whole rebuild kits brakes steering suspension

[jamie247 542]

Ok guys I need to know where the best place is to buy all new kit components for power steering,brakes and suspension I'm redoing and overhauling my whole front and rear end any help would be good I have seen rebuild kits on ebay but is there a more trusted place

[Outback Jack 6,352]

RRS, they are expensive but they do good kits with quality components, check em out mate.

 

Jack.

[BigCav 464]

it has nothing to do with the place and everything to do with the brand

 

what sort of level are you going to? my front end cost me 2.5k (at staff/trade prices) just in parts but im talking not a single product in there wasnt replaced and they were all replaced with the most expensive brands etc

 

let me know if your after standard replacements, or koni/whiteline/nolathane type gear etc and i can point you in the direction of the best prices

 

if your after off the shelf standard basically get the brand name stuff out of repco or bursons etc

[gerg 10,871]

Biggest gains are with firmer castor rod bushes. If you can put up with slightly more road harshness, go with the firmest neoprene type to give a more direct feel, particularly on hard cornering/braking. Next step up is an RRS ball/socket arrangement, which is the ultimate, and pricey. The rest I'd go neoprene as well if your goal is for better than stock handling. Power steer box: there are needle roller conversions covered elsewhere here and are worthwhile upgrades.

[jamie247 542]

was just going to go a normal replacement to the originals as its a street car not going to be racing it at Bathurst if you get my drift

[BigCav 464]

in that case go mackay consolidated bushs (good enough for ford to choose as there oem replacement)

roadsafe paja, trw, wasp ball joints and tie rods etc, trw are i think threw repco, roadsafe threw everyone, wasp threw everyone i think

shocks id use kyb or if lowering ultima short shocks, i personally like to spend the extra money on koni reds as they outlast the gas stuff by a fair bit

standard replacement discs go dba or rda, there are plenty of cheaper ones but these are only marginally more expensive

pads i use qfm but bendix is good too

wheel bearings i use timken, if its japanese its generally good and cbc or bearing wholesalers all do good stuff, you can check the actual brand of the bearings as its writen on the race

steering boxs are easy enough and most places use the same supplier for their kits, we have a soon to be announced forum sponsor who does a great job including the xg upper bearing conversion for a very good price

brake rebuild stuff is all available by PBR, probably the only brand you can get

[jamie247 542]

cheers bigcav for that wealth of knowledge i'll look into it and start buying items I thought of going wild with the setup etc but didn't want to loose its originality and thanks for the others guys who commented aswell for your input its all helping me out with this build so cheers

[jamie247 542]

ok after some google searches I have come up with this as a package only doing front end as I'm going to remove drum rear and replace with a disc rear 9inchg diff

 

so front end consists of

4x wasp inner/outer tie rods, wasp upper/lower ball joints, wasp pitman arm to suit power steer, toro front dilled/sloyyed disc rotors, qfm brake pads with girlock front calipers, allied bearing kits x2, nolathane control arms, nolathane spring saddles, koni red short fronts ( whats springs do I get?) and new rebuild kit for power steer and pbr brake rekit anything I missed let me know

[gerg 10,871]

That's a pretty comprehensive package there mate, what is the total cost of it all? Is it within your budget? I can see a couple of issues: all that effort swapping callipers for the same stopping power as stock? Also I'd advise against cross-drilled rotors as they have a habit of cracking. Slotted is fine for the street. Have a look at Baer kits for Mustangs... Might be worth it if you're wanting to upgrade.

[jamie247 542]

haven't priced power steer or brake booster rekit but for the rest is $900 I just need to know what springs to go now there is so many to choose from i'll looked at the slotted rotors thanks

[jamie247 542]

any thoughts on a new sway bar for v8 application would be great aswell

[agentkiwi 110]

http://m.ebay.com.au/itm?itemId=291153578422

 

I also bought these boots for the ball joints & tie rods as the rubber tends to crack & split

 

If you are happy with King Springs then KFFL0 for the front are low but not ultra low. KFRL27 rear. You'll need short shocks for the rear with any lowered springs.

 

Your list is pretty much the list I just got too but I got a new wasp idler arm with 1 urethane bush & 1 rubber bush.

 

I wouldn't bother with drilled rotors either. Slotted are ok but really chew through pads.

 

What size sway bar is on yours now?

[jamie247 542]

not sure just a 6cyl swaybar will have to measure

[jamie247 542]

I did see that kit will most likely buy it and change them over

[agentkiwi 110]

I think they are made up to 30mm. 21mm is standard I think. 27mm is ideal in my opinion

[jamie247 542]

cheers for the info i'll check the swaybars out I came across a 24mm whiteline kit for $170 the 27mm is $190 any1 used this brand

[JGP 14]

If your in melb goto Hi Tek brakes(http://hightekbrakes.com.au/), they price well & know there stuff.  They did my XD front brakes (standard replacement) ,my xr6T with dba T3 all round & EBC reds and my territory.  

other than that I just bought all nolathane bits from ebay for the XD and got my mechanic to install, could probably find cheaper as mentioned.

I have whiteline swaybars F+R on the XR6T, great product(alot of ppl use them) and well priced.  I tried pedders for the same and the price way more expensive (i think at least 600 F+R if i remember right).

[BigCav 464]

whats the engine combo? in my v8 i run a 27mm whiteline, had a 27mm in a 6 cylinder once and it suffered from understeer, id go 24mm if 6 cylinder

 

iv only ever used king springs, stick with the recommended superlow (depending on what height you want i suppose) for your engine, i went the v8 ultra low which is just a 6 cyl superlow and its too soft

 

i also changed to girlock alloy calipers mainly because i could and i had brand new ones available, dont alot of difference too them so i wouldnt bother unless you really wanted to, something to consider when your doing the brakes too depending on your budget is new brake lines, rubbers are about 40 bucks each, braided are 80 each, i always put braided in mine for peice of mind but thats up to your budget i suppose

[jamie247 542]

will be  393 STROKER CAV

[JGP 14]

oh yeah forgot to mention I also have superlow kings on the XD front(superpro bump stops), and 2"blocks on the rear.  doesnt scrape and drives well.  the shocks are those suzukisuper(ebay seller) shortened set.