LJDB 103 Posted November 3, 2014 So i brought 2 xflow bottom ends off ebay as a bit of a mystery buy. the guy told me one was a reco that had done 20,000k and the other a speedway engine built by a pro strong speedway cam, better timing chain, pistons, balancer ect. When i get them to work on wednesday il strip them down and have a better look. limited atm due to engine stand being used and shit everywhere. So what i know so far, start off with the one he told me was the speedway engine. 86da block, Its got a modified sump but damaged, pistons part number RA4101z 030. I took the balancer (which looks standard) & timing cover off and no double row timing chain. Removed the chain and gears, cams stamped 250r pull it completely out and its got a ford part number. So this is starting to look dodgey. Turn my look to the other engine with no sump and spin it on its side. bingo i can see a double row chain and a standard JP oil pump. Remove the balancer which looks similar to the standard but alittle different and timing cover. Its a rollmaster multi keyway timing chain set, Remove chain set, cams marked 570, no other real marking. Pistons look shallower than the 1st engine and part number RA9411x 040, 84da block and looks to be balanced as some crank counterweights look to have had some taken off. Any info on the build would be appreciated or anything i should check or anything people want me to look at/pull apart let me know. i know most speedway guys have there own little tricks maybe we can dissect this engine to see what was done differently to improve/hinder this engine cant upload pics it tells me they are to large Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ICEWOLF 53 Posted November 3, 2014 sign up to photobucket and upload your pictures there then you just copy the IMG tags off there and paste them in your post Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ando76 4,354 Posted November 3, 2014 9411 is an acl 250/250 rod piston with a bowl (not flat top) Not real sure on the 4101z but a picture might help Cam is not a Tighe, Crow (or one of their master billets) or Camtech. Could be a Camtech master grind as their hydraulic cam profiles start with 5 and are 3 numbers long? That is all I have. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LJDB 103 Posted November 3, 2014 I stripped the engines alittle more this morning. The reco engine pistons have ACL on the underside and a deeper bowl than the speedway engine. Everything else looked good and clean so i only removed the modified sump which i damaged. Pulled the speedway engine down. Looks to be balance and has arp conrod studs, bearings all looked fine except No.1 & 2 conrod bearings. The block also looked to be zero decked. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LJDB 103 Posted November 3, 2014 wont let me add more pics Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wagoon 2,429 Posted November 4, 2014 When adding pics there are only so many you are allowed in one post, so if you have more just make another post Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LJDB 103 Posted November 4, 2014 i tried that but no good. http://s1378.photobucket.com/user/lezzy23/library/xflow%20engines?sort=3&page=1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ando76 4,354 Posted November 4, 2014 That bearing damage is due to improper cleaning of the block on assembly by the looks. Pull that cam with the 570 on the snout and see what is on the other end of the cam shaft. I'm not real sure about that sump but it may work.. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LJDB 103 Posted November 4, 2014 Nothing on the other end of camshaft, the only other marking are CWC, C2 AND H 23 which are all cast into the shaft not stamped. i dont plan of using the sump only put photos up for peoples amusement + my cars a corty. He did give me a good falcon sump also. I already have a pretty good combo in my corty, but i like to tinker and the blocks where cheap. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ando76 4,354 Posted November 4, 2014 Ok well maybe contact camtech or just take it to a place that has Cam pro programme to see what it is. Good score if you got them cheap - balancing and machining costs serious money. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LJDB 103 Posted November 5, 2014 Had crow read the cam. very similar to my current cam. Uploaded pics to photo bucket. Pic in top row is new cam, bottom row is cam in current combo. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LJDB 103 Posted November 6, 2014 So I pulled to sump of the reco engine again. No1,2,3 conrod bearing cap arrows face to the front of the engine and 4,5,6, arrows face to the rear. on the side of the rods/caps they are stamped with which cylinder number they suit and they line up. I thought all arrows are to face toward the front or is it correct, its a 86 da block. pic on photo bucket. Also the pistons are marked acl duralite on the underside. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LJDB 103 Posted November 6, 2014 also found out that the ra4101 pistons have a 21.8cc bowl and the deck height is .040" Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gerg 10,871 Posted November 6, 2014 As long as the pistons face arrow forward it doesn't really matter on a 6 cyl. V8s are a different a story. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LJDB 103 Posted November 6, 2014 Ok what i have in total to work with, 3 blocks, 2 heads, 3 cams. What would be the best way to go for an awesome streeter/drag.Keep in mind its a cortina, 3.7s 4 speed and i already have streetfire msd, tfi dizzy, rollers, 4 barrel 570 street avenger, 'hitech' extractors 2.5 exhaust 78DA .030" acl 8cc pistons jp hv oil pump think standard deck height not sure if balanced 84DA .040' acl 8cc pistons standard jp oil pump balanced zero decked 86DA .030" 22cc acl duralite pistons .040" deck height standard oil pump no balance early unmarked alloy head hf4 slight porting milled to around 47cc h/d springs standard c1a head cam 1 inlet 226@.050 .506 lift exh 234@.050 .524 lift cam 2 inlet 222@.050 .515 lift exh 224@.050 .521 lift cam 3 suspected standard 250 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wagoon 2,429 Posted November 6, 2014 My pick would be the 84DA block for a couple of reasons, 1: it's balanced so can rev safely 2: 8cc dish means higher comp means more horsepower 3: Zero deck height is related to 2nd reason more comp and better squish 4: has standard oil pump. Use the unmarked head as that should keep the comp down to pump fuel friendly and has slight porting(which you can improve upon with a die grinder and some direction from one of the very knowledgeable folk on here or if all else fails I can help ). Some one with more knowledge will recommend a Cam as they are pretty close but it comes down to head flow and intended use of the car. Lastly what inlet manifold do you have. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LJDB 103 Posted November 6, 2014 i was thinking the 84da aswell but i dont wont the comp to be to high for pump fuel. i have a redline 4 barrel manifold. i also uploaded a pic of the head combustion chamber and the best pic i have of the inlet ports (which is old i now have an electric fuel pump). i dont mind having to buy a bigger cam as i can build the 84da up then just swap the head over when it time to install it all. Thanks for you input by the way. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Clevo120Y 815 Posted November 6, 2014 In my opinion none of those parts marry up well, 84da with unmarked head will still be too high in comp, the 1st cam may bleed off some comp with it's overlap but touch and go for a street engine. You would be crazy not to use the 84da balanced assembly, with the unmarked head maybe the crow master grind 730 on a 110 lsa would get the dynamic comp close for 98 fuel, she will be rather grumpy. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ando76 4,354 Posted November 6, 2014 I's use the balanced bottom end without a doubt but I would be searching for an unmarked head that hasn't had too much taken off it and transfer the springs over to that. I'm not a fan of either of those cams but if you want to use one then I'd go with the cam 2 - but really you would be better off selling the pair of them and buying a new cam to suit you application. With some serious chamber work you could get the c1 head out to around 55cc which would bring the comp down a bit around the low 11's high 10's but you would want a decent cam to bleed off a bit of comp and she would be 98 only - which is no biggy really. Depends what you want and what your budget is. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LJDB 103 Posted November 6, 2014 When I measured the comp on the 78da engine with the unmarked head I got low to mid 11 I cant remember exactly. I was having problems with pinging using the first cam and ignition timing was way down. Which head would bring the comp down to a safe level using the 84da with a bigger camshaft. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wagoon 2,429 Posted November 6, 2014 Wow I did not think the comp was going to be that high with that setup, I always thought the unmarked head had a much larger cc. There you go, I still have a lot to learn. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LJDB 103 Posted November 7, 2014 Put the 3 engine details into a comp calculator using the unmarked head 46cc. 84da =12.5.1 8cc zero deck 78da= 11.3.1 8cc .040 deck 86da= 9.5.1 22cc .040 deck Seems like I'm going to need a different head if I want to use the 84da bottom end on pump fuel. Will a bigger cam bleed off enough cylinder pressure. 12.5 is massive Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Clevo120Y 815 Posted November 7, 2014 you won't get a streetable cam to bleed that much off, like Ando said find an untouched unmarked head and go from there. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ando76 4,354 Posted November 7, 2014 ^^^^^^^^^ what he said. Getting comp out of a crossflow is piss easy - not like pesky Holdens. 1 Clevo120Y reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
