waderobertson

Yup that's exactly what I've done mate, a dab of locktite just for good measure. Got a good tighten on the thread, to the point when I nip it up the gear will shift. I ended up with 3 spring washers and the nut just flush with end of the thread. 

That's the stock locknut, they're crimped on the end.
Overtightened in the past maybe? (apprentice mechanic ugga-dugga's)

Yup that's exactly what I've done mate, a dab of locktite just for good measure. Got a good tighten on the thread, to the point when I nip it up the gear will shift. I ended up with 3 spring washers and the nut just flush with end of the thread. 

https://imgur.com/a/OK4MIGk
 
Just trying to get this nut off... might be threaded because its turning but going nowhere. 

Trying to replace leaking selector seal, how do I get the bloody nut off? Think I read a post way back that said the nut requires a special tool or a simple hack I'm unaware of?
 
Cheers.

Hi @cisco
 
I've posted some stuff in this thread mate: 
I run super low springs front and rear with short body konis. Wheels are 17 inch and with the tyres on them they have the same diameter/ circumference as the stock/ original wheel and tyres that were on the XF. It looks the ducks nuts but @deankdx is 100% on the money wrt ride quality and handling. If I had my time again I would go for low springs and 18inch wheel to fill the guard out - it'd just make life easier all round... no cutting bump stops (not by much anyway), no potential ball joint binding, no rear suspension arm contacting axle under compression.
 
My springs are made in NZ and lows are about 30mm lower than standard with super lows being 45-50mm lower than standard. Springs do tend to settle too, I reckon my fronts had 7-10mm guard clearance when I put them in and are right on the guard now. Like I say, it looks the ducks nut but it wont be long till I take the manufacturer up on their offer to reset the springs up to 15-20mm once they've settled.
 
Hope that helps.

there still might be, but it's not well documented if so. 
 
 i guess the difference here(Australia) up until now ish, was there were wrecking yards with old junk in them you'd just get an XC XD etc pulley from..(oldest thing in the wreckers these days is probably around 1990 unless there's someone specialising in certain models like i linked above)
 
there might be reference on say VPW or other speed shops for aftermarket chrome pulleys etc, but you could be looking for a long time.. i would assume there'd be a "chrome pulley kit" for a falcon 6... it would likely say, use XC XD water pump or similar if so. 
 

Hey @deankdx
 
I'm running the non-viscous version of the water pump for the rebuild. It's already installed.
 
My existing donk (and the donor) has the clutch fan version of the water pump despite running an electric fan. It made sense in my mind to avoid the fan thread poking out the front of the pulley, and of course now I have 2 pulleys that don't fit the water pump 🙂
 
I thought there might be another obvious option that people knew about e.g. perhaps all small block ford pulleys fit and so I might widen the search?
 
Thanks for those contacts. I've got a lead here in NZ but if it doesn't land I'll get hold of those ones.

A few pics of the wheels on the wagon. 10x17 6mm offset. I've ended up with a little more guard clearance that I had expected so as it sits there's about 50mm of travel before guard rub becomes an issue. I'll slap a full tank of gas and some weight in the back and road test it is see how it goes... maybe a small spacer in the back might be in order, hopefully not as I'm happy with stance. (note: the current tyres are 275x40 slicks while I wait for 4 weeks for the actual tyres to arrive from over the puddle.)





 
8x17 235x45 are spot on for fronts.

I still don't know what I've got in the way of front and rear springs but given the overall diameter of the wheels are the same as standard I reckon it's been dropped about 40-50mm. Hopefully this is useful for anyone that might be getting mixed messages about running 10inch wheels on an otherwise standard setup, I know I did!

Nope they're still on the website mate. They didn't actually acknowledge the manufacturing flaws, just apologized and stumped up the refund. 

Thanks for that @SPArKy_Dave good to know 👍 

Thanks for that @SPArKy_Dave good to know 👍 

I'm gonna need some help deciphering that code @slydog 🙂

The spring coil, doesn't have the correct end cut, for Falcon spring saddles -
see how it's missed the saddle stop tab?
That is a problem.
 

Just replaced all front end bushes (sway bar and linkages, control arms and castor rod), tie rods, springs, saddles and shocks in the XF.
86 XF 6 Cylinder  Cobra Super Low Springs (40-50mm lower than std) Koni short body shocks (821742SP4) 17x8 rims with 235/45s bump stops cut to 22mm with about the same clearance to control arm.
 

 

 

 

 

 
A couple of pics showing why she handled like it was driving on marbles... springs are the same, the one on the left has had a 40mm haircut... and the resulting bump stop which was pumped right through to the head of the mount screw. Shocks were shortened KYBs. Cut open the ball joint rubber and there's definitely sign of the ball joint tapping out.
 

 

 
She's a couple of weeks from being back on the road so we'll see how she goes. Not really happy with the ball joint angle, and expect springs to settle given they're new,  so might look to invest in some of those flash harry ball joints down the track.
 
 

A few pics of the wheels on the wagon. 10x17 6mm offset. I've ended up with a little more guard clearance that I had expected so as it sits there's about 50mm of travel before guard rub becomes an issue. I'll slap a full tank of gas and some weight in the back and road test it is see how it goes... maybe a small spacer in the back might be in order, hopefully not as I'm happy with stance. (note: the current tyres are 275x40 slicks while I wait for 4 weeks for the actual tyres to arrive from over the puddle.)





 
8x17 235x45 are spot on for fronts.

I still don't know what I've got in the way of front and rear springs but given the overall diameter of the wheels are the same as standard I reckon it's been dropped about 40-50mm. Hopefully this is useful for anyone that might be getting mixed messages about running 10inch wheels on an otherwise standard setup, I know I did!

Hey gerg,
 
+6mm for the back and 0 for the front mate. I'll take some pics of clearances if you want?
 
Cheers.

A few pics of the wheels on the wagon. 10x17 6mm offset. I've ended up with a little more guard clearance that I had expected so as it sits there's about 50mm of travel before guard rub becomes an issue. I'll slap a full tank of gas and some weight in the back and road test it is see how it goes... maybe a small spacer in the back might be in order, hopefully not as I'm happy with stance. (note: the current tyres are 275x40 slicks while I wait for 4 weeks for the actual tyres to arrive from over the puddle.)





 
8x17 235x45 are spot on for fronts.

I still don't know what I've got in the way of front and rear springs but given the overall diameter of the wheels are the same as standard I reckon it's been dropped about 40-50mm. Hopefully this is useful for anyone that might be getting mixed messages about running 10inch wheels on an otherwise standard setup, I know I did!

Yeah I agree, spending $ on an engine to make atmo power then boosting on top of that is pretty much building the engine twice.

You don't need a mega-dollar top end in turbo applications, the whole idea is that you're force-feeding it for the extra torque (and power) rather than making the poor thing scream its tits off to achieve the same goal.

A turbo setup needs slightly upgraded valvesprings, wide lobe cam, good pistons, and especially a good ignition system, programmable and with decent output. Anything less will be a massive compromise.

Making big power on what most would describe as an agricultural engine like the Crossy takes specialist knowledge and lots more dollars than the usual V8 build. The Crossy has 2 disadvantages in that regard. It has less cubes, and is undersquare so rpm is not something it likes.

A turbo fixes the breathing once the atmo torque drops off. Dollar-for-dollar, turbo wins. Build the engine solely with that in mind and bolt on the snail when everything is good to go

Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk

Hey team,
 
About to fork out for a set of the below for the wagon.
 

 
They only do a 10" and 8" option for the V51s. Naturally I want to go as wide as possible on the rear, which (for me) means 275. I'm keen for a stance like the below with a 25-30mm rake and some guard clearance at the rear.  Photo credit to ford muscle cars instagram account.

 

 
I used an online calculator to see what I had to play with (look at the 'new' figures) when running a 275x35 on the 17x10 rim (0 offset):

 
I made up this highly engineered and precise measuring tool, which uses the diameter above, 275 tyre width at 0 offset and used it to test inner and outer clearance.

 
Result was a 6mm clearance to the top of the outer guard which includes a someone 'organically' rolled lip (aka rough as guts) and a 20mm clearance to the closest point of the inner guard.
    
 
Inclination is to run with a 6mm offset to gain a little more clearance to the outer guard, and about 50mm of suspension travel before guard rub becomes an issue. I'll be running 17x8 on the front with 235 and 0 offset, which don't seem to present any issues with a lowered but otherwise standard suspension set up.
 
 

The blue wire, is for the Aircon compressor clutch.
 
The alternator, looks like an EF/EL Mitsubishi one?
 

You're right, I just had a pic of the alternator on the donor I have... completely different. 
 
Appreciate the reply, thanks alot.

Thanks very much, really helpful and much appreciated!

i think if you have to ask this question.. then don't do it.. and what's the reason.

the issue mainly is the oil pump drive is a pain in the ass,  if the dissy has been in there for 20yrs odd it can be a right asshole of a thing to remove(due to a crusty lip on the underside  inside of the engine) . 
why do you want to fully remove the dissy? (yes you'll need to remove the bolt, and the rotor button also, it's tight for space) 
if you don't know what you are doing, you'll need a mechanic to get it back in and working again.
 
i'll ask again, just to be sure.. why do you want to remove it(it's not 180 degrees out)

Thanks @gerg and @deankdx appreciate the responses 👍