motoSycho

That looks nice, it didn't make 795hp at the tyres by itself though. There was obviously some extra lung capacity shoved down it to make that number.

I think your heads will be the limitation on your 302. They'll be the E7TEs with tiny ports and even worse exhausts. It wouldn't matter what intake you put on, they're good for about 300hp with a reasonable street cam. There's a reason why Ford went to the GT40P heads for their performance versions. You could tidy up your stockers if you're feeling sporty with the die grinder, you can make them ok I guess.

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On the subject of starters... If a LH mounted one uses the same as a RH V8, you can mod a BA 6 cyl one (plenty of threads on here show you how), they're compact, readily available and cheap.
 
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Thanks for that, I can use standard pre xf V8 mounts. The starter will be on the left and clutch fork on the right. 
Might have to look at some heat shielding. 

Victory is mine!!!
 
Picked up a 3.23 LSD disc brake diff with the leaf springs etc. out of an XH for $600,,,,,,, and it comes with a free panelvan attached to it 😛

Thanks for that, I can use standard pre xf V8 mounts. The starter will be on the left and clutch fork on the right. 
Might have to look at some heat shielding. 

i'd definitely get a heat sleeve (fitted a bit on My clutch cable and the accel cable of My crossflow) and i made a shield to clamp onto the extractors also for same reason (heat to starter motor also)

Yep I got the CRS bellhousing. There are two for the 302/5.0, you need to make sure you get the one for the EFI motor. It is cable, which is fine by me.
 
@gerg the CRS bellhousing uses the 157 tooth flywheel. So I'll hunt down one of them with the 50oz imbalance, and a clutch pack to suit. I'll also need to get the shorter EF V8 clutch cable, but that should be difficult as all this stuff is readily available now. A quick search on Google bought up a heap of shops, as well as Ebay, that has it all in stock.
 
I also picked up the imp-metric adaptor for the diff brake lines to the XF.
 
 

Just used $100 Clevo ones mate, really nothing flash. Yours should take XR-XY Windsor ones if the engine mounts are similar, also depending on your bellhousing being a left or right hand starter mount.

Clutch cable might be an issue too, I remember my 6 cyl Cortina eating clutch cables because they ran too close to the extractors. I ended up getting a custom longer one made that I could route away from the heat, solved it from then on.

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Yep I got the CRS bellhousing. There are two for the 302/5.0, you need to make sure you get the one for the EFI motor. It is cable, which is fine by me.
 
@gerg the CRS bellhousing uses the 157 tooth flywheel. So I'll hunt down one of them with the 50oz imbalance, and a clutch pack to suit. I'll also need to get the shorter EF V8 clutch cable, but that should be difficult as all this stuff is readily available now. A quick search on Google bought up a heap of shops, as well as Ebay, that has it all in stock.
 
I also picked up the imp-metric adaptor for the diff brake lines to the XF.
 
 

woo! 
so what did you get? assume a CRS bell housing for windsor to T5,  is it cable or hydraulic?
 
i heard the BA manual clutch master cyl/pedal looked possible to retrofit to other cars..(i haven't seen one)  

On that subject.... I went through this whole T5 to V8 thing a few years back, the problem is that there was no factory T5/V8 combo until the E-series came out, which has a deeper bellhousing by 16mm and longer input to suit. So you need to know what T5 will bolt to the bellhousing you're getting and also what tooth count your flywheel will need to be to match it (157 or 164). The flywheel needs to be a later (post-82) 50oz imbalance vs the earlier 28oz.
 
I ended up using the 6 cyl T5 out of my EA/EF which has the same input shaft length as X and E-series 6s and the older, pre-XF V8s, (ie T5, Toploader and single rail). I used an old Toploader iron bellhousing modified to suit the T5 bolt pattern, which was to suit the 164 tooth Clevo flywheel. It works, nothing broken yet.
 
If your bellhousing is the shorter input type, ie to suit the 6 cylinder T5s, I'd advise to use the EB2-ED ratio box with the 3.25 1st gear. Mine is shorter at 3.50 and it's a bit too short for my liking. The EB/ED boxes also have a taller 5th gear.
 
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Victory is mine!!!
 
Picked up a 3.23 LSD disc brake diff with the leaf springs etc. out of an XH for $600,,,,,,, and it comes with a free panelvan attached to it 😛

if it's not a rust bucket,  stick the 5 litre in it, and make an XH Sundowner . be MINT 
then buy another "parts car" so you can have another 5 projects.. ask @SPArKy_Dave if you aren't familiar. 
 

Victory is mine!!!
 
Picked up a 3.23 LSD disc brake diff with the leaf springs etc. out of an XH for $600,,,,,,, and it comes with a free panelvan attached to it 😛

There's alot to go through here and I'm guaranteed to miss something but the short answer is using a 6 cylinder t5 and a crs or modified 4 speed bellhousing will put the shifter through the stock hole in the floor, a factory xf t5 (or modified single rail) crossmember will work and a stock single rail (assuming stock diff) tailshaft will work, off the shelf headers will work too (factory eb-au ones are garbage and will interfere with a right hand starter
 
Windsors and Cleveland's have the same engine mounts and bellhousing pattern and their relationship to each other is the same for both engines, a Cleveland has a taller deck height and physically larger heads making a Cleveland taller and wider than a 302 Windsor bust slightly narrower than a 351 windsor ( 302 Windsor 8.2 inch deck height, Cleveland deck height 9.2 inches, 351 Windsor 9.5 inch deck height
 
The path of least resistance for what you want to do would be to use a 6 cyl t5 (preferably e series falcon) and a crs or modified stock bellhousing (you will have to get a flywheel to suit, make sure it is one that has a 50oz balance to suit the roller windsor, a stock or upgraded e series t5 clutch will work) with one of their trans mounts (or make your own) the rest of the stock driveline should work
 

Hey mate.
They used the EB engine harness and ECU and kept the XF dash wiring.
No smart lock but they did fit a new alarm demobiliser

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Hi All
 
Just providing some updates below for anyone interested in.
 
Fuel
I got an EFI tank including pump and cradle. This currenlty has 5\16" connections for fuel and return. As the AU falcon has a 3\8" I am going to move to this, will need some of 5\16" to 3\8" adaptor from pump to line. Also need to sort out quick connections on the motor. Will get this from TI performance as thats where I am getting the pump from.
 
Diff
I also sourced a diff from an EF falcon XR6. 3.45 lsd. So I will be doing a conversion to this. Have got the brake line adaptor. I have found few places that will do the handbrake cable for me as well, will share details when I get this done. I know I have to sort out the bushes on the arms as well for this, so will let you all know what the best solution was for this as well.
 
ECU\Harness
I am going to run the stock AU ECU with the ECU Harness. I went with the rod shop, who can modify the AU harness to fit the XF and provide step by step intructions for the install. Also getting a J3 chip from TI performance as well. So waiting for this to come in.
 
Gearbox
This one is hard. The v8 box is impossible to find and really expensive. So I currently have an XF falcon 5 speed, which I believe are pretty weak. The rod shop currently have bellhousing that can adapt the shorter input shaft of a 6cyl gearbox to the windsor motor. I am thinking of going with an E series manual t5 gearbox.
Anyone done this before and is it reliable? I know the ratios are different in the box as well, but keen to get some feedback around this? 
Also does anyone know if the XH ute gearbox is the stronger e-series box, or is the same t5 from the XF?
Also is the steel tailshaft from a ute the same as the sedan? 
 
Will keep you all posted on all of the above as I get more updates

Just measured up the NC exhaust and it is 2.5". I might be able to use some of it and some new bits and weld a new one up to suit the ute. Should have a hoist in by then.
 
 

It is a standard 2 1/4 into an itty bitty muffler that has "Sports Muffler" on it, so you know it's good 😜, and then straight out the back.
 
Funny you should say about drifting around roundabouts, one thing the old girl does well is slide. Really predictable, and a shite load of fun. She does have a lot of tyre back there!
 

Standard 5.0l diff ratio throughout all e series was 3.23, btr and t5 have the same od ratio (.68) v8 falcons, fairmont, fairlane and xr8 rarely had an lsd unless it was optioned that way series 2 el xr8 is the exception as the standard dif was 3.45 lsd, other 5.0l cars that came with 3.45 lsd standard were eb gt, ed sprint and el gt, e series didn't run a very large range of ratios (eb to el, most of ea also had 2.77 as they had bw 40 instead of btr 4 speed) 3.08 being the tallest and 3.45 being the lowest in the middle was mostly 3.23 but I have seen some 3.27, based on a standard height tyre 205 65 15 (this is just from memory so may be a little off)
3.08@ 100kph= 1700rpm
3.23/3.27@100kph= 2000rpm
3.45@ 100kph= 2200rpm
9 times our of 10 swapping to 3.45 in any e series (6 cyl or v8) would usually yield better fuel economy than the other ratios

The XR8 EB ran 3.23 (XR6 had 3.45) 
bloke i worked with fitted the 3.45 to his XR8 and said it was much better all round. 
I have a mate with a 3.45 auto 5 litre in EF and it's still cruisy and goes ok
depends what you are doing with it really. 
 
having the 5litre if it's got stock heads, they are not rocket ships, a GOOD mild crossflow would be on par or better performance wise. but the sound is what you want mainly. 
 
so I'd go 3.23 or 3.45 there's not much difference between the 2. in overdrive they'd be around 2000rpm at 100km in 5th for 3.23 and 2200 ish for 3.45 but you will get better take off with those two ratios than anything taller and if you used the auto it would probably be happier (manual might be happy with 3.08 ish) 
 
 
 

I'm no expert on ratio's, but with the extra gear in the 5 speed, I'd guess at 3.00 to 1. Anyone else.?? 
I'd be keen to find out myself, as I'm shoving a T5 in the XP.........
 
 
 
 
...one day.

As Dean said, no probs. Don't even have to cut the brackets off if they don't interfere with anything, just weld the spring perches on. Make sure you get the pinion angle correct. 
 

yeah be just worn, OR wrong oil, or maybe needs new oil
 
the ute diff if standard will be 25 spline and the NC diff 28 spline axles
 
drum backing plate has a different orientation on the bolt up pattern(have seen this welded and redrilled on the alloy backing plate for caliper mount.
 
wagon LSD is rare  EAEB ED EF EL(ef el brakes are a bit harder to make the hand brake work from memory and the brake lines)
 
XG and XH ute diffs in LSD are more common and probably your best chance of finding one ready to just bolt in.
your engineer will want discs on rear most likely. 
 
diffs with lsd and discs used to be easy to find in many ratios.. the newest one that will bolt straight in is 25yrs old nearly (XH )

if you don't want to even buy perches it's been done like this(flat plate welded across cut off mounts with locating hole in the middle)