SPArKy_Dave

My XG ute is on ultra's, with 225/50/16's on EL XR8 sharkfins (16x7). Never rubs.... not anywhere.

Use Dielectric Grease on the TFI to dizzy surface. New Dizzy should've come with a TFI already. I would be surprised, if the Dizzy itself, was the cause of your problems. TFI module or Hall effect sensor maybe.

The new intake gaskets ARE thicker than the originals. I think they revised the design. These XH 4.0l engines are also timed to 0degrees TDC. (EF/EL spec) ie, the dizzy rotor should line up EXACTLY with no.1 pin on the dizzy cap, with the engine engine at TDC. The XG's are different I believe.

Missing when hot - could be a bad intake manifold gasket. They're pretty simple machines. Run the fault codes first, see what you get. Don't buy a chinese dizzy - they ruin the worm drive on the idler shaft. 167,000kms, is barely run in. At that mileage, I'd expect original everything still. They're pretty hardy drivetrains. Could be a headgasket too. Is the header tank clear?

What distributor access.... they're impossible to get to. LOL! But seriously, as suggested above, remove the air box and rubber intake hose. It may also help, to remove the thermo fans too. Take the distributor cap off, and undo the leads from the spark plugs, then remove the leads and cap in one assembly. Once on the ground, replace leads, then thread them back in the way they came out. Factory Motorcraft leads are one of the best for these. Motorcraft leads are usually good for around 200-250,000km, before they start to crossfire and earth out through the plug lead insulation. These engines can be a bit picky about leads sometimes, as they're a fairly high powered ignition system. Coils can last over 300,000km, or fail at 150,000km..... no rhyme or reason. They're usually pretty good though. Coils can be got at, by reaching up the side of the block, from underneath the car, behind the passenger front wheel. It's about the only way to get to em. They're a 10mm bolt head from memory. Don't use cheap coils on them either, whatever you do. Not worth the hassle. If the original is good still, I'd leave it. If you've undone the intake manifold, you'll probably have to replace the gasket, as they don't usually seal properly, once undone. About $20.00 for the gasket, from memory.

Yep, it's behind that sound deadening stuff. Horrible sticky bitumen crap it is, with foil on top. - similar to what melts and drips into the front seatbelt mechanisms on these cars, and gums up the retractor wheels.

There are three or four threads with nuts, holding it on. They're accessible from inside the car, when you remove the interior Cpillar trim piece. 10mm nuts from memory. Each thread has a rubber washer on it, so they don't leak. Watch out that they don't fall off somewhere.

That...... or replace the switch. I've done the odd one or two.

You can get AC delete pulleys and brackets, but dunno if shorter belts work. One of the joys of serpentine belts....

These - and -

Could be a million things, from fuel supply, coil pack, map sensor, torque converter, transmission binding up, and so on. Is it running hotter than normal? Using more fuel? I'd start with checking coilpacks, leads and plugs. Check the faultcodes too.

For bush mechanics reliability, I'd stick with the iron head, and points dizzy. The less technology in them, the better, when you're looking for parts in the middle of nowhere. I'd just check the condition of the original parts - check oil pressure, radiator core/hoses, check that the distributor advance mechanisms (mechanical and vacuum) are working properly. Use LED rotating lights/spotlights, for minimal extra load on alternator. If you need extra pulling power, change the diff ratio, (but not if there's a lot of highway driving). I'd go with the KISS principle, on a variety bash vehicle.

The globe is on the end of the switch assembly. Just pull the switch straight out of it's hole, (just unclips by wiggling it from side to side) and the globe and wiring comes out with it.

The TRW of today, are not what they were back then.

555 were good, till they stopped supplying them. Roadsafe distributed them. They still do 555 tierod ends.

Step 1 - Step 2 - Step 3 -

Hey mate, welcome to Ozfalcon! Have you tried the basics, by doing a filter change and full trans flush? Could be a noisy pump, which can be caused by a blocked filter.

Did you get a pic of how they ran the LH tailpipe?

No, you can't buy em new. The closest you can get, are repro ESP side mouldings with the yellow stripe, which are the same as leaded/series 1 unleaded XF Fairmonts. (the XF's have a chrome stripe though.) You should be able to re-furb yours, by peeling off the chrome coating/clear. Then purchase a quantity of chrome pinstripe, or some chrome signwriting vinyl, and some clear pinstripe/vinyl to go over the top. That's about as close as you'll get to original these days. Are yours the early style, or the wide type fitted to the later XF series 2's?

I'm having that exact same problem. ^^^^^ Got any good pics of how they routed the tailpipes? Particularly the left hand side one.

Yes - the whole assembly comes out, by undoing four screws/bolts, on the inside of the tailgate in the middle. - the screws literally back onto the whole numberplate/reverse light assembly. Then once removed, you'll see that there are two tiny screws holding each reverse light lense on from behind.

For the refz....... In order from left to right. NOS standard Mackay aftermarket RareSpares aftermarket Superpro