motoSycho

Or you could just listen to Bear

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Normal 600s are "square bore", which is how the classic 4-barrel Holleys were originally. All 4 Of the barrels are roughly the same size and the hole centres make a square shape.

Quadrajets popularised the "Spreadbore" design, with the primaries being much smaller and closer together than the secondaries, resulting in the bore centres having a splayed or "spread" pattern from the primary to the secondary side. Like a trapezium.

The SAE decided to standardise each pattern so the majority of 4 barrel carbies fell into either of these two categories. Spread and squarebore each have slightly different bolt patterns too.

Despite spreadbore being wider in the secondaries, the bolt pattern is actually narrower. Square bores have a square bolt pattern, meaning they can be mounted facing forward, 90 or 180 degrees. Spreadbores, if they are meant to go on a spreadbore manifold, can only go one way.

A dual pattern manifold will have 8 bolt holes, 4 to suit each type.

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Looking at the base of the carby (or inlet manifold) spreadbore has different sized throttle butterflies. Squarebore are all the same. 
 

A 650 or a 600 will work. Vac is better in your case as a 650 mech will likely bog it down below 3000. 
A 600 is just like having 2 x 350s on it but with the 2nd one only opening when it needs to.
 
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Yeah 470 is the goods, same-same really. Might need some playing with secondary springs but most are pretty good out of the box these days

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Ok, so 465 Holleys are expensive, and hard to find second hand! 😛
 
How about this 470? They even come with vacumn ports these days. That's got to be a handy thing?
https://outlawspeed.com.au/shop/ho0-81571
 
Spent the day cleaning the motor internals and block today. Gave the bores a hone as well. Everything is now so clean you could eat off it! Rear seal should be here Thursday, so I can start putting it all back together when the arrive.
Also cleaned all the mounting brackets and sump and gave them all a coat of gloss black.
 
PCV valve popped straight into the rubber grommet on the rear of the alloy cover. Can I just pop a filter breather type thingy onto the hose protrusion just behind the filler cap? Or run a hose from there to a catch can?

 
 

300 ml Coke bottle and 2 cable ties, should do the trick.  😁

Cheers thanks for that Gerg 👍

Normally dot-to-dot is the go if not going to the trouble of degreeing it. If there's a particular need to advance or retard the cam then that's when you would do so.
 
In my case, I shoved mine in 4 degrees advanced and I'm pretty happy with the outcome. The reason why I did that is that clevo cams are designed for 351s, but in a 302 things happen later in the rpm band so to make up for that and bring the torque in earlier, I installed +4.
 
Yours on the other hand, will have a cam designed for that exact displacement as the advertised rpm range will apply to your engine size, so zero would be ideal.
 
If for example, you were putting that cam in a 3.3, you may want to go +4 so you don't have to rev it out to hit the power band.
 
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Wow looks like the previous owner took the "no oil change" challenge. The silicone's a shocker too

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Yep I'm just going on advice and tips from guys here. 465 seems to be a popular size for a crossy. I just need to find a decent one now.
 
Pulled the rooted motor apart to pinch the sump and some other bits, and sweet Jeebus what a mess. The oil pickup was clogged up with strips of silastic and the sump was full of loose bits of silastic as well! No wonder it was fucked !
I gave this thing an oil change etc. when I first got it as well. The oil that came out of it didn't look that bad! And I have done sweet fuck all Ks on the new oil!


 

 

 
I wish I had taken a photo of the sump before I gave it a clean.

 

Yep I'm just going on advice and tips from guys here. 465 seems to be a popular size for a crossy. I just need to find a decent one now.
 
Pulled the rooted motor apart to pinch the sump and some other bits, and sweet Jeebus what a mess. The oil pickup was clogged up with strips of silastic and the sump was full of loose bits of silastic as well! No wonder it was fucked !
I gave this thing an oil change etc. when I first got it as well. The oil that came out of it didn't look that bad! And I have done sweet fuck all Ks on the new oil!


 

 

 
I wish I had taken a photo of the sump before I gave it a clean.

 

Yep, spot on Deaner 
2 barrels are not considered performance carbies, so are flow rated on a scale using twice as much vacuum (restriction) as 4-barrels are; 3" Hg vs 1.5".
 
So to get a 350 or a 500 to flow their respective amounts, they just suck air through them twice as hard as they would do with a 4-barrel. The true flow of a 350 on the 4-barrel scale is only about 280, which is about what a 34ADM Webber is capable of. A 500 Holley is more like 390.
 
 
I think a 465 would be an ideal size for a warm 250. It would actually be more economical to use once properly tuned. Going up to 600 would be overkill on a Streeter.
 
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Wow, does not take long at all to pull one of these apart!
 
Glad I did, the plate that retains the cam was broken. Lucky I have 3 other motors here to pinch another one from.

 
That's it??? Got to love old motors.

 
I'll roll this out and give it a good going over and clean, and then give the bores a hone and start putting it back together. Rear seal won't be here til later in the week though. Also picked up a 4 barrel manifold for it, so I'll be hunting for a 465 Holley now.

Pushrods will be fine, if they're all straight. Roll them on a good flat surface (like the kitchen cupboard) wait til the Missus is out. !  Or stick one end in the cordless drill and spin them up slowly.

if the hole size is too big, it's for the points dizzy upto XD cast iron head(or XC) 
 
DG2 is what's needed for alloy head blocks
 
to be honest, i've never heard of the DG2A gear, because almost no one plays with the iron head motor. 
 
its a similar story for the clevo, so you can't put a points dizzy in a later block.

OK that makes sense. Yours must have been a late XF with the metric EA crank

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The original motor out of the ute has the M10 and the one I am putting in now has the 7/16. I've only got two of the 7/16 bolts, I'll have to run into town and get some new ones.
Back into a particularly shitty roster run at work, so only going to get a day here and there to get it together and back into the ute. Hopefully aim to get it in on the 18th!

Top end is on and it all does what it should!

 
So had a closer look and this is an 83 block.
The original motor out of my ute is an 84, (1990 build ute) and it looks like it has a rubber rear main in it. It also has slightly bigger bolts holding the flywheel on.
 

yeah there's 3 different rear seals cant remember the XE type casting numer, leaded XF had  84DA block(number is near the coil, cast into it) has the first one piece seal, 86DA has the same size as the E series, and has been people fitting E series cranks to crossflows, supposedly better balanced.. (although, i'm fairly sure SLY250 is still crossflow? )
 
 

Thanks Dean.
 
Yep, I'll run one. Just ordered a new one.
 
 

Nah Chestnut's dead right. Dyno tests are proof of that. Go electric fan as they only come in when needed. Cuts the horrible noise too.

Bolt-on mods only get you so far, and depends on where you're starting from. If you have the standard 4 barrel manifold and carby, they're both good for 400 HP, so no decent gains in swapping them for performance versions.

Biggest things holding back a stock 351 are cam, exhaust and heads. If you don't want to take the heads off to shave them (compression), change the valves and retainers (single piece and single grooves) and do the ports (flow) , then that narrows it down to exhaust and camshaft, which in this case is limited to something around 0.500" lift on stock valve springs and probably 220 duration at 0.050", given that you're working with stock compression.

So... Piss off the mechanical fan, bolt on a set of extractors and shove in a mild cam/lifters/timing set and that's about all you have if you don't want to open up the engine.

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Don't get tempted to block it off, always run a PCV.

yes, theres a hose type fitting in the rocker cover around the middle. just put a hose inline with pcv valve in it
 

MLS head gaskets seem to be the go. (Multi Layer Steel)