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XEESP351

Replacing v8 alternator from 85amp to 120amp

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Hey guys have had an ongoing problem with charging on my clevo extra items are electric fuel pump, EL thermo fans and MSD..Upgraded to 85amp alt but still had charging problems..The other day was driving along lost ignition everything..Put another battery i had that was charged and still no dash lights or anything..I know i must have blown something but i hope i havent cooked anything..The wiring is all original so wasnt upgraded to handle the extra amperage..Now i have decided to upgrade to 120 amp and am in the process of upgrading the main charge wire with 6 gauge..My problem is the main charge wire from the alternator runs up the harness some where i guess to the fuse box..My question is  how does it go back to battery? Also can i upgrade charge wire straight from alternator to battery? but then does the original wire still have to be connected?

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wiring on the xe was all redone there chase so you can copy that

 

i thought the factory wire only went to the fuse wire behind the battery but could be wrong

 

you will be able to connect the battery to alternator direct. if everything else doesnt work then just join the old wire from the loom to the positive on the battery

 

i tried a few different things and had a number of problems especially killing regulators so just bit the bullit and put a powermaster 120amp (may of been 150, cant remember) single wire in, idles at over 80 amps, only problem i had from then was spitting belts due to the small pulley but apparently factory pulleys fit back on

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i thought the factory wire only went to the fuse wire behind the battery but could be wrong

 

 Do you mean the fusible link as according to wiring diagram i think it splices in? I cant seem to find a main fuse but should i add one if going from alt to battery?

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its not a fuseable link as per a modern car, its a length of special fuse wire, yellow in color from memory

 

iv never had a problem with going from alternator to battery, id probably put a modern fuse inbetween dash and battery though

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120 amp. Do not use 6 awg. Get 4 awg and be done with it. 6 is a bit small for peak load at 120 amps. And yes. Go directly to battery, do not pass go, do not collect 200 dollars. Make sure you upgrade your negitive wire from the batter to engine and engine to chassis with at least 4 awg.

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120 amp. Do not use 6 awg. Get 4 awg and be done with it. 6 is a bit small for peak load at 120 amps. And yes. Go directly to battery, do not pass go, do not collect 200 dollars. Make sure you upgrade your negitive wire from the batter to engine and engine to chassis with at least 4 awg.

haha listen to this man!, I say go all the way and use 0ga, least you know you got plenty!

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also because your about to make your own big cables

 

 

I use a fatboy blow torch from bunnings with heavy gauge resin core solder. I made my own terminals with a piece of copper pipe, cut to length with one end hammered flat and a hole drilled into it. Because im a cheap ass. =P

 

Or see an auto elec and ask if you can use his heavy crimps.

 

 

 

*edit*

This guy knows his shit but he carrys/drags on a bit. for those interested in soldering large cable:

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