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Alex Brazendale changed their profile photo
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David Howarth joined the community
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sounds like a plan, not that keen on taking that manifold off so I'm thinking of taking the choke cover off and stuffing it with aluminium foil to block off one side and see how i go.
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with the Lexus LS400 i had, it was easier to remove the headlight.. which wasn't hard. not sure what the ford ones are like
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Worst part is getting your hand in there, especially if it's an outer globe. May be easier to remove battery (driver side) or airbox (passenger side) depending on the size of your hands. Then as said, rubber boot off, squeeze connector with hands and it'll come off, could be stuck on if hasn't been out for a while. To remove the globe theres a metal spring clip that unclips. Remember when installing the new globe not to touch the glass with your fingers or it'll blow way quicker than you want.
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Yeah I blocked mine off ages ago when running a full metal Holley due to severe vapour lock. Now that I'm running a Street Demon with the composite body (just like a thermoquad) it's hard to get a lean enough tune for economy but still have it driveable when it's cool outside. As it is, it takes a good 15 minutes for the stumble to clear up. What I would suggest is block one side of the crossover to give a minimal circulation of hot gas. . Another trick could be to partially block it by using a bit of thin stainless steel but drill it out with say an 8mm drill to restrict the flow. The crossover heat on mine got so savage that the engine paint was starting to burn away around the crossover ports. Remember these engines were designed for North America, which gets brutally cold in parts compared to here, so we don't need anywhere near as much manifold heating as they do. Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
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I’m running this exact setup on the missus’s ESP, goes hard, pretty got fuel economy, ( not that it’s something I care about ), and when you get those secondaries open it sings a sweet tune.
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As above, and BA and BF are the same.
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Is it the same as BA? If so, squeeze the sides of the wiring plug to release it from the terminals as you pull it back, take the rubber seal off the back of the housing, globe is held in by a spring clamp just look/feel for the light grey wire thing and gently push it in a little then sort of upwards to unhook it from the housing, globe should practically fall out. Reverse to install. I just changed my au one with one I harvested from the ba donor. Don't know if bf is different.
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I wasn't sure if i would run the crossover but its a street car so would probably be in my best interest. new vally pan come with a thin gasket for the bottom of the pan and rtv for the top. realy excited to run the thermo and see how it performs its a rebuilt unit.
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So a stupid question :P How do you change a headlight globe in a BF Falcon. I'm use to the older models where is was simple to change the globes, and honestly from the looks of it looks like a pain in the bum :/
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Goldie Wattle changed their profile photo
- Yesterday
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i noticed you used the pressed metal intake gasket and the normal gasket ? looks good
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Also nice to see a thermoquad in good condition. Great carbies when running right. Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
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Nice job. I'm doing the same, TQ onto Eddy performer, but, bought an adaptor plate from Summit. Been slack as ..... still not fitted.
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Thomas Roach changed their profile photo
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Looks good, you will have to drill out the bolt holes to take Allen key capscrews though. That's unless that manifold has a dual bolt pattern for either spread or square bore, then you just use long studs that go straight through. Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk
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Timothy France changed their profile photo
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So... anyone running a thermoquad on an alloy intake manifold? I've used a speco adapter and ported it to flow better in the opposite direction and butterfly clearance. just got to match the adapter to the manifold now.
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stretty joined the community
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Gday, I have used pallets cut in half and flipped over, I screw 6 cheap solid plastic casters (local tool has them for 3 bucks each) to the underside (technically the pallet top) for once the motor is at home, but agree the old tyre with ratchet straps to all corners of trailer work really well
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One of those what if moments.. Generic car ramp.. It looks like it will sit under the sump lip but can't be 100% sure because my engine has a trans attached. It looks good though and makes a cradle easy, just chock up the back end for transport and weld legs on it later.
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That's what you meant to say isn't it?
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I agree with knocking up a trolley, then mount some castors when you get it home. Always a problem having a dead engine in the way......
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Under the rear wheels = good
- Last week
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i've moved heaps of them with the sump bowl sitting in the guts of an old tyre. tie it as Rod said on the second post. tie to alternator bracket, inlet manifold and exhaust manifold. if it's a bare block, you'll be struggling to find things to tie it to.. find some bolts and get something that can bolt to the engine(seat belts i've often used) and tie from them. if it was empty of oil, i'd even lay it on it's side. but if you do that, make sure it's not going to dribble oil from anywhere (onto the road = bad)
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Got a couple star pickets laying around and a welder?
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I think i should be ok. We have a left over timber sleeper sitting here i can cut up. I love to make a steel crate/dolly for it. But timber will be faster and easy
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If it had trans you could have borrowed my trolley gizmo, currently has the xf motor on it. Have you got something to work with or want help to knock one up?
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Complete engine, no trans
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Is it just the engine/block or trans as well?
