Nolathane vs Standard LCAs?

[Trev Vaa 1,185]

ok so i got underneath the xc, and it turns out one of the control arms is damaged, so my question is, i now need new lower control arms,

 

to rebush and pinch a second hand one is going to be cheap (only gunna cost me $80 or so inc ball joint a side), but i run the risk of cracking them again. also noticed the inner bushes are flogged after 15,000k

this car HAS to pass a rwc, so what arms have you guys had experience with?

 

im looking at nolathane or RRS i can get the nolathane arms (which have bushes and balljoints already in) for less then $200 a pair. i just dont know how strong they are, anyone used them in an Xseries?

[mcfly94 169]

I was in your situation not long ago, but It end up costing me $140, for second hand arm, lca bush and lower ball joint, nolathane complete arms where about $220 which I believe are actually factory ford items recond, or remanufactured to same spec, and then you have the rrs arms which have a riveted brace and I think there something like $450 last time I got a quote.

 

Id go second hand arm, nolathane bush, trw ball joint and do it yourself, unless you love race car mode? then you could go rrs

[Trev Vaa 1,185]

well i know the nolathane arms use a different bush to the stock falcon arm, i'm not too sure on why though.... i'd much rather have bolt in balljoints then riveted ones, they're a pain in the ass to replace.

 

lol race car mode is an understatement.

[bear351c 10,272]

Nolathene will last 3 times longer, but gives a harsher ride. Standard (neoprene) rubbers are a lot more compliant. For everyday use I'd say go standard, but, if you corner on rails............Nolathene. Unfortunately, the double wishbone suspension chews up rubbers, mainly due to the wonderful conditions of our roads.

 

Dont get me started.

[mcfly94 169]

I have nolathane throught the front and is a harsher ride yet corner and steer well

[Trev Vaa 1,185]

ive got nolathanes all through the xc and i was sitting on the bump stops in the front end (im so pissed i have to raise it, i just cut the bump stops 2 weeks before i got canaried so it wasn't sitting on them anymore ). lol not really worried bout the ride.

 

im honestly just curious about wear n tear, and reliability.

 

i meen, its all well n good to go chuck a set of RRS ones in but im only going to throw the money at them if theyre worth it (which tbh i cant see the value in atm, they dont look any stronger then factory other then having some sheetmetal riveted to them which i can do)

 

i cant really see the point in redoing the original ones for $80 a side when i can have a brand new pair for less than 200.

 

i am looking at purchasing tie rod sleeves from RRS and the caster arms as well

 

RRS VS GW

RRS

http://www.rrs-online.com/lowerarms.php

 

GW

http://www.globalwest.net/1967-1968-1969-1970-1971-1972-1973-mustang-front-suspension-parts.html

 

 

see i would buy the GW product as i can see the value in them, they shit all over the RRS

[bear351c 10,272]

Get the Nolathene if your not bothered about the ride comfort. Especially the front sway bar, (if you have one).

[78xcgxl 241]

I recommend Nolathene on the lower control arms , sway bar bushes , caster rods and idler arm. Don't bother putting nolathene on the upper control arms and the rest as it will do is make the ride harsher. Raising the suspension from the bumps stops will make it ride and handle much better. This set up matched with good springs, shocks, 27mm front sway bar, 18mm rear sway bar, roller bearing spring saddles and roller top conversion to the power steering box will make for an awesome handling car!

[Trev Vaa 1,185]

got custom springs been made for it once i have the roadworthy (for the moment stock springs are going back in), the car already has nolathane bushes all through it (upper control arms, leafs, steering bush, everything). its just a case of whether i use Nolathane ARMS or factory ARMs not just bushes.

 

car has got koni shocks in it, 27mm sway bar but i have to pull it off for the RWC, and no sway bar in the rear atm (pulled the factory one off with intent of going 18mm). the car isnt on bump stops anymore due to the fact i cut them into 1/3, so i need to replace them as well which is no issue because i still have the original ones from when i changed all the bushes and they were perfect.

 

where can i get roller bearing spring saddles from?? i like the sound of those, and i have to get the steering box reco'd so can someone tell me what bearings the need rollers are?? or if i can get a kit to do it at home with the needle roller bearings in it?

 

remember this car has a lot of good bits in it, its just a simple case of correcting a few things to get it back on the road, only reason i'm even looking at LCAs is because the factory one is cracked on the passenger side.

 

in regards to the castor arm bushes, i have nolathane in there atm, and i think they're shit, under hard braking the amount of toe out is ridiculous. hence going to bearing type castor arms once rwc is done.

 

ideally id like to have bearings all through the suspension but on the street thats a bit hard to pull off.

[mcfly94 169]

I recommend Nolathene on the lower control arms , sway bar bushes , caster rods and idler arm. Don't bother putting nolathene on the upper control arms and the rest as it will do is make the ride harsher. Raising the suspension from the bumps stops will make it ride and handle much better. This set up matched with good springs, shocks, 27mm front sway bar, 18mm rear sway bar, roller bearing spring saddles and roller top conversion to the power steering box will make for an awesome handling car!

what are roller bearing spring saddles?

ive done most of this, and yes great handling, whats the benefits of bigger rear sway bar?

[Trev Vaa 1,185]

less body roll, forces the car to stay upright rather then leaning, if one side pushes up the other side is pulled down to counter act the effect.

 

roller spring sadles hes talking about instead of having a bush inside the spring saddle that it has a roller bearing, makes it freer to move.

[mcfly94 169]

less body roll, forces the car to stay upright rather then leaning, if one side pushes up the other side is pulled down to counter act the effect.

 

roller spring sadles hes talking about instead of having a bush inside the spring saddle that it has a roller bearing, makes it freer to move.

mm well I just ordered a front 27mm for the xf, maybe rear will the next thing to do

[Trev Vaa 1,185]

yeh just dont go to thick or the ass will slide everywhere.

[mcfly94 169]

yeh just dont go to thick or the ass will slide everywhere.

whats a good size ive seen 20 or 24mm

[Trev Vaa 1,185]

20 tops dude, you really dont want the ass that stiff, you wont have sticky enough tyres to hold it down, see if you can find an 18mm bar. its not just thickness you need to look into its torsion strength.

[mcfly94 169]

yeah I actually may have around 19/20mm from factory if I remember correctly, ill get the vernires out and have a look.

[78xcgxl 241]

Mcfly94 because your car has coil springs and watts linkage (assuming you are talking about a XF sedan) you can go bigger on the sway bar than on a rear leaf spring car and 24mm should work good in your case. Another good mod for the rear suspension for your car is to fit an AU diff hat with lowers the watts linkage pivot point.

[78xcgxl 241]

got custom springs been made for it once i have the roadworthy (for the moment stock springs are going back in), the car already has nolathane bushes all through it (upper control arms, leafs, steering bush, everything). its just a case of whether i use Nolathane ARMS or factory ARMs not just bushes.

 

car has got koni shocks in it, 27mm sway bar but i have to pull it off for the RWC, and no sway bar in the rear atm (pulled the factory one off with intent of going 18mm). the car isnt on bump stops anymore due to the fact i cut them into 1/3, so i need to replace them as well which is no issue because i still have the original ones from when i changed all the bushes and they were perfect.

 

where can i get roller bearing spring saddles from?? i like the sound of those, and i have to get the steering box reco'd so can someone tell me what bearings the need rollers are?? or if i can get a kit to do it at home with the needle roller bearings in it?

 

remember this car has a lot of good bits in it, its just a simple case of correcting a few things to get it back on the road, only reason i'm even looking at LCAs is because the factory one is cracked on the passenger side.

 

in regards to the castor arm bushes, i have nolathane in there atm, and i think they're shit, under hard braking the amount of toe out is ridiculous. hence going to bearing type castor arms once rwc is done.

 

ideally id like to have bearings all through the suspension but on the street thats a bit hard to pull off.

 

 

I would just use factory arms. I have to disgree on nolathane castor arm bushes as they are far better than the rubbber ones, something not right with yours???  As for roller bearing saddles you can get them shipped from the US I got mine from here ---> http://www.opentrackerracingproducts.com/rollerperch/ Also in regards to the bumps stops even though the upper control arms aren't resting on them you still need a decent amount of travel between them. Stock Rear sway bars on XCs are 18mm.

 

Roller bearing top for steering box, price has gone up used to be $90

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/POWER-STEERING-BOX-LID-FORD-XA-XG-F-SERIES-HOLDEN-HQ-WB-6-V8-KIRBY-BISHOP-/290938507978?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item43bd4952ca

[mcfly94 169]

I would just use factory arms. I have to disgree on nolathane castor arm bushes as they are far better than the rubbber ones, something not right with yours???  As for roller bearing saddles you can get them shipped from the US I got mine from here ---> http://www.opentrackerracingproducts.com/rollerperch/ Also in regards to the bumps stops even though the upper control arms aren't resting on them you still need a decent amount of travel between them. Stock Rear sway bars on XCs are 18mm.

 

Roller bearing top for steering box, price has gone up used to be $90

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/POWER-STEERING-BOX-LID-FORD-XA-XG-F-SERIES-HOLDEN-HQ-WB-6-V8-KIRBY-BISHOP-/290938507978?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item43bd4952ca

bloody oath the caster arm bushes are good!.

 

I have just bought a reco box with this mod, will make a huge different to my black slop box in their now.

[SPArKy_Dave 8,882]

Roller bearing top for steering box, price has gone up used to be $90

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/POWER-STEERING-BOX-LID-FORD-XA-XG-F-SERIES-HOLDEN-HQ-WB-6-V8-KIRBY-BISHOP-/290938507978?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item43bd4952ca

 

Those steering box roller tops are made by Newcom I believe - http://www.newcomindustries.com/

 

Newcom are also the guys who make the Pedders springs.

[Trev Vaa 1,185]

yeah im just not impressed with the castor bushes.... i have toe out dialed in so when i brake it exxagerates the effect, and at 200km/h it gets rather squeemish and it darts around a little more than id like.

 

mcfly just so you know with semi slicks (Khumo KU36s)i ran 22mm rear swaybar on my EL but it was custom made, and a lot stiffer than an off the shelf one, probably equivilent to a 24mm whiteline. it was awesome but on street tyres it wouldn't hold as well as the whiteline 22 i had on there previously.

 

i have never owned an XF so it could be completely different.

[Trev Vaa 1,185]

just looking at that opentracker site, that have a lot of good stuff in there!