Boingk

Very tidy. I'd love a wagon with those seats, and the 302 reminds me of my mates - he got it for a few hunge from a local bloke who had it in the yard for 20 years. We tore it down and miked it up... and low and behold its on the tight side of factory clearances. WTF? Huge score!

but the best xe i ever scored was this chestnut from bathurst ,i still cant belive no body even went out there to look at it,i caught a plane from gold coast to sydney then train to bathurst,ended up there at 4pm that afternoon from 7.30 am flight in morning,did the deal and drove it home paid $3300 for it ,and at the time i reckon i paid about 500 to much for it😣but made it home to the goldy in 1 go and couple tanks of gas,only had 127,000kms,t bar 4.1 air and steer,but i had this thought of if i cant afford a genuine ESP then at least get a colour code correct car and have a go,so about 8 months later finding a matching 5/82 pillow block std bore just fluked the short 302c for 300 bux the guy didnt even no what he had,then found a sierra tan esp interior off another member on here ,actually painted the car with spray cans no bullshit ,only original paint i left was the top of the bootlid and roof,the rest i just rubbed down and went thru about 8 cans of 2k chestnut lol,found a set of genuine esp wheels ,dash ect,and in the end the most rust free xe i have ever seen i mean i fixed nothing in the end had people fighting over it on e bay i figured if i could get $14k back i would be stoked but ended up getting $22500 🤣,so just goes to show what can be done when you have a plan and a cans of paint .

Nice one. I'm doing the same with my ute, sell the bits and throw the eight in. Also a shame, but hey we're in it for the thrills.

about to fuk the crossflow off and put a 400 clevo in the ute

22kg 150g

Olm8 has the pistons and the block is cleaned will update with pics

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Slap it together and feed it the gas mate, she'll be right.
 
*cracks open VB longneck*
 
SEND IT!

Looks like 2v closed is the go then. These will be too much cc with opens plus 80 down the hole

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Weyland industries kindly donated this nice manifold

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Looking good from the photos, honestly that crank seems fine at least how I'm seeing it. If you can't catch a fingernail on any of the scratches they should be okay to use. I linished mine with some strips of 1200 grit and WD40, not sure if it even did anything but they look and feel okay so I'll take some measurements and chuck it back in.
 
The real nightmare was my crossflow... that thing was hammered and the crank looked very much less than ideal but again no fingernail catch so I slapped it in, ran 20W-60 and spun it up to 6,000rpm. Still holding 50psi oil pressure, too.

Yep, they sound good alright. This was my Effy:
 
 

3.45 with a standard stall would be a bit of a hoot, but if it were mine I'd rock 2.92s and go a bigger stall. Power when you want it and still cruise when you need to. 

i will go down the machine shop thismorning and check on progress on cleaning the block,i told him no rush as he was 2 weeks behind in his schedual of work ,but here is the six million dollar question what colour am i going to paint this thing ? i want to get as close as possible to the blue it was from the factory,from bc paints do a good cleveland /windsor blue in a can on e bay thats seems almost the same as what it was,i will only need 2 cans max,i want this to be the best looking engine i have ever built,mean and beefy,im going to use the std power by ford covers,but will i need the small spacer under the covers to clear the bolt on roller rockers,i think so,im gunna have to look into that petrinox dizzy thing as i would like to use my msd  that is bolted up to my spruce goose money pit crossy which is gunna get chucked in the river soon if i cant get it running better,i will put the crossy aside for a while and concentrate on the 400 conversion,only main concern is some fab work needs to be done to the engine mounts to fit on our chassis plates,my block has 3 bosses that have not been drilled ,but ford made it a pain in the ass and did not put the 4th boss ,but where there is a will there is a way ,closest engine mount is a 1972 american fairlane mount that can be modded slightly to fit into xa/xf or drill the bosses on the block and try and make a bracket for the 4th one,or you can put a spacer under the v8 chassis plates and raise the plate up about half an inch and pictures i have seen on another site worked in a xe ute but bonnet only just closed,still chewing the fat on that conversion.

Shouldnt need the manifold shaved unless you're taking a fair bit off the heads and block. I had 10 thou off my 351 heads and didn't worry the manifold at all.

2V opens? Got a good set here if you get stuck. They'd need freight, would be about 50~60 bucks, but would do a good deal on them for you mate as otherwise they're just sitting in the shed.
 
I'd still run the closed, compression and quench be damned. You're after a torqe-monster everydayer with a bit of mongrel when you lay into it, am I right? 10 to 10.5 to 1 should be fine with the 302C heads even if they do function as an 'open' with the deck height.  If you're higher than that I'd be worried, but as it is you should be okay. Just don't crank the overall timing too crazy and you'll be fine.

2V opens? Got a good set here if you get stuck. They'd need freight, would be about 50~60 bucks, but would do a good deal on them for you mate as otherwise they're just sitting in the shed.
 
I'd still run the closed, compression and quench be damned. You're after a torqe-monster everydayer with a bit of mongrel when you lay into it, am I right? 10 to 10.5 to 1 should be fine with the 302C heads even if they do function as an 'open' with the deck height.  If you're higher than that I'd be worried, but as it is you should be okay. Just don't crank the overall timing too crazy and you'll be fine.

It'll be 12:1 if you had an 8cc dome, but with the dish it's 10:1.
 
For a 'best case' scenario with that same combo and an ideal stock spec 67 though height, minus a max of 7 off after cleanup, so 60 thou piston to deck, you're looking at 10.5 to 1 compression. 
 
 

Righteo, so 4x4 stroke and bore with a range of 67 to 80 thou down the hole, a 78.8cc head and 40 thou gasket...
 
... youre looking at a best case scnario of 9.17:1 and a worst case scenario of 8.96:1 with 80 down the hole.
 
A closed chamber 302 head at 58cc gives you a range of 11.3:1 to 10.96:1 with the same deck depths.
 
If you have 8cc dish pistons its more like 10:1 with a 58cc head and 80 thou depth.
 
What pistons you have will govern what you want to run, but I'd be going with the 302C heads regardless. 10:1 is going to open up your camshafts a lot better than 9:1, it'll go better and be easier on the juice, too.
 
Weiand intake and E-907-P here we come!
 
 - boingk

yep last one i bought it

i just sold the windsor for $2k maybe i should buy that weiand manifold while they are on special at rocket $400 seems good price ?

The water pump is from a 77 truck (D7TE)

Don't go near the Procomp roller rockers. The risk of one letting go and spraying needle rollers through the engine is just not worth it.

Rockers are something you simply can't skimp on... I'm a massive tightarse but was fortunate enough to have (nearly) a set of Scorpions donated to me by my brother. If I had to buy my own, it would have been them or Steet Terras, despite them being triple the price of ProChumps.

If you can't splash out for USA or Oz made rollers, you'll be better off with stockers, especially if only going with mild springs. Just use a good quality zinc oil with them.

The hardened seats will add a lot to the cost of recoing the heads. Seriously, get all of the quotes for the work needed and weigh up if a set of Edelbrock alloys are something you can stretch to. Mine were $1150 for new K-lines where needed, head service, shave 0.025, and machine guide tops for press-on seals. I supplied springs and retainers, so total cost would be around $1500 for everything, and mine already had hardened seats and good valves. If you need them, that's getting up towards 2 grand.

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If your getting machine shop to skim the heads get them go over valves and check if they in spec. Do it right the first time it’s not like these engines are sitting in every wrecking yard in australia.


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Hey mate I ran standard (fresh) springs and rockers for my camshaft and it was fine. Its nothing massive, about equivalent to the 'states 351C Boss Mustang motor actually. The ramps on that particular cam are very gentle, too, at 310 degrees advertised for 219@50 so probably nothing more than about 110lb spring closed and 280ish open. I think that is about what they recommend, too. I wouldn't go roller unless you want to mess with the ratio or you have to buy some anyway.
 
Retainers I'd be tempted to go aftermarket, even a cheap set would probably be better than old stuff. Match the diameter to your springs and you're good to go. Mind you, you could temper the original ones.... hmm...

Generic picture, the actual cam is a hydraulic flat tappet. I used the standard cheap Elgin replacement lifters, too, worked just fine.

Hey mate good progress.
 
If you're going with the open chambers you want the piston as close to the deck as possible while achieving desired compression, up to about 10:1 or so.
 
Good info on the intake and camshaft, I'd also recommend the Elgin E-907-P I had in my 351, similar to the Crow you mention just a bit more meat. That thing just pulled everywhere and was a hoot to drive, decent economy as well.
 
Here's a link:
 
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/ELGIN-Performance-Camshaft-E-907-P-for-Ford-351C-351M-400-V8-505-505/263326307722?epid=227443570&hash=item3d4f78958a:g:KP0AAOSwqhlc-nEZ&frcectupt=true
 
 - boingk