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I don't know enough about the differences between the coilpack or dizzy wiring to know where there could be an issue. But it sounds like you're on the right track and still in the same area as my first post (dizzy signal) so keep going. I don't know how to test the dizzy without pulling it out, connecting it back up to the harness and coil and spinning it by hand to produce a test spark out of the coil lead. Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
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Got 12volt at coil ,12 volt to top of distributor, the leads were reading 2ohm have put the original ones back on that are reading 4-5ohm but still no spark,have takin j3 chip out of el ecu (which i intend to run) also tryed original xg ecu and no spark,my next guess is the hall sensor or tfi module???
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I once had a mechanical pump shit itself on a Sunday arvo, had to call a mate to come rescue me. I had a Goss mechanical on my 302, the built-in barbs seemed to cause the body to bend really easily when tightening up the hose clamps. It just seemed cheap and tinny. Never failed, but I deleted it anyway and put in a Facet chunka-chunka pump just out of the tank. I like it because it gives a definite warning when fuel is getting low (by going chunka-chunka a lot louder than normal) Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
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I'd be keen to see if the Daewha fuel pump diaphragm's are same as factory. If so, they may be available direct from Korea?
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It's more a matter of being able to find a kit even if you wanted to rebuild it. I've tried to find Holden 6 fuel pump kits before for customers at work, because originally they almost all had glass fuel bowls on the top, most aftermarket replacements don't so some people still want kits to keep them looking original. Near on impossible to find. Can't say I've tried for a Falcon one but I reckon they'd be just as difficult if not more
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Only if you want to retain the factory original Kirby Bishop fuel pump. In my experience, the Goss aftermarket pumps are trouble. If you have an original fuel pump on there, I would always suggest to rebuild it (same for Alternator, starter etc). If the original one isn't there, then yeah, the Fuel Miser pumps are a direct copy (made in Korea, by Daewha Fuel pumps ltd), of the original Kirby pumps, https://daewha.en.ec21.com/ For anyone with a Goss pump, going back to factory (or fuel miser), you'll need to source an inverted flare fitting, for the carby hard-line. (I believe they're tapered 1/8 NPT, to 5/16 inverted flare) Goss pumps have the flare fitting in-built. Factory and fuel miser pumps have a separate brass fitting.
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Thanks Bear
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XDjono joined the community
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Crossys are imperial, E-series are metric , so no go sorry mate Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
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As the title suggest. Does anyone know if am xflow head stud kit will fit a sohc engine? Cheers
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Dave will most likely be able to answer this one the quickest but I’ll ask as general anyway , Does anyone know of a factory option in the AUs for a VCR in the boot along with a DVD player with an entertainment screen in the cabin, apparently fitted with games as well? I have picked up a system out of a AU Fairmont that has the factory GPS set up, but it came with all of the above as well. Now before we all jump the guns, it ALL has Ford badging on it, and not just some Ebay stickers. I have all the wiring that goes with it. All I wanted was the GPS set up but it all came together. For the life of me, I have never heard of anything like it, excluding limos obviously, that may have had all those options but this was in a AU Fairmont sedan. I forgot to get photos before I left last week but I’ll post some next week when I get home, but someone might know in the meantime what the go is. The plan is if I get time during the Christmas break I’ll be installing it into the Silver Elephant.
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Yeah I’ve had a look fuelmisor do a new one for $83 so I’ll probably just go with that, shit timing though as I was going to get the blue slip today [emoji23] oh well guess it can wait another week or 2 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Hardly worth the hassle of even attempting to find rebuild kits for mechanical pumps these days
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Yep..... ^ ^ ^
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Check out Kilkenny Castings, South Oz. Should be available at Auto parts stores.
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Vic joined the community
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If fuel is coming out that hole it means you have a split diaphragm m, you either need a rebuild kit or a new fuel pump, and as Dean said, check you oil, you may have had fuel in the sump Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk
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there's nothing meant to go in there. i suspect, like the waterpump hole, it's designed to let the fuel out(coolant on the water pump) when they fail.. you'd need a new fuel pump is My suspicion., lucky it's not going into the sump, infact, you should check your oil, if it's thin or higher than it was.. change it also because it will be contaminated with fuel and not as good with lubrication but can also cause other issues if so. @SPArKy_Dave will probably be able to confirm this
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66XP4DR joined the community
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Can anyone tell me what is missing from that hole on my mechanical fuel pump?!is it supposed to be a hole there or a gromet?fuel is pouring straight out and I can find a diagram anywhere to work it out Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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I broke one of these on my donor motor. Looks easy enough to find new plastic ones. But are there brass versions out there?
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Yeah il check all this out tomorrow,as when i crank it now its not even coffing or backfiring.yeh very tru you never know what someone has done to it prior.will give ya an update in next day or two cheers for ya help
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Time to go back to basics, like power to coil, coil output, leads, that sort of stuff. You've be amazed at what random problems can happen simultaneously but may seem related at the time. The "flooding" could just be spark breakdown. I recently got an XB going that had been converted from points to electronic, but after doing coil, leads, plugs, module, found that the previous owner had used the feed for the 9V (ballast) coil to the new 12V one. Weak spark was the result. Bypassed it all straight from the battery, started first kick. Moral of the story: check supply first. Fuse panel could be corroded, burnt or melted fuse terminals, someone could have fitted a kill switch that's gone bad, a crook relay somewhere.... So much fun to be had Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
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The j3 was tuned for stage 3 cam,220cc injectors, disable smartlock and t5 gearbox.iv just had the dizzy apart with a mechanic and is fine.running about 40psi fuel pressure,i have also run an-6 braided fuel line with new fuel filter.it was running rich and was about to tune the fuel pressure but now have no spark but winds over
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Sounds like it's drowning, what mods were done with the J3 chip? No spark is a bit suss. Is the dizzy in good nick? What fuel pressure are you running? Why do you need to run higher pressure with the bigger injectors? Was this all part of a package, or did you put this together yourself? Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
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Hey have just rebuilt a ef block 94dt head with stage 3 cam and valve springs ,220cc injectors (au),aftermarket fuel regulator, and el ecu with j3 chip.running original dizzy out of original xg motor.iv managed to get it started and idles fine but over 3000rpm wants to die,now when i wind it over it has no spark and is flooding any suggestions?? Cheers
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steve48 joined the community
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Cool, see how you go. Think of it this way, it ran fine before, so you just need to fix chewed wiring. Only thing could stop both fuel pumps is the fuel pump relay. You fixed the other two relays in the kick panel, and still have no fuel pumps, so must be that.If petrol guage is switching between tanks ok, will be that.
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thanks jack I did find your uploads of wiring ect but when I downloaded an try to enlarge them they came out blurred an difficult to read. when the daughter visits I will get her to have a go at downloading the pics as she knows her way around computers better than I. I found one of the relays was burnt out and the wire had plastic covering burnt/melted. looking at your photos that you posted of xg setup is identical to xh. cheers Demmo
