deankxf

1 hour ago, Rayinsydney said:

Also, if its the starter, is it just the terminals and two bolts to get it out or more sorcery?.

 

I'm a mechanical numpty so please use simple words

 

starter on an XF is probably the easiest car in the world to remove, 2 mounting bolts, fat cable from the battery and the trigger wire 

if it works when you tap on it, then it's the common "cheaper to replace" but fixable issue the later starter motors work. gear reduction type. personally if there's a local auto electrician that rebuilds them i'd have it rebuilt, in My opinion they last heaps longer than the newer ones (new ones are lighter with gear reduction offering more power and lighter/smaller package)

if you have to hold it in park to start it, this is adjustable from memory (try it in neutral first) could just be worn shifter bushes etc making the adjustment out. 

@SPArKy_Dave might make it simpler to understand

11 minutes ago, Crebe said:

I have an EB 5LT (XR8 according to the ecu) in my 66 xr ute. Have spent a zillion dollars on a custom tank with holley retro module and 95% new lines and fittings. The only thing not replaced was the regulator and fuel rails?also injectors. Since getting it back on the road I Have found its surging even under a little bit of load. This is at worse when cold and almost gone when warmed.. Has anyone got some sugestions that may point to the problem or is it a merry go round of testing and replacing. Any help or advice is appreciated.

if it has an airflow meter (assume so? mates EL V8 does) i'd start there, try cleaning it with some spray or borrow/swap another in. 

i had this with the pulsar i had a few years back, (same type but smaller size)

otherwise, @SPArKy_Dave and @Thom are the resident EFi 5litre gurus may reply later with more to check

bumping this for new members

57 minutes ago, Harrison Kotrolos said:

Any advice is welcome.

 

Also, where should I make a thread to track the engine rebuild and ask any questions I might have?

 

Thanks,

Harry

I can't advise any oil pressure numbers, it's likely listed in the gregorys etc though, 

feel free to start a project thread to document anything you do in the build. 

i could retitle this thread as your own even if it's mostly crossflow related 

@SPArKy_Dave may have more info, as he does checks like this due to being more meticulous. (I've either got someone to reco a full engine or chucked in a second hand one, and that's usually not oil pressure related, just extreme wear overall)

2 hours ago, waderobertson said:

Split the nut to find the middle 1/3 of the thread on the selector shaft is munched... hence the spinning and going nowhere! Fuck it all. Will try and clean it up a bit with thread file and bang a couple lock washers on there. Just dropped the engine and trans back in yesterday so really don't want to replace the shaft. 

looks to be some decent thread there still if you can stack a couple of good washers on the outside of the selector arm and then fit a new nut where the ok threads are. 

2 hours ago, waderobertson said:

https://imgur.com/a/OK4MIGk

 

Just trying to get this nut off... might be threaded because its turning but going nowhere. 

bugger, should just unscrew in the normal direction, looks crimped over like a lock nut which i don't remember it looking like that (might be the wrong nut sent home cross threaded?)

3 hours ago, waderobertson said:

Trying to replace leaking selector seal, how do I get the bloody nut off? Think I read a post way back that said the nut requires a special tool or a simple hack I'm unaware of?

 

Cheers.

i thought it just came undone (lefty loosey) and the shifter rod came off?
@SPArKy_Dave any tips

42 minutes ago, CHESTNUTXE said:

Yes something like that I read somewhere,maybe I will try that when I do springs on my car.also what if the ef has the balancer on the shaft ?

pretty sure i've used them as is. i didn't notice any difference but panko said it was better with it in his XF

49 minutes ago, CHESTNUTXE said:

ive also heard use a AU watts link arms as it bolts more to the centre of the diff cover of coarse you need the diff cover as well,anyone else no about this.

i think the mounting point for watts link is lower on the AU diff, which better suits the XE XF watts link when you lower the car. 

(don't think the arms themselves are swapped)

4 hours ago, jamie247 said:

Was thinking getting new brake lines made up and just attach front xe cable to ef cable hopefully it'll be all good 

the handbrakes only differ due to the EF having the hand brake mounted next to the console from memory. 

the only one i remember seeing the person cut the cables about where the back of the fronts seats would be and joined there with cable joiners. you'll soon see what's needed once you mount it up as much as you can

30 minutes ago, jamie247 said:

Hi lads , got an EF XR6 3.45 and driveshaft, what needs doing to fit to xe, trailing arm bush to e series diff end, everything thing else should bolt in i was told, what can be done with handbrake as the whole brake system/calipers is way different to x series 

if you can run the brake lines on the XE to how they are on the EF that's one way, or you can do them on the diff similar to the XE XF way also seen it done both ways, (no pics handy) and the EF lines on the XE looked easier

handbrake you'd be best getting a new one custom made, back in the day (20yrs ago) i was quotes $120 from ABS brakes to make one, these days you'd be surely double that if anyone has the brains to do it.

you can cut and join the cable with cable clamps and make a hybrid of the 2 in the short term and prove it works before getting the cable made up also. 

tailshaft will fit if it's a sedan XE and Sedan (not fairlane/LTD) EF (would be if XR6 sedan, not if wagon )

8 hours ago, SPArKy_Dave said:

Left to Right - Koni 82-1742SP4, Pedders Comfort Gas, Genuine Ford, Pedders Sportsrider

can see the FATNESS of the koni and the pedders, this makes all the difference, CONTROLLING THE SPRING. the white pedders i've had in a standard height car and they are great for stock height upgrade in my opinion

8 hours ago, SPArKy_Dave said:

 

 @CHESTNUTXE's replica ESP -

 

bump steer city,. 
if you drive it in Melburbs and on the highway it will not be a pleasure to drive compared to LOWS. (also looks too low to Me also)

Just now, SPArKy_Dave said:

 

Just do what all the kool kids do - have it sitting on the bump stops.

Can't run out of travel, if there is none...

 

some people like to drive their cars

4 hours ago, SPArKy_Dave said:

 

If u can, share a pic of the wagon, showing how it sits.

Sounds like it's smacking the front bump stops, and/or the shocks are running out of travel.

King Lows with crap standard shocks ots very likely hitting bump stops .if the bump stops have been cut its likely bottom out the shock also 

1 hour ago, Rayinsydney said:

Cheers for that, front springs are new Kings, I'll have  a look on Ebay for the shocks then,  much appreciated.

what height are the new kings? LOW or Superlow  (2" sounds like low which should drive well)

some wheel aligners wouldn't even guarantee the tyres wouldn't scrub with superlows fitted back in the day. 

did you check all other parts of the suspension also and get a good alignment (ideally pedders in my experience )

3 hours ago, Rayinsydney said:

Hello, 

A question on shocks, I've lowered my XE Wagon, 2" and so far have kept it with standard shocks, it rides ok but is quite crash and bang on any bumps etc.

 

I've not had a Falcon before this one so not sure what to expect, is this normal or should it be 'softer' , if so, what the recommendation for changing the shocks out with some more suited to the new ride height?

 

Any recommendations are appreciated, 

 

cheers, 

 

Ray.

the rears are fine with standard shocks

the fronts are best with big bore lowered shocks (ultima brand on ebay are the cheapest that seem to be ok) 

i've always used second hand big bore pedders and loved them, koni even better if you have the budget. 

what springs did you fit? cutting stock springs = in the bin

buy king or pedders etc, 
you don't end up with much bump stop clearance with even LOW springs (approx 2" ) and Super Low you'll have to cut the bump stop down a bit also in most cases. . super lows = bump steer, (handles like a billy cart in my opinion) so LOWs are the lowest i ended up going in the end. 

lowering blocks in the back are fine at 2" generally with no issue with standard shocks. 

2 hours ago, iamaelephant said:

. I'll also re-do the caliper slides. Is there any lubricant you recommend for the slides? I used molygrease but maybe it needs something more specialised?

i know when i did those slides i wouldn't have had anything other than wheel bearing grease or never seize (silver stuff) and from memory that's what i used (silver anti seize)

Just make sure they slide in the holders easily (they get like a slot worn in them being alloy, i remember ditching one of the retaining clips once and just letting it sit there held by the pins) anti seize the pins also, make sure they slide easily. 

if the rubber hose from the diff to the caliper is original and 40yrs old it could be the issue also, swelling under pressure and not bleeding back (i guess if you wanted to risk it, swap it left to right, but these can also be the source of much pain in the backside undoing the rusty nuts on the line)

I got charged $400 once due to "getting a mechanic" to do the job because i didn't want to.. i told them i'd have bought another diff if it was that hard and had a go at them (was a weeks wages back then). they said it was the worst day of their lives lol..but it's fixed now properly with warranty. grr i never had issues again at least

14 minutes ago, iamaelephant said:

These callipers are really doing my head in - this must be the worst-designed part I have worked with.

Any advice for getting this seal done? If I try attaching it to the piston first I thought I would be able to push it down into its internal groove, but I am struggling to do so. I don't see any way I could insert it into the internal groove then fit the bottom of the piston through the seal. What am I missing here?

 

Also yeah I know the piston is pretty chewed up. Half of that damage was done before I started, other half is struggling with adjustable pliers getting the damn thing out. The sealing surfaces still look fine.

it should be in the gregorys manual, i don't have one available, and i haven't ever pulled one of these apart. 

@SPArKy_Dave may help. 

i feel your pain, i preferred drum brakes after dealing with these. 

33 minutes ago, ashXFute said:

 

I've started having some minor issues with the cluster in my XF.

 

I've had it out previously to replace the odo gears and fixed that issue but now I've got some other seemingly electric issues cropping up.

 

1) The temp sensor climbs and jumps around. Or will just sit at half where it normally evens out.

 

2) occasionally the dash will lose all illumination and sensors. Found a quick tap on the front can bring it back.

 

3) dash loses all sensor display and then just shows clock. Last time came up with Er 2 code before showing clock again.

 

 

From research I suspect old/dry connections are most likely the issue. This will be a cluster out and investigate. I will also be attempting to clean and re-solder joins. If any one has any advice please comment to help out.

I will also take pictures and ad them in as a guide for the future

 

Sent from my SM-S908E using Tapatalk

 

 

 

@Seamus just fixed his with My guidance in his thread.  
check out this page on his thread, (toot toot chugga chugga big red car)
feel free to make a how to thread out of all the info and i'll make it a sticky (i don't have time, but basically everything is covered in that link including bad solder joints likely with yours as ZKFAIRLANE mentions in there 
 

3 hours ago, bear351c said:

 

I dunno, Dean,  the XC/XD rears are PITA as well. Must be close second.....

yeah now you mention it, i broke my first pointy nose pliers turning in the piston on one, then got the correct tool and broke that also (had to fix it, then screw the piston in the correct rotation )

4 minutes ago, iamaelephant said:

Arg I tried screwing it back and the seal twisted up, I think it's toast. Not easy to find kits for these. 

they are the most asshole of any of the ford calipers

the handbrake levers often seize up also.

@SPArKy_Dave may know where to get the kits and the tool also for winding them out
i've always had enough spares i've swapped them(15yrs ago was the last one) 
i think i traded 6 crap ones for 2 reco ones once also. 

25 minutes ago, iamaelephant said:

Thanks mate really helpful. One more question, is there a trick to pushing the piston back into this caliper?

yes, it screws back
there's a tool for it, but at a pinch i've used multi grips and or the square ends of a normal plier set to slot in the notches to turn it. 

i have a feeling left and right are turned in different directions (left hand thread on one i think)
@Mr Polson may be able to confirm and link to the tool 

19 minutes ago, iamaelephant said:

Is anyone able to help me identify this caliper exactly so I can order a rebuild kit?

its the same caliper as an XE XF fairmont ghia

ZK or ZL fairlane would be the best to search for probably or FD FE LTD

those bolt hex's if you turn them and they don't turn the bush in the caliper mount they should come out. (grab with vice grips and twist and pull is best with heaps of spray where they go into the slide) 

asshole of things, i've cut them off in the past(when i had spares)

here's what they look like removed from the caliper bracket and fitted back into the slides 

16 minutes ago, Crebe said:

Deankfx, thanks mate. Yep I turn electrical stuff into smoke and broken bits you cant buy. Hope i can make the rite decision to either pull it apart or just put up with it.

i'd find another motor, can't be that hard to find another 
if i get a chance i'll type how to fix wiper park position into youtube, i'm sure it's been an issue before

1 hour ago, Crebe said:

Further to what i have just said, after cleaning some crap and overspray paint off the arm where it connects to the motor unit, it turns out it may be on a sline as it now looks round not oval. Just have to hope the wD40 gets in enough to let me pry it off!

there must be an electrical connector that does something in the "park" position but i've never pulled one apart to see how they work