XCeed

Hi All, I came across something interesting today, electronic distributors that you program the advance curve with your smart phone. https://progressionignition.com/shop/ols/categories/ford Thought this might be of interest as an alternative to say a 6AL-2 etc. I read somewhere they're manufactured in China but use US electronics with Apple/Android software. Anybody know anything about these?

Hi Warren, I haven't done a Barra swap, but this is all about calibration, as with the speedo. XE gauges are calibrated to receive signals from XE sender units. Can you fit an XE temp sender unit to the back of a Barra head, with an adapter if necessary (and extend the crossflow loom from the front to the back)? Same with the oil pressure sender unit. Temperature is temperature, pressure is pressure, so the signal coming out of the XE sender unit is understood by the XE gauge. Voltage out of the Barra alternator is voltage, so the XE gauge can understand the output voltage signal. I take it you're running a standard XE dash cluster with an Economy gauge. I believe that gauge runs off a vacuum signal. I suggest you find where the vacuum line taps into the crossflow and replicate it on the Barra. The tacho signal for a Barra is more complicated regarding aftermarket tachometers. Check out: http://www.thebarraguide.com/tachometer-signal/ I believe you'll need an adapter. Member 'Ants' has a great Barra into XE project, "Sleeping with the fish". The info that you need might all be there.

My old boss often said, "You can't improve what you don't measure".

This might be what you're after car10001. My XF efi is in storage so I can't get a photo just yet. I printed these out, trimmed them and sticky-taped them together. XD didn't have efi, don't know if XE efi is the same as I haven't studied the schematic.

So the plug you've circled in the third picture is definitely the place to look. You should have three wires into the back of that plug, a brown/white stripe, a brown/orange stripe and a red. The red wire runs back to the EEC relay and the other two go to the ecu. I assume you've got a multimeter so pull the solid red wire off the relay (NOT the red wire inline with the fuse that runs to the battery) and set your multimeter to ohms resistance. There should be a dead short, zero resistance between the end of the wire at the relay end and the plug end that you've circled. If you get zero resistance, that wire is fine and your problem is elsewhere. If you get infinite resistance, you have a break in that wire and you'll need to find where. I'm assuming the colour of the wire you're testing is red. That's what the ford wiring diagram states. If the colour of the third wire in that plug is not red, is there a matching colour wire at the relay? Pull that off and test for continuity.

That fuse is between the battery and the relay and it appears you have direct power to the relay. There should be another red wire running from a separate terminal to the injector bank. Ignore the other two wires (a red/green stripe also runs from another terminal to the ignition coil +ve, and a fourth black wire for earth). You said you have checked the injector terminals and there is no power. I suggest you disconnect the negative lead on the battery, then unplug the other red wire from the relay (not inline with the fuse) and apply 12V to it from the battery. Grab your test lamp or multimeter and try to find where the break is in the line to the injector loom.

According to my Ford repair manual, power comes from the EEC relay. Fused link wire from the battery to the relay, red wires from the relay to the injectors. Have you checked the fuse in that pink fuse housing?

The Ford Falcon is dead. Long live the Falcon. I'm taking a moment to reflect on my past loves, an XT was my first. Then I loved an XC, an XB, an XW, another XW, an XE, an XF, and it all began with my Dad's XY. I still have 3 Xfalcons to love, and a tolerant wife. Mmm, that reminds me, wedding anniversary on Sunday....and Bathurst....mmm, better do something nice...quick!

It has the (high series?) storage bin with A/C ducts and vents for rear passengers. This extract is from the parts manual. Do you know how to interpret all this 'ORB' and 'ARB' stuff? 'S' means 'selective fit', that's the only definition I can find in the manual. Almost looks like there was a standard 'narrow' radiator fitted to cars with A/C prior to 01/86.

Greetings, I'm rebuilding my BW40 from an XF Fairmont wagon and need a handy tip on how to remove a pivot pin on the passenger side of the case. According to the XF parts catalogue, there's an o-ring in there to replace and I can't budge the little bastard. Inside view Outside view Ford parts manual with highlighted o-ring I'm referring to... It appears to me the pin inserts from the outside in, but I'm not 100% sure. I would appreciate some guidance before I turn up the aggression, thanks.

Stuff the pin, I've decided to move on and reassemble. Mr. Polson, don't think it's a factory tow bar as there is no trans cooler installed (and the rear valence panel is butchered ). Sparky, thermostat housing isn't blanked off. Be interesting to get the Ford report. That's a Japanese GMB water pump so this part of the engine has been worked on (has matching numbers block and C1 head appears to be period correct so may be original).

Good one Slydog, good one. Yes I've read about the much maligned BWs but when I started pulling it apart, it was still in very good condition overall. I drive like a grandpa and the engine is stock so I decided to stick with it and get a rebuild kit and some bushes. There is a shadow of a texta mark '2004' inside the case suggesting it has already been reco'd before. I think it was the usual suspect heat that lead to the demise of this box. I have a mystery that Sparky_Dave or Polson might be interested in (having read about Polson's monza red wagon build). This car (85 XF Fairmont wagon) has never seen a wide radiator despite factory fitted aircon. It has the sticker in the side window and the centre console with air ducts to the rear. However, it has the steel fan and an old 78DA plastic shroud that has been hacked a bit and is the only non-original looking part on the car (ignoring the wheels and bull-bar). So from the look of the rusty gunge in the radiator overflow bottle, a new radiator was fitted, the old steel fan cover was chucked and an old plastic shroud was fitted to try and improve cooling efficiency. I'm waiting on a reply from Ford regarding the factory build details to confirm the factory fitted air, or not. I'll be fitting a big new PWR trans cooler independent of the radiator to protect my investment, and fit a wide radiator. Ok, that's my second coffee, off to the man cave to have another crack at that pin..........

I don't think it was leaking but everything else was. The tranny fluid smelt burnt when I took the pan off. Hence I want to replace every bit of rubber in the box. Yes my kit has the replacement but no there is no direct access opposite. The diaphragm spring let go, allowing the piston to lurch forward and the lip seal to burst out (just above 9 o'clock in the photo) and jam the forward clutch engaged. I bought the car and drove it home like this, smooth as silk, only going forward of course. It still wanted to go forward when selecting neutral, and locked up when selecting reverse. I'm thinking about using a heavy duty sliding bar clamp and putting a socket over the top of the pin to press against the case and squeeze the pin back through. If that doesn't work, I think I'll reluctantly move on.