Boingk

It only took under a week to get my stickers from new jersey and they are pretty close match except i fkd up on the rocker cover decal shes a 73 one i just took a gamble the engine is a 73 but if it turns out its a 72 i will just re order the correct one im really starting to get interrsted in american fords there is so much out there to sus out

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a lot of companys now make a dial your own flywheel and or balancer ,just add the weights provided,none,28 or fifty.,i finaly finished the engine today and put it on e bay for a fair price so i can go and pick up my 400

All Ford smallblocks are externally balanced (perhaps not the Y-block....@Thom ?). If you look on the back of the flywheel, it will have a lump cast into it that lines up with the crank counterweight between the rear rod journals. The same goes for the lump cast inside the balancer and the front counterweight, which will be 180 deg out from the rear.

Both balancer and flywheel will always need a matched external balance: either 28oz or 50oz at each end, never a combo of the two. The required balance depends on what crank you use, not the engine. If you use a later model crank, it will need a 50oz flywheel/flexplate and balancer.

They went to 50oz (up from 28oz) from 1982 onwards, to bring them inline with the 351W which got it a few years earlier. They did this to reduce the amount of material and internal counterweighting and give the crank less rotating mass.

The reason for external balancing is that you can correct an imbalance with a smaller counterweight further from the source (ie: the crank throws and rods) to achieve the same balancing effect as a much heavier crank counterweight closer to the source. More leverage if you like.

A neutral balance 157 tooth flywheel is for a 6 cylinder or a specially made, internally balanced (ie expensive) V8 crank.



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Yeah don't mess with a trainwreck mate, it might be a good shed or historically accurate reco piece but I wouldn't try chucking it on an engine.
 
Get a used 600 core and put a kit through it for the vacuum diaphragm, accel pump, seats, o-rings and bowl gaskets. Squirt the rest out with carb cleaner and compressed air. You'll be into it for about $200.

Yeah been killing time at the park and reading about them, they were only used for a short time then switched to a *cough* Rochester.... Yep!

The more I read, the more I think it might be not worth fucking with. They were very problematic by the sounds of it. Flat spots that can't be tuned out, fuel percolation, etc. If Ford had to buy in a GM carby to fix the issue, it mustn't be a great unit to start with.

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Hey i just found out that this 4 barrel one is a 600cfm 4300A model used up to 1976 maybe worth recoing and put on the 400

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Pull them and mic them up mate, see how they are in terms of wear limits etc. Same goes for bores.

Ok they fit much better imo ,dummy fitted the manifold and without any bolts have about 10 thou between cork gasket and intake so should be fine when tourqued down also i think this is the right way for the carby to face ? With fuel fitting towards front

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That Motorcraft 2 barrel looks smick on there, do you know what size it is? There are 4 or so different sizes, the Venturi diameter is stamped on the float bowl apparently. There are listings of CFM ratings for each size available.

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Just jam a $600 nitrous kit onto her and go to the track, she'll be right!
 
In all seriousness, the Motortrend 'Engine Masters' segment did a good shootout for the Performer RPM, Weiand and Procomp high-rise dual plane manifolds. The RPM and Weiand traded blows with about 1hp between them, and the Procomp was about 10hp down... mind you it was on a 450hp engine so probably fine under 400hp or so.
 
For $280 shipped the Procomp listing looks like a steal.
 
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Ford-SB-260-289-302-Windsor-Eliminator-Intake-Manifold-Satin/372403843878?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

By the time you buy a blower carb and modify the bonnet (reverse cowl) plus the blower itself you are really into some cash.


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the gt40p ports are definatly bigger than the older 302 ones.

just orderd correct new air cleaner sticker and rocker cover emissions sticker from u.s.a.

Ah, right you are. Probably won't matter to much in that case. If you're super anal about it you could trim them but if the main overlap is in the head to manifold water passage you should be fine from both a leak and performance point of view.
 
Mind you if you've got the correct ones coming in I'd wait for them. Hell, you paid for them right? Unless you want to do an intake swap in the future, then use the current ones and stash the proper set.

As for firing order I believe there was a concern that the frontmost cam bearing was copping too much of a flogging, what with the chain and firing order and all. So they changed it to the 351 order with the next major redesign and that was that.

Nice one mate, an original carb would be worth running on it even just for simplicity sake. I wouldn't use a 350 Holley as they are really only a 250cfm job by 4bbl rating standards, and the 500 is a 375cfm by that measure. Check for yourself and you'll see the 500 has the same venturi diameter as a 750cfm 4bbl.
 
I've used 350's on Ford 250's and Chrysler 245's and they don't work too well there, needing substantial rejetting and tweaking. If you can get a 500 go for that, otherwise a 4bbl with an adaptor would be better than a Holley 350.
 
 - boingk

I'd go the ones in the top picture, the ones that clear the ports a bit all around, looks like they fit better especially around the coolant passage. I haven't dealt with wet manifolds before but presume you want a pretty good seal there to save leaks and stuffing around later.

As for firing order I believe there was a concern that the frontmost cam bearing was copping too much of a flogging, what with the chain and firing order and all. So they changed it to the 351 order with the next major redesign and that was that.

Nice one mate, an original carb would be worth running on it even just for simplicity sake. I wouldn't use a 350 Holley as they are really only a 250cfm job by 4bbl rating standards, and the 500 is a 375cfm by that measure. Check for yourself and you'll see the 500 has the same venturi diameter as a 750cfm 4bbl.
 
I've used 350's on Ford 250's and Chrysler 245's and they don't work too well there, needing substantial rejetting and tweaking. If you can get a 500 go for that, otherwise a 4bbl with an adaptor would be better than a Holley 350.
 
 - boingk

Lookin' good matey! You going to see how she runs just like that? I'd be pretty tempted so long as the carby's up to scratch, or swap out for a 2bbl 500 if you have one handy.

I just battled 3 hrs traffic to grab this 1970 mustang 302 manifold n carby the add said just manifold but the guy gave me the lot carby been reco too

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Nice one mate, it's its a 10.2 you're cheering, re ring and bearing and stab a camshaft in her while you're at it! 
 
I can hear it now, with that Action+ on it and an E-907-P... 

Pic

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ok i bought the motor ,and found out its a DIF casting for dearborn foundry ,see picture maybe gerg can work out the casting date,look to me like 1e20 if thats correct its a first cab off the rank and 10.2.1,i took the air cleaner home,has nice vac original dizzy on it too,the seller said dont tell me too much about the engine or the price is going up so action man slapped the cash down.

Cast don't work with P heads to my knowledge mate, the plugs have dramas with them. Factory headers or modifying tube steel aftermarket is the best bet. Factory headers for the AU sucked though, spindly buggers designed out of the US to cope with about 220hp from the Mustang GT. We need a tad more for our application. I'm looking for a 'clipster' style header that may work with modificiation.
 
For the dizzy I've been able to find this:
 
***
"It turns out that, no matter what the guy at the Ford parts counter and the kid at Schucks tell you, 302 and 351W distributors are NOT interchangeable, and the diameter of the distributor shaft in the 5.0 H.O. varies -- the 1987 and up 5.0, and 351W, shafts are .51" diameter, and the pre-1987 5.0 and 302 shafts are .49" diameter. The later dizzys will NOT fit the earlier blocks. Period.

Plus, the diameter of the hex driver for the oil pump varies from year to year, as well. Because of the sump location in the 1978 pan -- I had to use the '78 oil pan because of tranny clearance issues in my Mustang II -- I had to use the 1978 oil pump, which uses a 1/4" drive shaft, not the 5/16" shaft on the 1987-up blocks. Mallory et al do not appear to make a small-shaft 5.0 distributor; much less one that fits the 1/4" oil pump driver. At least, not that I'm aware of."
***
 
So earlier shafts are smaller, later ones are larger, and the oil drives are slightly different. But if looks like for our application all that should be the same.
 
Again, I don't see why we can't simply stab a dizzy in. Why would they change the block, from a financial mega-corp 'cent save is dollars earned' point of view, when they have to make a new part anyway and can simply design it to suit to existing block?
 
I think the biggest issue we have is the steel gear - make sure you have the right gear for the (hyd roller) cam, as per usual.