down with ease under the pressure of ur foot

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Sorry that's all I got

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The two diaphragms numbers are VH2579 and VH 2580 still need to find the others

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Now after you have it all cleaned up and painted you can put ur seals in using the tools I use the press to put them in but can use the hammer just make sure they are home, the silicon grease is use in the seals.

Next put one of the steel plates on the bakerlite and then use some rubber grease on the first diaphragm on the center hole there is a bit of a art to get the plate to sit in the right spot and the diaphragm on behind it,

Now the second plate with the seal goes on next and then the second diaphragm will go on and will look like the pic above sitting on press, now put ur push rod back in using rubber grease on it aswell after it's all the way put ur c clip on to hold it in place, you can now slide it back into the bottom half of the case,

Now you are getting closer to being done you should have left a front rubber seal and a reaction disc which goes in on top of the c clip then ur push rod that goes into the brake master is next on top place the booster back in to the press, now where the lid will spin on the diaphragm when pressed back together put use rubber grease on the diaphragm side put the spring back in and lid on and line up the two marks that you made in the start before pulling apart, now you can put in ur front seal with its metal plate use a bit of rubber grease on the hole where it goes over the push rod, now you can put in the grommet and one way valve,

Now to test which is hard unless you have a vacuum pump to see if it holds

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You can clean the bakerlite up lightly with some with some wet and dry and kerosene just make sure there is no big grooves where the seals run, to pull out the push rod from the bakerlite after you pull the diaphragms off u should see at least 3/4 of the way up to the top a clip or on top of the push rod you will see a c clip then the push rod will pull out.
 
The rear seal just knock the old one out making sure not to mark the case, now here is the part which is hard unless you have access to a lathe, you need to make up these tools to put the seals in with
 

 

 
Now like any seal make sure they go in flush and straight but one thing these are very brittle
 
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These parts are what needs replacing the part numbers are on them but if I have the old bits still I will put them up
 

 
Once you get all the new parts you will also need some rubber grease (sex lube will not work) and some silicone grease which is use on the seals.
 

 
 
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I had them made at work where I am these days they are fully set up with a engineer shop, (full change of career now work in a sugar mill)

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U might find the seal is starting to let go, if there was a hole in the diaphragm u would know bout it the brake pedal would be hard as rock.

To test if still working fine when car is off press the pedal till rock hard and while still holding the brake down start the car the vacuum should pull the pedal down with ease under the pressure of ur foot

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U might find the seal is starting to let go, if there was a hole in the diaphragm u would know bout it the brake pedal would be hard as rock.

To test if still working fine when car is off press the pedal till rock hard and while still holding the brake down start the car the vacuum should pull the pedal down with ease under the pressure of ur foot

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Under brakes, on a carby or MAF EFI car the engine will likely lean out/die, on a MAP EFI car it would idle high .

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That’s similar to what my xe did Jack, right before the poo started running down my leg. I heard it kind of pop then the wheezing sound every time the pedal was depressed. Maybe yours is leaking slightly

The two diaphragms numbers are VH2579 and VH 2580 still need to find the others

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Sorry that's all I got

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Cheers ando I hope it helps out I may have missed a bit here and there but like I said earlier it is easier for to do then explain but if anyone has a question just ask and I will try to help

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Now after you have it all cleaned up and painted you can put ur seals in using the tools I use the press to put them in but can use the hammer just make sure they are home, the silicon grease is use in the seals.

Next put one of the steel plates on the bakerlite and then use some rubber grease on the first diaphragm on the center hole there is a bit of a art to get the plate to sit in the right spot and the diaphragm on behind it,

Now the second plate with the seal goes on next and then the second diaphragm will go on and will look like the pic above sitting on press, now put ur push rod back in using rubber grease on it aswell after it's all the way put ur c clip on to hold it in place, you can now slide it back into the bottom half of the case,

Now you are getting closer to being done you should have left a front rubber seal and a reaction disc which goes in on top of the c clip then ur push rod that goes into the brake master is next on top place the booster back in to the press, now where the lid will spin on the diaphragm when pressed back together put use rubber grease on the diaphragm side put the spring back in and lid on and line up the two marks that you made in the start before pulling apart, now you can put in ur front seal with its metal plate use a bit of rubber grease on the hole where it goes over the push rod, now you can put in the grommet and one way valve,

Now to test which is hard unless you have a vacuum pump to see if it holds

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They always let go at the worst time. Mine was one of the dreaded plastic EF ones that split where the master bolts on. It showed its ugly head pulling up to a set of lights in traffic on the way home. I had nowhere to go and after stomping the shit out of the pedal, had to swerve onto the median strip (Carlisle ave, Mt Druitt) , which was lucky because if it was any other road without a median strip I would have rammed someone up the arse. I babied it straight to the Ford wreckers to get another one. They knew exactly what had happened when I told them and sure enough, when I pulled it off, there was the crack.

Great thread by the way. Loving the DIY

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Now after you have it all cleaned up and painted you can put ur seals in using the tools I use the press to put them in but can use the hammer just make sure they are home, the silicon grease is use in the seals.

Next put one of the steel plates on the bakerlite and then use some rubber grease on the first diaphragm on the center hole there is a bit of a art to get the plate to sit in the right spot and the diaphragm on behind it,

Now the second plate with the seal goes on next and then the second diaphragm will go on and will look like the pic above sitting on press, now put ur push rod back in using rubber grease on it aswell after it's all the way put ur c clip on to hold it in place, you can now slide it back into the bottom half of the case,

Now you are getting closer to being done you should have left a front rubber seal and a reaction disc which goes in on top of the c clip then ur push rod that goes into the brake master is next on top place the booster back in to the press, now where the lid will spin on the diaphragm when pressed back together put use rubber grease on the diaphragm side put the spring back in and lid on and line up the two marks that you made in the start before pulling apart, now you can put in ur front seal with its metal plate use a bit of rubber grease on the hole where it goes over the push rod, now you can put in the grommet and one way valve,

Now to test which is hard unless you have a vacuum pump to see if it holds

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Great thread mate, very informative and handy for anyone keen to do a bit of diy. I still remember my xe falcon shitting a diaphragm one day on the way to a speedway meet, made the trip very exciting driving to the track with loaded car trailer and a boot full of spares. I almost needed both feet on the brake pedal to pull her up at times

More to come later

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These parts are what needs replacing the part numbers are on them but if I have the old bits still I will put them up
 

 
Once you get all the new parts you will also need some rubber grease (sex lube will not work) and some silicone grease which is use on the seals.
 

 
 
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You can clean the bakerlite up lightly with some with some wet and dry and kerosene just make sure there is no big grooves where the seals run, to pull out the push rod from the bakerlite after you pull the diaphragms off u should see at least 3/4 of the way up to the top a clip or on top of the push rod you will see a c clip then the push rod will pull out.
 
The rear seal just knock the old one out making sure not to mark the case, now here is the part which is hard unless you have access to a lathe, you need to make up these tools to put the seals in with
 

 

 
Now like any seal make sure they go in flush and straight but one thing these are very brittle
 
Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
 
 
 
 

These parts are what needs replacing the part numbers are on them but if I have the old bits still I will put them up
 

 
Once you get all the new parts you will also need some rubber grease (sex lube will not work) and some silicone grease which is use on the seals.
 

 
 
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