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Boingk got a reaction from CHESTNUTXE in CLEVELAND ENGINE TALK
Would this help for the sticker mate?
https://cgfordparts.com/ufolder/fordpart.php?number=DF763
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Boingk got a reaction from CHESTNUTXE in CLEVELAND ENGINE TALK
Most hyd cams will just need a standard cast gear. Check with the manufacturer though.
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Boingk got a reaction from CHESTNUTXE in CLEVELAND ENGINE TALK
Hi-res photo of the sticker, as flat as possible in orientation. Measure for size and include the measurements in the photo you send. Make sure they're the right sort, eg metric or imperial.
Surely that will get you sorted.
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Boingk got a reaction from CHESTNUTXE in CLEVELAND ENGINE TALK
Also, if you're looking at pistons... you know the 351C is almost identical, right? The 400 has a 0.9753 pin and the 351C has a 0.912" pin. You could get the rod bushed, or have the piston reamed to the right size. May end up cheaper than a crazy bespoke set - ask your machinist.
Like this thing: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/SPEED-PRO-020-FLAT-TOP-HYPEREUTECTIC-PISTONS-SPH555CP-020-SUIT-FORD-351C-V8/162024943750?epid=868136172&hash=item25b9707086:g:xA0AAOSwbeBdVfhV:sc:AU_StarTrackExpress!2880!AU!-1&frcectupt=true
The comp height is 1.645 as well, which would help. Most of the cheaper ones for the 400 seem to have a 1.630 height.
- boingk
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Boingk got a reaction from CHESTNUTXE in CLEVELAND ENGINE TALK
From experience, go the lowest overbore you can. You never know what you'll run into, and if there's a core shift or thin wall, or even a casting defect you'll be better off the less material you remove.
If the bore is 7-ish over and the pistons 1 under you'll get 4 thou wall clearance. Sure, its not ideal, but you could easily do a light hone and chuck it back together with new rings and bearings.
If you want to keep it I'd see if they do a 20 over piston. If thats an option see what they do in the basic rebuilders specials and go from there. Like you said before, even if they have a dish on them we have the luxury of the magic 302C head to help boost compression.
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Boingk reacted to CHESTNUTXE in CLEVELAND ENGINE TALK
There just could be an easier option just fkn order the 8/71 dyers blower drive kit from america 😂 cause it will be low comp without touching anything ,and put that scott inj hat on it,wait where is my credit card.
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Boingk reacted to CHESTNUTXE in CLEVELAND ENGINE TALK
1st thing is just get the block cleaned and make sure its not cracked ,olm8 reckons its pretty good from just a first look,but no rush ,i gave him the old cam to dummy fit to make sure the cam bearings are right,but i have total faith in him,he has done all my engines.
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Boingk got a reaction from CHESTNUTXE in CLEVELAND ENGINE TALK
Yep, do the math. Easiest way is to chuck it together with crank, liberally lubed bearings and a piston, then measure the height to the deck surface when at TDC for that cylinder.
Then measure the deck height for that piston. Then compare it to the one you are looking at. Now calculate the rest and you're good.
If you don't have a calculator for it I'd highly recommend an app called 'Virtual Dyno', the icon is a black-faced tach with a yellow bar at the bottom. Its about $1 but works nicely. Its modelled off the desktop 'Dyno 2000' with a few tweaks by the creator to get it closer to real-world results.
If you don't want to do that just PM me and I'll have a shot for you.
- boingk
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Boingk got a reaction from CHESTNUTXE in CLEVELAND ENGINE TALK
Yep, do the math. Easiest way is to chuck it together with crank, liberally lubed bearings and a piston, then measure the height to the deck surface when at TDC for that cylinder.
Then measure the deck height for that piston. Then compare it to the one you are looking at. Now calculate the rest and you're good.
If you don't have a calculator for it I'd highly recommend an app called 'Virtual Dyno', the icon is a black-faced tach with a yellow bar at the bottom. Its about $1 but works nicely. Its modelled off the desktop 'Dyno 2000' with a few tweaks by the creator to get it closer to real-world results.
If you don't want to do that just PM me and I'll have a shot for you.
- boingk
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Boingk reacted to gerg in CLEVELAND ENGINE TALK
302 heads sound the goods, but beware of what the comp height is, plus gasket thickness, dish and head cc. Make sure you do your homework, especially with a torque cam that has big cylinder pressure in the midrange. If the piston top is anything more than 10 below deck, consider it open chamber and reduce target compression accordingly.
Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
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Boingk reacted to bear351c in CLEVELAND ENGINE TALK
As far as I recall, the XD became the first "Metric" blocks, (5.8 instead of 351), and they changed to electronic ignition, and used a metric diameter dizzy. Not much else changed inside though, all the journals were still Imperial, I reckon.
typical Clevo issue, cracked manifolds......Custom headers are gonna be expensive, maybe find yourself a good welding company. Can be fixed, but needs some experience.
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Boingk got a reaction from Thom in CLEVELAND ENGINE TALK
Looking good mate, and yeah always punt them down into the block when you can. The mushroomed edges (even on a microscopic level) will mar the lifter bores.
I use old pushrods and a plastic mallet, seems to do the trick pretty well.
- boingk
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Boingk reacted to CHESTNUTXE in CLEVELAND ENGINE TALK
4 pistons out and cyl walls look good with minor lip i would say maybe medium mileage but it gets better gerg is gunna love this check the factory notch for bigger valves typical early cleveland casting
Sent from my SM-G570Y using Tapatalk
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Boingk got a reaction from Thom in CLEVELAND ENGINE TALK
Looking good mate, and yeah always punt them down into the block when you can. The mushroomed edges (even on a microscopic level) will mar the lifter bores.
I use old pushrods and a plastic mallet, seems to do the trick pretty well.
- boingk
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Boingk got a reaction from Thom in CLEVELAND ENGINE TALK
Looking good mate, and yeah always punt them down into the block when you can. The mushroomed edges (even on a microscopic level) will mar the lifter bores.
I use old pushrods and a plastic mallet, seems to do the trick pretty well.
- boingk
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Boingk got a reaction from Thom in CLEVELAND ENGINE TALK
Looking good mate, and yeah always punt them down into the block when you can. The mushroomed edges (even on a microscopic level) will mar the lifter bores.
I use old pushrods and a plastic mallet, seems to do the trick pretty well.
- boingk
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Boingk reacted to CHESTNUTXE in CLEVELAND ENGINE TALK
i also saw a thing on a hagerty rebuild to nock the lifters down out of the block not to damage the lifter bores ,as they dont want to come out easy from the top ,tomorrow will take the timing cover plate off ,timing chain and cam,also will try to find the dizzy gear which has come off the dizzy shaft lets hope it hasnt fkd anything,but engine does spin smoothly.
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Boingk reacted to gerg in CLEVELAND ENGINE TALK
Shut the gates on this one Maxxy, she's the ducks guts!
Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
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Boingk got a reaction from CHESTNUTXE in CLEVELAND ENGINE TALK
"she sucks nitro through a phase four head - 600 horse through the wheels!"
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Boingk got a reaction from CHESTNUTXE in CLEVELAND ENGINE TALK
"she sucks nitro through a phase four head - 600 horse through the wheels!"
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Boingk reacted to CHESTNUTXE in CLEVELAND ENGINE TALK
come on max you've seen it ,you.ve heard it,and your still asking questions 😂
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Boingk got a reaction from CHESTNUTXE in CLEVELAND ENGINE TALK
Huge win mate, looks the goods.
You sure can tell thats a tall decker block with those long pushrods though.
Keen to see what you do with her!
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Boingk reacted to bear351c in CLEVELAND ENGINE TALK
You'll have to explain that comment to the younger folk.......... 🤣
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Boingk got a reaction from CHESTNUTXE in CLEVELAND ENGINE TALK
Nice mate, very cool! Love the renewed stickers and decas available now. I was only watching a Hagerty rebuild on youtube the otherday and he was putting a repro 'Thriftpower' decal on an old Chev 6cyl motor.