deankxf

33 minutes ago, Stumps said:

I measured up the input shaft its the 6 cylinder one 167mm, the V8 one would of been 20mm longer if I remember correctly.

 

Doesnt really matter at the end of the day...a T5 is a T5, it'll break once I put some power through it....wish I could be as certain on winning lotto.

if you rebuilt it before breaking it, or it's in good condition to begin with, it will handle a fair amount of power. 

the V6 commo input shaft bearing is supposed to be an upgrade, but i don't know how it's fitted (is it full box teardown etc?)

3 hours ago, CHESTNUTXE said:

dean maybe the 250 t5 bell is the same fittment space as the v8 ? just thinking.

crossflow T5 bell and EA to EL will accept any 6cyl T5 box

V8 one has a longer input shaft, so probably could fit with a spacer(if there's enough room for the throwout bearing still, but then it means the tailshaft needs to be shorter if so, i doubt anyone would do that mod unless in a custom car)

2 hours ago, Stumps said:

this one pulls pretty good down low, it runs out of breath after 130km/h but still is pulling ok, havent had it flat out but I reckon it might hit 150ish if the road was long enough. Around town the 3 on a tree lets it down, first is useless above 20 and you spend most of your time swapping 2nd and third, I can't wait to get the 5 speed in it, still collecting parts to do the job properly.

Yeah My brother had the 3 on the tree manual in a panel van XB for about a month or so until it jammed the gears up. ended up with a celica 5 speed which was nice until it blew up, and then fitted corona 4 speeds (cheaper at $50) and blew 2 of them up also.. then it got a 302/C4 combo. 
 
a single rail and 2.92 diff would be nice enough upgrade, but a T5 and 3.23/3.27 ish would be the perfect combo. 

130 is plenty fast enough for an XB on the street, cops will impound anything going faster these days at great expense. (My diesel gemini did over 140 i was told by the previous owner, he installed a CB to ask truckies if there was anything up the road as far as they could see before he took a run up from behind to go past them eventually getting to 140+ at times)

1 hour ago, Stumps said:

The number that I have found indicated that the box is from an EB2 V8,

 got a pic of the bell housing? it won't be a V8 one if it's got the standard ford 6 bell housing,

(well unless Dellow make a spacer for it and then the tailshaft would be shorter, and hole in floor a different spot possibly and cross member different etc.. UNLIKELY )

 

55 minutes ago, Stumps said:

she's only a 250, but as we all know they can be made to go real hard.

I was happy with the log 250 engine in My brothers XB 30yrs ago, it was improved by fitting a C4 trans over the BW35 he blew up,  and it still had a 2.92 diff. 

just had that off idle torque that seemed to get worse with every generation of falcon 6 right up to the AU and beyond probably. 

12 minutes ago, Stumps said:

What about Edelbrocks, the AVS2 seem to be updated versions of the old AFB carters that Val Pacers ran....did they ever fix the hard left hand cornering fuel starvation issues those old carters had, surely 50 years on that would be well an truely sorted with the design.

@Thom may know something about various brands of carby, see if he can read the few posts above and weigh in on anything perhaps 

44 minutes ago, Stumps said:

still looking in to carbs for my 250 2V engine, do I want vac secondaries? or can I go with mechanical secondaries on a 4 barrel carb, will it make any real difference using one over the other?

 

I remember old street machine articles about carbs and they used to state, go vac secondaries with auto's in heavy cars and mechanical with manuals in lighter cars.

 

My XB isnt a light weight but it's certainly nowhere near as heavy as a late model falcon, and I have a manual gearbox? 

if you were considering turbo or boost , vacuum secondaries are blown open in a blow through (cannot use) and i'm fairly sure they were not recommended in a draw through also.

i do recall i was told to go mechanical in a manual also, but i don't see why from more recent chatting, unless its for double the squirt of fuel when they are on a gear change to prevent a lean backfire on full throttle? or just vacuum might be too slow to react for a gear change in general when thrashed?

someone smarter than Me may have better info for you hopefully. 

35 minutes ago, CHESTNUTXE said:

just doing some research incase i want to put a v8 in the xf ute,xc xd xe c4 column shift is slightly different to up to xb c4 column shift,maybe someone can take a picture to see how the thing works.

I'd have assumed XA to XE C4 trans linkage for column shift would fit the XF body pivot point. 

the link off the steering column i'd have assumed be in the same spot as late XF (1993, 3 speed borg warner auto) 

unleaded link to the bw trans was different to the leaded ones due to the cat converter.. otherwise that does swap also. I'm  sure i've fitted the leaded BW box into late XF ute (had to change the bell housing due to the column shift for cat converter brace is mounted on the bell housing of late ones)*not applicable to V8 conversions, but show's it should just fit the same)

crossflow block is different to the log engine to my knowledge (aka the head won't swap)

the last FEW dyno tuners i've dealt with had grounded me on the HP hunt.. with similar phrases meaning the same thing.. 
IT MAKES WHAT IT MAKES..  otherwise known as.. it's only going to make the sum of it's parts, if the head/cam doesn't flow enough to support a bigger carby, there's no point putting a bigger carby on. for eg. 

so you probably need to just either try it and see what happens to some degree. 

turbo would solve a lot of issues relating to power limits/flow of NA base.. generally get double the power pretty easily.. just add $$ and less legal than bolt on looking mods. 

3 minutes ago, CHESTNUTXE said:

i have been down the 4 barrel route with the crossflow,and found the 450 d/p from quickfuel or holley is great for a worked crossflow,tried 650 yeah it runs but not really driveable or econamey,tbh stick with a 350 or the  rebuilt webber 34adm.

the 38/38 weber is a bolt on for the crossflow and better for power, but it's not going to be as good on fuel

but the engine Stumps is using is a 250 2V (XB ish engine with the separate inlet manifold) with a 250hp goal.. 

3 hours ago, Stumps said:

350 holley with better economy.

 

I am hoping to achieve around 250hp from the 2V.

 

the engine currently has a 214 cam fitted and had larger valves fitted.

 

I apologise if I'm asking dumb questions.

no such thing as dumb question really, but a 4 barrel with vacuum secondaries would surely be the go rather than squirting 4 barrels every time you pushed the accelerator. 

i'd be finding someone who's got experience with the setup you are planning. 

most people these days are chucking on one of the carb replacement throttle body EFI setups and not having to deal with cold start issues, low signal from big cams etc and able to get a fairly cheap tune because they aren't pulling jets and mucking around under the bonnet anymore (dyno tuners)

5 hours ago, Stumps said:

https://fordsix.com/threads/air-flow-in-cfm-on-the-two-v-and-xflow-aussie-head.25060/

 

Interesting read

it's been said a million times i guess,  but how fast do you want to go?

these days with cops and cameras everywhere, a street car just needs to be responsive and peppy and sound good. 

if it's a race car, start with a better engine would be my thinking.  cost Vs reliability/drivability of a highly strung 250 even a crossflow is very high for lots of work. 

your plan of T5 with 3.7 diff gears may not even suit it at 100kmh, 2200rpm in 5th might be a pig if the cam choice doesn't suit those lower revs. 

about 30yrs ago i had a mild crossflow XE that used to pull strong to 5500rpm, it was doughy as until about 2500rpm then took off (was terrible with stock auto and 2.92 diff ratio) 
needed a c4 and 2500 high stall and 3.23 diff or a manual and probably still 3.23 gears.. sounded tough, didn't do much else very well (could have been improved on probably with higher compression i assume and better carby setup instead of the stock weber) or .. would have been much much more drivable/enjoyable with an EFI spec cam

6 hours ago, Stumps said:

Guess not..lol

what you'd probably find is they are bulky, worn out, not very tuneable and probably not a good selection of linkages to adapt them with. 

the 302/351 jetting is probably similar if not the same, as i kept the same one when i did 351 crank and rods into My 302 clevo, and only changed it when it backfired on LPG and blew a chunk out of the plastic body. 

they are rated pretty high in CFM, and should be reasonable on fuel and responsive due to the smaller primaries, but when i had mine, i was told to get a quadrajet/rochester from a holden for My XE for keeping it "legal" and they are much more tunable apparently. (ended up fitting a holley instead due to availability, and tuner was saying tuning would be easier, therefore cheaper.)

45 minutes ago, XF EDDIE said:

Although it looks mangled, the only bit actually bent is the tip where the bull bar mounts the rest of it is just built like that)

@2redrovers might have some idea of the correct way, 

but all I know, is if it's just a bumper mount, i'd be spacing it out and leaving it bent if no one wants to heat it with an oxy and beat it with a sledge (exhaust shop would specialize in this job in the past for Me)

39 minutes ago, Mad RS said:

Thanks for the help guys.  The block must have been painted a few times as I could see anything. 

 

After wire brushing the area off I got JK33PU K.  Which I read as coming from a XB GT Sedan manufactured in June 1974.  I'm guessing the 1 K relates to the body VIN???

i'd have assumed it to be either JG or JH 33, PU is related to something, i think month or year or both, the rest is part of the chassis number of the car.

if it is a JK? then it is something rare i don't recall hearing about. 

probably be advisable to edit the number out also, just incase there's a way of scamming it somehow (someone could duplicate the number perhaps if shonky?) 

24 minutes ago, Mad RS said:

Anyone have a clue??

engine number?  for rego purpose is on the front left side under the head(behind power steering pump on the block, ) 

those casting numbers are something @CHESTNUTXE usually has a fair amount of knowledge of. 

2 hours ago, Glenroy said:

Quietly confident they’ll be 2V

the port size is massive on the 4V, i don't know the dimensions, but it's fairly easy to tell looking at them. 

there's a photo in post 3 of the thread below , might have more info in it if you have time to read it?

2 hours ago, Stumps said:

Been speaking with the mechanic whonis doing the conversion for me, He's pretty certain it'll be an easy swap over using the old 3 speed bellhousing and clutch assembly. The main thing he's concerned about is cutting a hole in the floor, thank christ all the parts for that are now easily available as repro's....not cheap but a whole lot easier than trying to find 50 year old parts at a wreckers or online somewhere.

 

If only the was an XB style gearshift knob with the T5 layout printed on it...

XB style knob might be similar to something from a celica from the 1970s with the same pattern as a T5 (different thread, but could be tapped possibly?)

the XG clutch plate might fit in the 3 speed pressure plate, i can't remember if the T5 pressure plate will have 3 or 6 bolts.. if it's 3 bolt it will bolt on, and if it's 6 bolt, it might still bolt on. but ideally you'd drill more holes. 

the hole for the shifter is basically dictated by the hump, it fits the floor/tunnel snug, trace around it.. leaving a fair edge around the sides, and put the hump further back than snug forward (when i fitted a T5 to My XE the hump was rubbing on the shifter housing initially.. i just removed the hump screws, and set it back 5mm ish, drilled new holes.. and hammerd the floor a bit more at the back)

The XG hump is spot welded onto the floor, you should be able to use it in the same way, but it's bulkier from memory. 

82 DA diff would have the old style straps on the yoke i would think

but these can be changed to the round EB style also.. 

what's it got there?

i thought all 25 spline diffs would be 075 guts and 28 spline 078. but been many many years since i was quizzing diff joints

41 minutes ago, Stumps said:

Thanks for that, I do have an XF bellhousing available but I'd like to retain the factory hydralic clutch, I prefer it over the cable of the XG.

 

cool, i believe the process will be similar, 
machine the T5 snout down (i assume its too big for the hole)

one hole MIGHT line up? on the T5 to 3 speed bell.

drill new holes, can use nuts and bolts if you don't mind bolting the bell up with the box at same time. 
 

and make an extension to the cross member to pick up the T5 mount about 2 inches further back. 
should work fairly easy from that point. 

@Stumps this and another couple of T5 threads might be helpful to you for adapting your T5 from XG to the 3 speed bell housing (if you don't have an XF T5 bell housing to use)

@Stumps this and another couple of T5 threads might be helpful to you for adapting your T5 from XG to the 3 speed bell housing (if you don't have an XF T5 bell housing to use)

@Stumps this and another couple of T5 threads might be helpful to you for adapting your T5 from XG to the 3 speed bell housing (if you don't have an XF T5 bell housing to use)

5 hours ago, Stumps said:

Funny enough was just having a discussion about this exact part with the local Pedders guys. 

if the XG one is in good condition (should be, if the box doesn't leak or has been reco'd in the past) then just use it as is. should fit the steerign column to My understanding. 
the aftermarket ones i'm not overly a fan of anyway. 

5 hours ago, Stumps said:

Im looking at upgrading the non power steering in my XB to power steering, as I have a complete running XG ute, is this a matter of just swapping out the steering boxes and fitting the lines and pump from the XG or to I require additional parts.

 

I understand that the steering column will need adjusting but this is just a matter of tappa tappa tappa until it lines up, and I'll need to use the idler arm from the XG.

 

Am I missing anything else?

what you'd be better to do pump wise. is find an XF harmonic balancer (check they fit first) and the steel power steering pulley, and i'm not 100% sure but fairly sure the XF pump and bracket will bolt to the pre crossflow in the same spot. and hoses would work from XF.
if the harmonic balancer doesn't fit, then you need to find the XA to XE 3 bolt cast iron power steering pulley and bolts (these snap the casting ears off where the bolts go often due to misalignment on fit up).. they are rare. 
unless you have a 2 belt harmonic balancer and don't plan fitting A/C then you could make something work using the XG stuff. (or fit an electric astra pump instead) 

*the box will fit straight in to My understanding, only difference on XA to XF steering box was the return line angled fitting

*tap the steering column up.. 

try to double check my info above, it's been a long time since i've played with any of this stuff.