NZXD 2,328 Posted September 15, 2014 Evening team. Im after peoples choice of oil for the single rail. Ive had mine rebuilt and had various types of advice on oil. The book states ESW-M2C37 SAE 30 at 1.87 litres. What is the equivalent? Cheers Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
PRO250 1,506 Posted September 15, 2014 20/50 engine oil Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
NZXD 2,328 Posted September 15, 2014 Yes that was one recommendation, along with 20/40. I also read people using auto fluid mixed with engine oil in top loaders. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gerg 10,871 Posted September 15, 2014 I've gone 80W-90 and ATF before, worked well. A light gear oil would work too (say grade 50) or if you can get hold of some ST50 Detroit Diesel engine oil, works well too, that's also spec'd for some jap truck boxes. I tend to think that plain old engine oil isn't up to the task of lubricating gears under load. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
NZXD 2,328 Posted September 15, 2014 I've gone 80W-90 and ATF before, worked well. A light gear oil would work too (say grade 50) or if you can get hold of some ST50 Detroit Diesel engine oil, works well too, that's also spec'd for some jap truck boxes. I tend to think that plain old engine oil isn't up to the task of lubricating gears under load. What about straight 80w-90? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gerg 10,871 Posted September 15, 2014 What about straight 80w-90? The syncros won't like it. The EP anti-friction component in gear oil means your syncros won't grab and you'll get slow, baulky gearchanges. Thinning it down with ATF allows them to work much better. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ando76 4,354 Posted September 15, 2014 I ran straight 80-90w in the race car - but as gerg pointed out the shift is not pretty. I only ever changed from 1st to 2nd so it was not a big issue but in a road car it would be. I went to Valvoline Durablend 80-90w gear oil and the shift improved out of sight and the oil stayed cleaner longer. The actual physical weight between the mineral oil and the Durablend was noticeable. 2 NZXD and gerg reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
OGRE 2 Posted September 16, 2014 I deal in selling oils as a wholesaler. I use a universal tractor transmission hydraulic oil. Its illegal (well here in NZ) to be used on the road as it has no colour. But it works great. Is equivalent to a 10w30 (SAE30 pretty much) Benefits are that is has a wet brake additive which is a friction modifier. Gets those synchros gripping real well. Another option is motorbike engine oils that are made for the wet clutch as well. Has the same friction modifiers. Next best option would be a GL4 75w90. 2 NZXD and gerg reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
xe1984 64 Posted September 16, 2014 20/50 was all I used. 1 NZXD reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
NZXD 2,328 Posted September 16, 2014 I deal in selling oils as a wholesaler. I use a universal tractor transmission hydraulic oil. Its illegal (well here in NZ) to be used on the road as it has no colour. But it works great. Is equivalent to a 10w30 (SAE30 pretty much) Benefits are that is has a wet brake additive which is a friction modifier. Gets those synchros gripping real well. Another option is motorbike engine oils that are made for the wet clutch as well. Has the same friction modifiers. Next best option would be a GL4 75w90. Cheers for the input, where in NZ are you located? I'm in Wanganui. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
OGRE 2 Posted September 16, 2014 Im in Rotorua but originally from Palmerston North. Been to wonderful Wanganui enough times though Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
NZXD 2,328 Posted September 16, 2014 I'm always talking about leaving wangas, but never happens. Very affordable place to live.... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites