Squiz

i made these videos for someone 11yrs ago with a similar issue, it's all i can do at the moment. (no more falcons)
 
 

just posted 2 videos, 
SPRAY it all with WD40 or CRC etc and keep trying if it's all connected still
try make sense of the videos, the lady i made them for figured it out from them. 

if it's as above, and you find in the bottom of the door bits of this spring.. it's the issue
 
link to one here, i've never bought one or fitted it, only just bought a good used mechanism and swapped it.  https://www.custommustangs.com.au/ford-falcon-door-lock-mechanism-repair-spring-xd-x
this isn't the cheapest it's just the first one that popped up with google
 

FIRSTLY, try turn the key to UNLOCK and hold it in that position, if the handle works to open the door then it will confirm what i'm expecting
 
same could be done with the window down and holding the lock button up. 
 
if you lift the handle and notice the lock button dropping, then it's what i suspect above. 
 
there's a broken spring in the door actuator 
 
check that first and i'll see if i can google a pic for you. 
 

I'd try the LED versions, i had a feeling they still dim. 
i've seen melted cluster housings due to people fitting parker bulbs in

I really wouldn't, you may well melt the globe holder or dash cluster itself if the globe gets too hot. We had this problem on some plant equipment at work, a bank of indicator lamps are supposed to take 2W globes and we were putting 4s in.
 
My suggestion if you can't find the right one is to put 24V globes of the same wattage you were going to put in, they may be a tad dull but won't get hot like something in 12V that's too high wattage.
 
Another option is LED wedges, which don't get hot, but you'll lose your dimming function.
 
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It's on the end of your speedo cable. Where it sits in the side of the gearbox. Small screw or bolt and a plate holding it in, pull it out, circlip holds it on to the cable, through that little slot you can see in the photo. 

is the a video anywhere on how to change these gears??? i have to change one i have 4 speed single rail and 3.23 diff so i got a green 21 tooth but have no idea where it goes

thats really good information i can understand, thanks for taking the time to type it out much appreciated.

thats really good information i can understand, thanks for taking the time to type it out much appreciated.

I've had both, but in my opinion, 6-3-1 sounds more sporty as the pulses are separated for longer before joining. The pipes are grouped very differently between the two types.

With the 6-3-1, numbers 1 & 6, 2 & 5, 3 & 4 are paired respectively, so if you observe the inline 6 firing order, each pair is 360 crank degrees apart from each other. This gives maximum scavenging and does it more evenly. Each opposite pulse helps scavenge its paired cylinder.

With the 6-2-1, there are 2 groups of 3 cylinders with 240 crank degrees between them, and each exhaust pulse from one cylinder sees two scavenge pulses from the other two at 240 and 480 degrees. Depending on the tuned length, there could theoretically be two optimum rpm points where the scavenging effect is ideal, but grouping 3 cylinders together might result in a bit of overlap and work against that effect when compared to the 6-3-1 design.

Regarding sound, there is only a subtle difference and hardly worth worrying about, but my dad's XF had the first set I'd heard and I still remember how it sounds, 25 years later. I think the 6-3-1 is better at higher rpm and you can hear the engine come "on-song" more compared to a 6-2-1 header.

Sure, you can lengthen the secondaries on the 6-2-1s to dial them in, and folks on here have had great success using this method, but to just go and bolt on a set and drive away, 6-3-1s are the go.

Really, the only arguments against going with 6-3-1s is clearance, and extra cost. I seem to remember Pacemakers only having about $40 price difference, going back a bit though.

The biggest factor in exhaust sound is always the muffler. If you choose to go with a chambered type on a 6, you'll need to run a resonator or two with it, otherwise it will drone like a bitch. I have had better success with a straight-through type glasspack which gave a nice presence but was quiet on the open road. 6-2-1 headers, 2.5 system, resonator (basically a hotdog without the packing) and an offset glasspack (side in, centre out). That was on my Cortina and was a great system.

Conversely, when I bought my XE wagon, it was a 6 and had 6-2-1 headers, 2.25 pipes and a turbo-style muffler with a hotdog at the rear. It droned like a mofo, right at the 2100rpm mark where crossies often do. The V8 I put in was quieter.

Don't be fooled by people telling you the pipe size is too big. Any back pressure is bad. People who say that an engine needs back-pressure to run nicely are probably comparing that to open headers, which often don't perform as well as headers with a tuned pipe/collector fitted. That's a pulse tuning issue, not back-pressure.

Smaller pipes are louder. Go as big as you can squeeze in there, and it will cruise sweet but give some bark when you mash it. Small pipes drone and resonate badly.

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6-2-1... So 2 pairs of 3 into 1 merge into a pair of 2.5" collectors into a single 3.5" merge collector then back into twin 2.5" pipes. Single 2.5" is not big enough tbh.