SPArKy_Dave

It's an RS Series 2watt Metal Oxide Resistor, (metal oxide resistors, are basically high quality resistors designed for use in demanding situations - like automotive parts.) RS = RS series Resistor 2P = 2 Watt Power Rating 68^ = 68Ohms J = +/- 5% tolerance rating http://www.token.com.tw/pdf/resistor/metal-oxide-resistor.pdf

Try re-flowing the solder joints. They can sometimes fatigue, and only give a partial connection. It's a common problem. Especially with the later model falcon remotes - AU/BA

Help me, all thee knowledgeable OzFalcon members........ The BTR trans in my EL 5ltr wagon is playing up a bit. (been doing it for a while, but just not as consistently as now) three things it does - 1. It very slightly delays the 1-2 shift, and ends it with a thump into 2nd. This happens under part throttle only. Full or 3/4 throttle 1-2 shifts are fine. 2. It randomly unlocks the torque converter when you're driving along, with no change to throttle position or engine load. 3. Engine braking is random - in that if you manually drop back a gear or two on a downwards incline, there is no off throttle engine braking. Not until you either slow right down, or put your foot back on the go pedal. Other than these three things, it works fine. Opinions?

Wheel cleaner like the ArmourAll, or IronX, seems to clean the brown off tyres. I'm pretty sure it's the silicone which turns brown with UV light. I've seen enough roof and gutter silicone, turn brown around decktites etc, from doing Solar. Foaming non-silicone tyre shine is what I use, which works great. Gives a natural black finish. I used to use a home brand IGA foam, but now use the armourall foam. I would like to try some pro stuff eventually though.

It had a faulty inhibitor switch back when I first got the car. It would randomly kick down a gear, and/or go into neutral while driving along. I put the dash into diagnostic mode, and could see it happening. I replaced the inbibitor switch with a NEW genuine OEM BTR part - an Aussie made Bosch switch. (the motorcraft ones supplied by Ford these days, are a copy part - not bosch.)

What was it doing exactly?

And handily, the NOS replacement door skins have the notches cut out on both sides of the handle recess, so the skins will work on all XD-XH.

Cav will prolly chime in with the most accurate info...... but last I saw, the XG-XH handles were going for about $50 each at Ford. The XD-XF handles, were at about $40 each. Black only to my knowledge. I don't think they do the chrome ones anymore.

Handily, the pivots on today's new Genuine Ford x-series door handles, come with the holes pre-stamped for either XD-XF or XG-XH. Just swap over the correct plastic insert, and you're away!

It was an optional extra in 1984 too. edit - There is no connection for a clock, in the GL wiring looms. For the base models, the clock wiring looms were an add-on extra, spliced in with scotch-locks. There are two versions of the clock also. The XD and early XE clocks are a Siemens brand, with the square plug and an inline resistor/suppressor thing. They had more traditional looking yellow tinged green (or red) digits in the display. Later clocks were made by VDO, and were in a very slimlined see-through green tinted casing. The display digits are very small and the colour is more of a blue/green. This clock has a thin narrow 4 pin plug - chassis mounted directly onto the circuit board of the clock unit. Quick history lesson - In 2001, Siemens Automotive merged with VDO, to become SiemensVDO. Then in 2007, the Siemens Group, sold their SiemensVDO business, to the German company Continental for $15.66 billion. Continental are best known in Australia, for their soft riding euro spec tyres.

If you work there, why not just order in a bosch one, or the parts to repair yours? Should be a pretty good price, with staff discount I imagine.

Alternatively, I just remembered I've got a genuine BA Falcon Bosch starter here somewhere. Bought it new yrs ago, and never used it. If you're interested, PM me.

Just rebuild your existing one, if it's a bosch. Repco will prolly try to sell you a chinese bosch copy starter. I don't know if they're any good or not.

I spent ages once, adjusting the slack out of the handle rod assembly, by mucking around with the severity of the S bend in the rod. It tightened up everything, and got the mech working like a bought one. Have you checked for freeplay in the rods?

If you ever have the dissy out, suss out the advance bob weights. Cals XD wagon wasn't starting reliably when hot, so I helped to rebuild the dissy - replaced the pickup induction coil and greased everything else. The advance weights were seized up rock solid as the original grease had solidified. Seemed to start and run so much easier after the minor refurb.

Same issue with the utes and panelvans. Even my EL wagon does this. I've not investigated the blockage yet though.

That plastic lever, is always what breaks in the E-series/XG/XH mechanisms. I've kept my broken mechanisms, with the intention on one day repairing them for spares, when good ones become thin on the ground. (which almost about now) You have to undo all the rods, to get the mechanism out of the XH door. Unclip the handle rod bracket. The lock barrel rod also unclips to the side, with a little persuasion. You'll have to undo the interior door handle though, to disconnect the rod for that one. Then undo the three torx bolts for the mech itself, and it will come out, with a bit of maneuvering.

I'd really like to get an ultrasonic cleaner one day, for all the small parts such as in carbies. I also have future plans to get a small zinc plating setup too, to re-plate all the small parts like linkages, small screws and so-on. Makes a carby rebuild/ engine bay freshen up look so much nicer.

I know there are small hub discs up until early 75', when they changed to the large hub, but not sure if the spindles themselves are different.

It could be a perished diaphragm in the Fuel pump. If it'll run with fuel down the carby, look back from that. I'd take the fuel line off the carby, and crank the engine, to see if fuel will come out. Failing that, verify that the pump can actually draw fuel from the tank. Disconnect the fuel line at the pump/filter, which comes from the tank, then connect up a 12v electric fuel pump and see if it will draw any fuel. If it won't draw fuel, it could be a perished rubber line at the tank end, not allowing the fuel pump to pull a vacuum, and draw the fuel up. It's a stromberg Carby I'm assuming?

I'd try replacing the hall effect sensor/pickup module in the distributor. That would be the next place I'd look. Also make sure you have power to the EST module - check your battery connections, fusible links and so-forth.

Probably the old EL Voltage drop issue. Measure at the alternator, then across the battery terminals, and then measure the voltage in the car - at the lighter socket or similar. My EL Wagon has this issue. Volts drop as the engine warms up. Alternator still charging at 14volts steady. It's a poor connection at the main fuse box I think - after hunting around with a volt meter.

Copy them, and post them up here, if you get a chance!

Good find mate! Looks like he let it go out of copyright...... must not have been worth his time. It'd be really interesting to get in touch with the fella, and see if he's still got any specs, left over stock, moulds etc. I can see a heap of potential for further development. Loving the individual throttle body idea too!