Change steering coupling in-car - XF Ute power steering

[iamaelephant 35]

My steering coupling is stuffed and I've ordered a new one. I took a look down there and with the Clevo, headers and brake booster there's not a lot of room to work in. How is this thing held on? Is it just the two bolts on the steering coupling, or will there be a central nut holding it onto the steering box spline? I'd really like to do this in the car without removing the steering box or brake booster if possible. Or is this going to be more trouble than it's worth?

 

Some pictures and video of the coupling.

[deankxf 20,294]

17 minutes ago, iamaelephant said:

My steering coupling is stuffed

that's possibly stuffed because the steering column is further back than it should be. (needs tapping down/levering down so the rag joint is not distorted)

 

i can't remember on the power steering ones, i think they bolt in from the centre of the shaft @SPArKy_Dave to the rescue again. 

probably is doable in the car if so. but i'm not sure if there's any traps to look out for (aka should it be in the straight ahead position or full lock when doing the nut up etc)

[SPArKy_Dave 8,881]

center clamp bolt onto steering box splines, and two bolts onto steering column.

May need to remove steering box, to change the rag joint properly.

[iamaelephant 35]

Silly question, if I remove the power steering box does the PS system need to be bled? Pretty sure the answer is no, but steering is quite important so I'd like to get it right.

[deankxf 20,294]

8 hours ago, iamaelephant said:

Silly question, if I remove the power steering box does the PS system need to be bled? Pretty sure the answer is no, but steering is quite important so I'd like to get it right.

it will self bleed, but you only need to crank the engine for a second or so and the pump will need topping up again, so do that a few times so the pump doesn't run dry (they can get noisy if running with no fluid for longer than 10 seconds even)

good question 

 

the silly question is one that isn't asked (that's what our trade school teacher taught us anyway)

[Thom 6,651]

One thing that can catch you out, the bolts that hold the rag joint to the steering shaft and steering box need to be completely removed not just loosened as the prevent the rag joint from sliding off when still fitted

[iamaelephant 35]

Ok so I started getting into this in the weekend and I don't think it's happening with the steering box still in the car. I can't get the steering column shaft to telescope backwards far enough. I will pull the box some time during the week. I am hoping to keep the pitman arm attached to the box, will the ball joint come apart easily or am I in for a fight? Other than the ball joint it looks easy, disconnect the lines, undo 3 bolts in the guard and drop it out the bottom. The coupling bolts are already out.

[deankxf 20,294]

33 minutes ago, iamaelephant said:

Ok so I started getting into this in the weekend and I don't think it's happening with the steering box still in the car.

 removing the steering column was how i thought you would do it.

that would give you access (not needing to telescope the end)

unplug the wiper loom, blinker loom and ignition loom, and undo the 10? screws you probably cut your hand on undoing the rag joint bolts,  and the 2 or 3 under the pedal box and the column should come out (i haven't done it for 20yrs so check @CHESTNUTXE thread for a pic of it removed) 
might be doable then?

 

37 minutes ago, iamaelephant said:

will the ball joint come apart easily or am I in for a fight?

the way to undo these is to strike the drag link on full lock with the nut loosened(not removed, so it protects the threads when you miss)

or you can get wedge type separators for tie rods(size that will be) or ball joints

*I've never used them.

 

 

crap video i found with google to show how on a ball joint

 

[iamaelephant 35]

Thanks for your help on this guys, I have been putting this job off for ages but finally got it done. Pulling the steering box out is the way to go. The central nut on the coupling is not tight, but it has a locking tab piece that needs to be bent with a fine flat screwdriver to unlock it, and a locking washer thingy. No way it was coming off while in the car. I used the tuning fork style ball joint separator to remove the pitman arm from the steering linkage.

 

I had to pull the drivers side header to get it out the bottom. A pain in the neck, but it gave me an excuse to install some brand new Pro Flow stainless headers I have had lying around for ages, and they fit great. Much nicer than the crusty old Pacemakers I was running. Also took care of some sway bar and leading arm bushings that needed doing.

 

Now I just need to pop out for some ATF to fill up the PS reservoir and it'll be all done.

 

I took some pictures that will hopefully help someone in the future with this job.

https://imgur.com/a/OBWTbNV

(VIDEO LINK totally shagged rag joint compared to new one) https://i.imgur.com/ie8KtNP.mp4