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Hi all have 86 carby xf 4.1 with a electrical problem. After pulling the car apart trying to fine the fault I have decided to buy a bypass distributor (est) is there any other part needed to get some fire in the wire. The distributor is a two wires system it's a old school design but has no points . Is there any other part to get it going

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48 minutes ago, Fordfella said:

Hi all have 86 carby xf 4.1 with a electrical problem. After pulling the car apart trying to fine the fault I have decided to buy a bypass distributor (est) is there any other part needed to get some fire in the wire. The distributor is a two wires system it's a old school design but has no points . Is there any other part to get it going

 

that's not an EST dissy, that's the leaded one

if it's got the chip inside the cover on the side, then it just goes red to plus coil, and black to negative coil and it will work (assuming your coil is getting power)

 

you should unplug the EST dissy from the left kick panel if so, as i've had issues with them still being plugged in when fitting this dissy. 

 

it looks aftermarket, where did you get it? @SPArKy_Dave may have heard if there are any issues about them or not

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1 hour ago, deankxf said:

 

that's not an EST dissy, that's the leaded one

if it's got the chip inside the cover on the side, then it just goes red to plus coil, and black to negative coil and it will work (assuming your coil is getting power)

 

you should unplug the EST dissy from the left kick panel if so, as i've had issues with them still being plugged in when fitting this dissy. 

 

it looks aftermarket, where did you get it? @SPArKy_Dave may have heard if there are any issues about them or not

The parts den Ebay mate

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8 minutes ago, Fordfella said:

Next challenge is or do I run a relay like a spot light setup to the positive side of the coil ?? 

 

Have u tried fitting a replacement proper EST distributor?

 

The Bosch Electronic Spark Timing systems are fantastically simple, and rarely if ever fail.

Hall effect sensors inside the distributor do fail on occasion though.

 

 

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I have the car pulled apart to fine the problem all I rember that Friday after noon it just stoped right in the middle of a intersection with no fuel pump and no spark . So by jumping wire to the pump it works elimination 1 eliminating 2 no power to the coil . And a burnt smell in the vehicle.??

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4 hours ago, Fordfella said:

I have the car pulled apart to fine the problem all I rember that Friday after noon it just stoped right in the middle of a intersection with no fuel pump and no spark . So by jumping wire to the pump it works elimination 1 eliminating 2 no power to the coil . And a burnt smell in the vehicle.??

 

Carby XF's have a mechanical fuel pump.

Does yours have a custom setup?

 

If there's underlying wiring issues, a new distributor may not solve the problem.

 

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The fuel pump is 12v .the old mechanical pump is still sitting on the block lol not connected. I have yet to disconnect the est .the fuse block is all good have checked the wiring underneath the dash with a touch and followed it back to the est and couldn't fine any trace of burnt wires .have noticed when the pump is connected to the wires that go to the coil the pump struggles to pump.witch is the green and red and the pink blue wires so when you jump it from another source of 12 v the pump is fine . Back to the spark so the wires that I mentioned plus the three wires that go to the Dissy is part of the lume that heads back to the est .I think ???. 

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Green/Red is permanent 12v ignition, and also powers the carburetor's choke coil and carby fuel-cut solenoid I believe - @deankxf?

(sometimes also tapped into, for LPG converted vehicles)

 

Pink/Blue is the tacho wire, only in use when running a tacho cluster.

 

The EST has a wire to the carby throttle stop (basic on/off TPS)

Three wires to the distributor in one connector

A 12v supply,

a negative wire to ground the coil as required

an A/C compressor on/off reference wire to bump timing/idle speed

plus a couple of wires to a diagnostic connector, near the brake booster

 

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On 6/23/2024 at 11:46 PM, Fordfella said:

The fuel pump is 12v .the old mechanical pump is still sitting on the block lol not connected. I have yet to disconnect the est .the fuse block is all good have checked the wiring underneath the dash with a touch and followed it back to the est and couldn't fine any trace of burnt wires .have noticed when the pump is connected to the wires that go to the coil the pump struggles to pump.witch is the green and red and the pink blue wires so when you jump it from another source of 12 v the pump is fine . Back to the spark so the wires that I mentioned plus the three wires that go to the Dissy is part of the lume that heads back to the est .I think ???. 

Where is the pump wired in? And are you still running a carby, If the pump is hooked in somewhere it shouldnt be it might burn a fuse/fusible link (there are two yellow wires near the battery that go into a plug also a seperate green wire but I'm not sure if that's for the est). Also if you're running a carby I'd hook the mechanical pump back up. With the dissy if you really just need it going, just run a separate keyed wire to the dissy and coil and fuck with the est down the line. Remember ford spent millions inventing this shit and it does its job well. 

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1. Get a voltage reading at the positive terminal of the ignition coil with KOEO (key on engine off)

It should be 90% of the battery voltage 

 

2.Also, there should be a relay fitted for the fuel pump.

Which will prevent it draining current from the ignition coil and so dropping the voltage measured above 

 

3.Something to consider: When ignition switches fail they will only make intermittent contact between the terminals inside the switch 

 

4. Measure the resistance of the primary and secondary coils of the ignition coil

The primary coil is susceptible to burning out and becoming an open circuit 

In which case the resistance will be infinity

 

 

 

 

 

 

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