XFChris

Bizarrely I solved this issue.
First was a new battery. The old one was poked.
I found, cleaned, tightened every single earth I could find, then with the help of the manual and member VDO found & checked some more.
long story short, those bulbs draw a lot of voltage & the guage is just telling me this.
I replaced all park, tail/stop & indicator bulbs with LED's the indicator & park ones have a load resistor built in & what do you know.....problem solved. All guages are stable and accurate with no flicking, dropping or other weird shi*
Happy with the result. The LED's are as bright & I got the coloured ones to match the tail light lenses which helps a lot.

The following is MY OWN OPINION and it should not be taken as such. Also, discussion is encouraged.
 
There is no need to be plumbing mechanical pressure gauges for liquids into the cabin this day and age. Especially when it comes to Oil at up to 90PSI and fuel.
 
Gauges of various accuracy can be used and there is no need to break the bank for an expensive band name gauge for most applications.
You don't need to know that your oil pressure is exactly 80psi. Really you just need to know you have it and that it is in normal range (20-80psi) so a $30 single wire gauge and sender off ebay will usually fit the bill.
Example:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-52mm-SMOKE-TINTED-LEN-LED-ELECTRICAL-PSI-OIL-PRESSURE-GAUGE-52mm-BLACK-POD-/261181021181?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3ccf9a1bfd&vxp=mtr
(disclaimer - the Dragon gauges are pretty dodgy. They work, but they are not "high quality")
 
Fuel is a bit more critical, Especially for fuel injection. So the more accurate 3 wire transducer and suitable gauge will fit the bill nicely.
Example:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pressure-Gauge-30-psi-2-1-16-52mm-transducer-boost-analog-input-LED-/261009679317?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item3cc563a3d5
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pressure-transducer-sender-30-psi-oil-fuel-air-/260785454553?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item3cb8063dd9
 
Unless you have a reason not to, you should always get a gauge that will give maximum resolution for the pressure you are measuring. What that means is, If your measuring 6psi. You would get a gauge with a 0-10psi range. If your measuring oil pressure (20-80psi) then a 0-100PSi gauge is what your after.
 
Some more info on gauges:
http://www.ozfalcon.com.au/index.php?/topic/2066-gauges-how-to-gauges-how-to/

My fuel pump is a cheap 'facet' style off ebay. It looks the same as the GOSS pumps SCA sell but without the branding.
 
I have changed my fuel system a bit, no pics as my phone camera won't play ball ATM.
 
After the pump, I have put in a hydraulic T piece. One outlet runs direct to the carb, with a Ryco Z14 filter in place.
 
The other outlet has a 0.5 bar check  valve put in, which runs to the factory fuel return line to tank, I put a cheap SCA brand filter in the rubber hose there.
 
Pump is not that much quieter, but idle seems a little smoother. I haven't done a road test yet.
 
I got my t piece, check valve and barbs from Pirtek for just under $50 all up.

Is your fuel pump still good?
 
A trick I saw a mate do was to block the intake completely while cranking the car to build enough vaccuum to suck fuel into the carb.
 
You can either block off the intake snorkel on the air cleaner, or take off the air cleaner and use a plastic cup over the carb airhorn.
 
But you need a working fuel pump for the above to work.

I also would go for 2nd hand paceys, you may get them cheaper.
 
The extractors you listed have a rather small outlet (2 inch). I'd go for something that has a 2.25 - 2.5" inch outlet.