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Ok so iv just finished the motor in my xf, zero'd block, 20cc 30thou up pistons, heads an e1 with 40thou off of it, standard vac advance dizzy, msd Street fire (had it lying around) and blaster coil, but. Standard webber. The engine is flat. Cam timing is spot on, dizzy is at 18degrees initial, idle is as expected. My question is will a bigger carby help? Or is something else a miss. I also have a c1 head here, would that be worth shaving and fitting. Thanks

 

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What gearbox diff gears? you need on the shorter side for gears with that cam

webbers not upto the task but it should at least work till it runs out of puff

and whats the comp ratio? you need as least 10to1 for that cam to work any good 20cc slugs and E1 head I doubt will have anywhere near that ive just done a slapper for gramps and I had to stick the slugs out of the block to get it to 9,8 but im using a camtech 528s and it will have a 600 on it but ive done pleny of 650 combos now and all have worked to some extent but I always make sure it had comp ratio over 10

and what valve springs you need good springs with that cam or it will not rev

and how much advance does the dissy have? if its at 18 now pull it back 6 or 8 and see if it comes to life 250s love timing but unsorted I think its got to much it will be going past 32 if its not been fiddled with

if you need more help stick up more info

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Honestly mate I'm unsure of comp ratio. Never worked it out, it's currently auto, with the standard 2.77's but even out of gear it's sluggish. So would the c1 be a better option?? And it will be a t5 with 3.45 gears shortly. Springs are the recommended ones from crow, as are retainers and collets. If I drop the timing down it idles like a dog, simply won't work. And no matter how much Timing I stick in, it's doesn't ping. Starting to think the comp ratio is way to low. Turns out my other head is a c2, so how much could I theroticly shave off the head?

 

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Comp ratios to low it may have other issues but that's one of them

How can you pull it into gear as a auto? that cams way large for a stock stall convertor and 2.77s man it will have legs :D 

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the carby and manifold is aso a issue but in saying that ive never run a stock carby and manifold with any camed up engine so I cant give you much input on that ando?

rob sell this guy your 4barrel and holley?

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Hmm I'll get the c2 cleaned up and stick it on, it's starts great, idles with a very healthy note. Cams dialed in, shows 20in vacum at idle. Just no response.

 

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What intake manifold would you recommend, a aussiespeed or redline? iv also got a nos rochester quadrajet here, supposedly its 735cfm. Might try make that work.

 

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I used a cam tech 528 on an otherwise un-opened engine with stock intake and carb , went quite well . Timing was 12-14 degrees . 20in of vacume seems high??

Ditch the std dizzy and get an est or tfi(with the modual removed) and that will lock the timing up , set it to around 28* to start with . You don't have to go all out on an intake manifold , anything 4barrel will do . But you will need an adaptor to fit the quadrajet .

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My msd isn't programmable. So I need the vac and mechanical advance, just pulled the dizzy down, seems the mechanical advance was stuck, gummed up with years of shit.

Cleaned it out, heaps better but still seems sluggish. What sort of vac should I be aiming for? Iv been told the more the better at idle? Am I wrong?? Thanks for all the help guys.

 

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camtech 528 works with 9.5 comp that's why I picked it over the crow 650 I knew it would work better as ive run it before oww that and it was like $78 cheaper the the crow unit

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20in of vacume is good! It just seems like a lot to me because my engine has 5in at idle haha

I wouldn't be too concerned about it being sluggish with the auto and 2.77 . Just get it running OK and once you change the drive line it will wake it up a lot and you can tune it from there . It won't be particularly responsive with factory timing , the cam needs around 20* initial timing . A quick Google search should point you to a thread on the xfalc site where there is some good pointers on how to re map the dizzy .

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My engine has 10.3-10.5 CR. It's using 29.3cc dished pistons with a skim off the top and valve clearance in the piston (hence the not exact comp as was measured before the valve clearance). My cylinder head is a C2A and it has been shaved A LOT, combustion chamber is layed back and valve shrouding removed measured at 42cc.

If you have the C2 head on a bench, do yourself a favour and measure the combustion chamber so you know exactly what you have, otherwise you will just be guessing again at the comp. Just put the valves back if they have been removed, get a clear piece of plastic over the combustion chamber so it doesn't leak and measure with an accurate measure like a syringe or dropper. Once there is no more air under the plastic and before the liquid flows out the little hole you drilled in the plastic to get the fluid in that's your cc's.

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Here ya go, a pic of my combustion chamber before it was ported. The only real difference to how it was after porting is the edges of the chamber have been smoothed so there are no sharp edges.

Barginheadatpurchase2_zps538cd46c.jpg

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Ok so plan is, cc the head. Get the intake manifold (redline or aussie speed) if the c2 head is around 47ish cc then I'll have it shaved, and fit the bloody t5 iv got on the shed floor!

 

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My msd isn't programmable. So I need the vac and mechanical advance, 

 

 

 

No you don't. You have been told wrong... 

 

Really? Care to explain please. I don't like the mechanical advance..

 

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This has been covered 200 times already but I can tell you mine runs locked timing (30 degree's on the crank) and has forever with zero issues when used with a TFI dizzy. Mossy runs locked and many others have and do. The added spark stability and bigger signal from the halls effect dizzy when used with a MSD shits all over a electronic unit.  

 

Yes it will start fine no it won't rattle no it won't blow up and yes it WILL run better.

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Cool, thanks mate. I'll dig.one out of the shed. Do I ditch the module and just use the hall effect?

 

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