deankxf

1 hour ago, Melba toast xf said:

Okay this is a little outlandish but I've grown up on 70s and 80s american movies and alot of these involves muscle cars with jacked up rear ends and huge fuck off exhausts and I quite enjoy that style (don't shoot me haha) and i was thinking of chucking side exit exhuasts on melba toast (my xf ute) and was thinking what's the legality of it all because i know they're legal to an extent in nsw but no website will tell me the specifications to have this all legal. And is it really worth it to look like a million bucks. Now I'll be doing this in conjuncture with engine mods so I'm not a complete p plater wanker. Also should I revamp the whole system like should I put glass packs in. I've already got headers sitting in me shed which is a must have if i do say so myself so if I were to do this are glass packs the go and what ever stuff can I do to the system. Also can I get a rear lift for my old leaf springs and how impacted will my handling be? Also the attachment below is the side pips I have in mind

Thanks again and I hope everyone is doing well 

the last i heard about side exhausts, (20yrs ago at min) it just needed to be a certain distance from the door(30cm rings a bell) and be under the noise limit and have some heat shielding (those pictured could pass if you had a muffler before them)

high utes handle pretty crap, so you need to decide how crap you can live with. 

i'd say ask your pink slip person and an exhaust mob

5 minutes ago, Melba toast xf said:

Wait so it's only partly there? Fuck me it might be a bigger job then I thought.

see the black part the T bar is bolted to,  without that you'll have too much gearbox poking through the tunnel to deal with

1 minute ago, Melba toast xf said:

Wait so it's only partly there? Fuck me it might be a bigger job then I thought.

i'll see if i can find a pic from @CHESTNUTXE thread for the hump, he's recently done the same job

1 minute ago, Melba toast xf said:

She's a column manual so I'm not too worried about the hole. I'm abit tired and all so do you mean the actual hump for the transmission or something else. Sorry once again. I was thinking just cluster swap with all the gauges and that. She also doesn't have a tacho or any fancy things like that so is it going to be difficult to wire them in mainly the tacho, she's got a speedo, engine temp, fuel gauge and that's it 

yeah hump on the floor for the gearstick to clear.  get an XB to XE one that screws on and it's simple

all the wiring is there for a cluster swap. just add the oil sender in place of the switch on the motor

31 minutes ago, Melba toast xf said:

Hey guys I'm in the middle of converting melba from a bench seat to buckets and I'm thinking about placing a centre console in her. Is there a big difference between manual and auto consoles and will I be able to just put it in without cutting stuff up.

 

Also how difficult is it to replace the dash with a fairlane digital dash?

Once again thank you guys with helping me with my last post

the auto console can fit a manual fairly easy, the manual hole is too wide i think for the T bar display panel to be fitted. 
You'll need the hump fitted to the floor, XE and prior just unscrew and were available new from GT shops etc (XA to XE would be same or close enough) or drill the spotwelds off a Tbar etc one from a donor car XF 

if you just want the cluster swapped (easy) just get the fairlane cluster and the oil sender from the fairlane engine and it just plugs in and works.

if you want to fit the whole fairlane dash with the trip computer etc. well, it can fit, i don't know it if plugs up to the existing engine loom without any mods(possibly would just plug and play)

11 minutes ago, XF EDDIE said:

Aye. Had a look and it's a problem with the mufflers. They're rusted out anyway so I'm going to replace the exhaust with a stock size cat back system any recommendations for something?

depending how noisy you like 
I'm old, i'd go with a factory spec muffler., 

but back in the day a baffled glass pack sounded nice, the straight through ones will be similar but louder. 

you can delete the center resonator (often cracks anyway) for almost no difference (if anything a slightly nicer sound) 

On 4/22/2024 at 6:54 PM, XF EDDIE said:

I got the rest of the exhaust undone and she's sweet. How "unfortunate" that the stock exhaust is blocked. I guess I'm now forced to make a 2.5" exhaust system for it. In all seriousness thank you all for the help. Without the help I got here I would still be ripping my hair out hunting this problem. All I got to do now is fix that ignition lock and she's back on the road!

personally i didn't rate the 2.5" exhaust on stock engines. mine went better with 2" even than the 2.25 one,(be different if jetting etc was being done on the carby on a dyno i suspect)

unless you like noise, the 2.5" makes a lot more noise, (i still reckon they sound better with a sports muffler on the stock exhaust size )
 

that's on a stock engine that only makes power to 4000rpm at best though (due to cam/valve springs) 
 

40 minutes ago, XF EDDIE said:

@SPArKy_DaveI pulled the EGR and she fkin ran! I'll disconnect the rest of the system and let you know how it goes

 

that's a win, it may be a blocked cat, or the guts of it blocking something further down the line if it fell out (one of My utes and a sedan did this, it came loose/turned sideways and was blocking the flow in the cat pipe..
i made a bolt fit tight in a piece of garden hose and smashed it up  while still fitted to the car (both times) due to i don't like udoing rusty exhaust bolts where possible.
could be a rats nest in the muffler if it's been parked for yonks also i guess

9 minutes ago, XF EDDIE said:

Don't have any way to get a cheap known good est box at the moment. I'll try what sparky Dave suggested and if none of that fixes it I'll temporarily fit the dizzy out of the f100. Any way to check the est system before swapping parts? I heard they have a self test function but I don't know for sure and it would be preferable to narrow it to the est.

anything to do with testing for Me was swap in another one. (swap tronics)

@SPArKy_Dave may have some info links,

2 hours ago, XF EDDIE said:

The f100 has an alloy head 1 xd motor. Is that compatible?

yes, but if you fit it, unplug the ECU in the kick panel  of the XF (this could also be the current issue also, they have been known to go bad even 20yrs ago)

I had an XF ute, fitted the XD alloy head/XE dissy (leaded XF is same but with the later cap, has a specific rotor button for it, you'd need to order if keeping it)

it worked for ages but at some point the ECU in the kick panel(wasn't needed) had an issue and caused ignition breakdown. i simply unplugged it and it was fine with the XD dissy again. 

to fit it, all you need to do is put the wires onto the coil  (2 wires) and it will work  (unplug the ECU in the left kick panel)

the ECU is specific to the carby models, EST sticker shoud/will be on it.  might pay to check that before you go further,  and if you can locate another to try it could be worth a shot.  (unleaded aka 1986 XF utes/vans upto 1992 should have one as they were all carby.  otherwise only sedan/wagon/fairlane etc from 1986/1987 with a carby would have them (rare now)

I haven't got time tonight but should be able to give you some more things to check tomorrow. 

but off the top of My head, you should check your fuel cut solenoid on the carby is getting power/(or vacuum if that's it's style)

cars this old with low kms often have stuffed hoses and there's a chance it's sucking air from the fuel line joins(one under the floor of passengers left foot area is a common issue)

try running fuel from a jerry can/bottle instead of the fuel tank first up to rule out that side of things

i may think of more overnight or @SPArKy_Dave may have a clue to look into 

the ignition lock caused @CHESTNUTXE some grief in the same way, i hadn't had many issues removing them in the past but they can be annoying (low kms = less worn to jiggle pick, but a locksmith could get it out easily if you removed it (sometimes easier to remove the steering column if you can't access the bolts easy.. *tamper proof you'll need to cut a slot in them or chisel them undone)

3 hours ago, fotz said:

Thanks mate. Rod Shop. also have their own version of this as well. Do you have to drill out that square whole on the cross members, or does that single bolt fit straight thrugh?

i can't remember, 

i have a feeling it fits into the mounting bolt as is (maybe the mount has a square at the end of the threads even to locate it)

the EB cross member mounts have a square hole also, so i'd say ford must have been considering this mount option at some point

1 hour ago, AAAC said:

 Is there meant to be another spring and what are the attachment points?

i haven't got any photos handy at the moment, but this thread has a lot of info in it if you have time to check it out
 

15 hours ago, fotz said:

Thanks @deankxf - what’s the thinking on why this would be stronger. It’s only 1 bolt into the Trans mount instead of 2?

i've never seen one pulled apart like the 2 bolt one's do, they get a bit sloppy eventually (original ford ones are not solid rubber, they have some dampening in them)
due to the one center bolt, they allow a lot of twist and therefore don't break i think. 

for $200 odd, the tuff mounts one is the 2 bolt type that would be strong

2 hours ago, fotz said:

Interesting, does anyone have a photo of the e-series mount or where to get them from?

 

Is that the one with 1 bolt - and looks like an exchaust flange shape?

 

 

Yep that's the one 

Just google eb Falcon gearbox mount for a photo 

1 hour ago, fotz said:

Hi All, just an update, I will share some picks soon, but things are coming together. I have mounted the motor in the engine bay. AU extractors, definately dont fit, need some serious modification. I have ordered Pacemaker PH 4032 extractors, ill let you know how these go.

 

On another note, I am just about to put the T5 from an e-series into my XF. I have just noticed a couple different things between the XF T5 and also the E series T5.

 

1) The mounting holes underneath the gearbox are not in the same alignment. E-series is more narrower.

2) the bolt threads on the e-series is much thinner than what was in the XF

 

I have found a rod shop mount, that has adjustable holes, so going to go after that one https://www.rodshop.com.au/gearbox-mounts-gbmount06-choice-of-rubber-or-heavy

 

I also noticed that in the XF I have an extra bracket that was used to mount the exchaust. See pictures below. I assume that I can just throw this away as this will only work with a 6cyl and dont think it would have even worked with extractors either.

 

Is there an equivalent one for the v8, or would you just mount the exchaust differently.

 

Thanks

 

Foti

See that hole in between the xf cross member holes, you can use the e series gearbox mount with this hole fine in XF.

I think they are stronger than the 2 bolt one.

Exhaust bracket was a very strong pain in the arms trying to work around , most went in the bin. 

Probably very good at stopping the Exhaust manifold from cracking but not used with extractors 

39 minutes ago, bear351c said:

Do it up a little, undo, do it up, undo slightly more this time, do it up, undo it more again.......

this works often, especially if you can get access to clean the threads up with a wire brush then lube it

but sometimes with these bolts is you can jam something in to stop is spinning and then TIGHTEN the bolt until it breaks the bolt.. then you have access with the guard removed to cut the rusted stuff out with a grinder. 

i have centerpunched and drilled the bolt head off also, it's tough going, but can be done if needed. (one accessed by opening the door and above the top hinge caused me this pain once)

1 hour ago, Nato of Falcons said:

Guys, I feel dumb as a post right now so im sorry if this is the dumbest question you get on here. 

 

Moto means to motor and Rad means to Radiator... So the thermostat goes this way yeah?

 

Please and thank you as always. This one has really got me sweating.

 

that motorad looks like just a brand name?
that part goes into the head where the hot water touches the spring part to let it open. 

so opposite to how you are holding it in the first pic

like below (only pic i could find on google)

45 minutes ago, fotz said:

Would be great to understand what this relay is...

 

Thanks

 

I'm leaning towards neither of them being factory. 

2 hours ago, fotz said:

I didnt expect the Carby XF model to have an ECU in it.

unleaded XF has an EST computer and map sensor, likely just something to minorly improve emissions at the time. they were often replaced with the leaded dizzy from XE or XF (special LEADED rotor button needed if keeping the XF cap/leads, otherwise use XE rotor and cap/leads)

if you use an XE dizzy in the later XF, remove the ECU from the kick panel, one of My XFs had ignition breakdown with it still fitted (faulty) and when removed the problem was gone. 

3 hours ago, fotz said:

I think I have wored this out, but please confirm

 

1 of them is definately a starter relay, the other was connected up through the carby manifold, so I suspect it is an engine relay of some sort.

 

If someone can confirm please, that would be great

got a photo of them?

the EFI had 2 relays there, one was an ECU relay, the other a fuel pump relay. 

i didn't think there was a factory starter relay? @SPArKy_Dave may confirm.  but many of my cars had starter relays fitted over the years. 

i don't see why you'd have another relay for a carby manifold, unless it's some anti theft thing been added?

16 minutes ago, RM351 said:

Anyone?

@Thom may have an idea?

26 minutes ago, Panko said:

From place its a bit over an hour, and a good bit of sitting on highway with 110km/h speed limit. 

how'd it go up the big hill just past Calder Park Raceway, back to 4th gear and held the speed with the 1600? 

1 hour ago, Fknclevo said:

seen cams like crow cam 14806 is this way to big for standard comp?

https://crowcams.com.au/product/ford-crossflow-solid-1

1 hour ago, Fknclevo said:

5kish at a crossflow can stretch the budge

I don't think $5k will go far these days. if you need to upgrade the diff, exhaust, trans, converter also. you'll be way off. 

I don't have the answers, but with a cam that big will surely need MUCH more compression to compensate . (you could ask Crow, they did reply to My questions on a different cam once)

Also, what diff ratio are you going to use? i had a crossflow 30yrs ago that was 2500-5500 rpm range with 2.92 diff ratio and auto and stock converter and it was like starting off in second gear until it got to about 40kmh then came to life. a 2500 high stall or manual would have helped a lot. 

can you even get a 3500 high stall for what trans you are using if Auto? (likely going to cost a LOT also)

"FITTING NOTES"
 

Must use performance springs.

Must use performance retainers.

Machining required to fit these components.

Must use performance seal.

Converter stall speed should be equal to or greater than the minimum RPM of the cam power range

The xf with column shift had rounded column covers like xe from memory. But that column isn't the height adjustable one so there may be enough differences to not fit without modifying that at least. 

53 minutes ago, Crebe said:

I have replaced the new master with another new master a protex and immedatly find out they are shit....or so i am told. I procrastinated and rang and visited brake "experts" and they were of no help. Said "they only can buy the chinese ones as thats all they make now" and asked them to look in stocks for an origonal PBR to recondition. After repeated requests to go and look they said we wouldnt have one! rang a guy that said he has never had any trouble with the masters he sells and i bought it. That item is the Protex. I have fixed the fluid problem out of it and the only thing I am suspicous of is that air may have been in tbe rears somewhere. I am not happy with the performance of these xf brakes on my xr and have had the calipers reconditioned . Have Bendix pads to replace the hardly worn Bendix pads new rotors and every thing on the rear drums. I blead the livin shit out of the lines, vacome this time. Have called Vari brakes and Talked with Ceasar and am looking at six pot brakes on 290 discs so i can change back to 15s from 18s for rego etc. He has to get back to me re any changes in track etc. I dont realy want 6 spot as its way more than I need. 4 pot would be better or even two pot.

DID YOU BENCH BLEED the master cyl before hooking the lines up? video here it's a must do for new master cyls. 

XF brakes should be fine,  when working. if it's a master issue, it will still be an issue on 6 pots, so you need to confirm that is the ussue. 
My best method for bleeding brakes now (on my own) is to get a LONG piece of fish tank bubbler hose, or similar clear 1/4 inch ish hose (bunnings even sold it last i bought)and a bit of rubber hose that fits it tight and to the bleeder nipple.

and i basically pump the pedal slowly and if the fluid is all brand new you can even return it to the reservoir in a loop and keep pumping until no bubbles show.  i'll draw you a fine picture with windows paint if you need an illustration.  otherwise you need to keep topping up the reservoir to avoid sucking air when it's low. 

do this for the 4 corners and it's been the only way i've been certain there's no air in the lines. 
those suction one's haven't worked for a few people i know,  so it's something you can try before going further.
 

 

A mate of mine just got a 1996 master cyl (original) from a wreck at the wreckers, it was clean so he's just fitted it and it worked. 

20yrs ago i was blasted for using second hand good quality ball joints in something compared to new crap we are talking about here. which later i finally tried and they could have caused a serious accident (i tagged you but i'll link here also)