XTREME KARTS XF

On 23/09/2017 at 11:13 PM, deankdx said:

mark might have spares, he's wrecked a few crossflows
stick 3 more in, she'll be right

Yep, got a couple of sets in the shed from 3 engines i pulled down, 2 were 200 xflows (just for the conrods)

I bought new pushrods for my crossy back in 2011 from Crow Cams, just standed replacement ones of course

A V8 will solve the issue of the strut tops not fitting properly LOL (sarcasm)

If it was me i'll be shortening that negitive battery lead a little (so it doesnt rub on the rad support and or bonnet) and turning the terminal around abit

When i last drove my XD (this winter just gone) it was running abit too cold for my liking (like 140F - 150F) So i tapped up half the grill with a piece of cardboard and 2 inch electrical tape. Looked stupid but it worked and got the temp up to 170F-180F   (didnt get any pics)

1/4" UNC you'll need chris, mesure the thickness of the gasket and the cover to determine the length of studs/bolts you'll need

What @Mr Polson and @ando76 said. EA accel pedal will be also fitted. Cable wont be bolted to the firewall like on eariler cars, has a sqaure end where it clips into the pedal base.

A mate of mine used a Ryco filter kit when he serviced the C4 in his XC Monty, no issues with quality.

Just remember when you remove the filter, theres a spring and a pressure limit valve and BE SURE NOT TO LOOSE THEM! When you remove the filter the spring will come first then the pressure valve, take your time and be careful as it may spring out on ya! Reverse order for installation

EF and EL are different from each other and XH is different again (from what i've been told) I used an XH 6 cylinder one for my XH V8 S Pac (mine doesnt have the fast ratio steering rack like XR models do) Bolted straight in and no issues. They only go on one way as there's flats on each end for the pinch bolt to pass through. You'll be able to do it in about 5 minutes, change it out from underneath the car (thats how i did mine being a V8, 6 cylinders through the engine bay given the amount of room there is) You'll need a hammer, flat blade screw driver (helps with opening up the clamp ends) 10mm spanner or a 3/8 drive ratchet, socket and breaker bar (use the breaker bar/handle first so you dont destory the ratchet mechanism)

If you pop your head under the dash and take a look where the clutch cable goes on XF to EL/XH (wouldnt suprise me if AU where the same) you'll see that its double skinned and "almost" ready to take the XC-XE clutch cable bracket or the hydro master cylinder   Just drill and chop whats required

Yep, as what @Thom said. Also take the cap and rotor off before taking the distributor out

On 5/22/2017 at 9:27 AM, deankdx said:

My tip regarding windscreen rubber removal(to reuse) is wait till summer.. when the rubber is soft.

we got BGDAVs F100 windscreen out without issue but it was much warmer.

does the escort  have a locking strip? that helps if so..

i got Marks XF ute window out without breaking the glass or damaging the seal from memory. same process i always use, lift up seal inside the car and tuck an extension cord or similar under it and keep doing that all the way round and by the time you get to the beginning area it will probably be out.. risk to reward ratio? as Rod says above... whats cheaper? a seal or a windscreen
 

Yep i remember that, old electrical extension leads work quite nicely. Had that window out in no time

On 4/4/2017 at 0:20 AM, dex said:

Bloody mini's everywhere ,,,

 

some top shots there 

Insert Michael Cain voice here

2 hours ago, Mr Polson said:

Seen on a car at Vic AFD - spoke to the owner who fabbed his own brackets and used a "universal" compressor off eBay.

I remember that ESP from AFD a couple years ago, was walking around with Dunolly Dave (pro250) when we wondered over to it. Dave and i spoke to the owner. Very nice car, one of my favorites

On 3/29/2017 at 8:44 PM, Panko said:

 

 

 

just a cool photo from saturday night @ PenLink  

 

 

 

 

Looks like a V8 Escort to me with that stance and those wheels LOL (well to me everything needs a V8 LOL)

As for the steering wheel being loose on the spline, i had that issue once when i bought a bosskit for my XD. Sent it back and they swapped it for a SAAS one and no problems.

Flux capacitor?

Bosch GT40 and GT40R coils are for points ignition. They'll cause voltage (9-10 volts or so due to the ballest resister inside the coil) as points only needs 9 to 10 volts to work. The module on the side of the distributor could be on its way out so i would recommend replacing it. Wont need to pull the distributor out to replace it.

As for the indicators i can only think that it could be a dodgy earth or the flasher can unit is supect.

If you can't smell gas from the large hose to the mixer, then the converter might be faulty. They often fill up with gunk from impurities in the gas. You'll have to cycle the key to get gas to flow out. They can be overhauled but a new one would be around the same price as getting yours fixed.

 

If you're that keen, crack the fitting on the high pressure side going into the converter to see if you have liquid. You'll have to cycle the key on and off to get the solenoid a to open for a second.

 

Keep in mind that it's illegal to work on the high pressure side if you don't have a gas ticket.

 

Afterwards, check every joint that you've opened with soapy water from a spray bottle and look for bubbles.

+1 what gerg said.

Have you tried starting it with full throttle? I know i used to start my clevo when it was on straight gas with full throttle and it fired up every time.

If your looking at replacing the converter i have the B2 converter from my XH that i'll be will to part with.

Unless it slides only the centre pin, and the locating pin is seperate, if that makes sense?

 

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

Yeah something like that

hahahaha ok guys. Mark you are on the money. Like i said, we "fixed" the issue when we installed the blocks, i never told you how we did it mainly because i was a little weary of criticism

 

what we did (and i didnt take photos ) was relocate the pin in the block i installed on the driver's side of the car. See the blocks for the escort where 2 piece. the block was flat, with a large set screw with tapered was that was the pin, about 10mm heigh. So we removed the pin, and drilled and tapped a new hole off set to the guide hole on the lower side of the block. bob's your uncle it fixed it. we moved exactly the 10mm we needed to. 

Thats alright, at least one advantage is with adjustable blocks is you can shorten the wheel base or set the lead of the diff one way or the other depending on how you want it to turn in. Pretty much its like an equivalent to "stagger" (one tyre is bigger than the other, again commen in speedway as seen with sprint cars)

Now hang on ,,

All it would be adjusting is the length of the outter " shell " of the lowering block ,, forward or backward ,,,

 

The center pin ,, and leaf spring bolt locating " hole "

Would still be instu ,,

It'll be adjusting the location of the centre pin far as i know

After a quick search, it does move the locating pin

Link here, 2nd comment

http://www.dragstuff.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=956

Now hang on ,,

All it would be adjusting is the length of the outter " shell " of the lowering block ,, forward or backward ,,,

 

The center pin ,, and leaf spring bolt locating " hole "

Would still be instu ,,

It'll be adjusting the location of the centre pin far as i know

So the diff is not square/ 90 degrees to the chassis rails? One way to square up/adjust the "lead" in the rear end is adjustable lowering blocks. If you mesure the wheel base it'll be different from one side of the car to the other AND one side will have "toe in" while the otherside will have "toe out"

Adjustable lowering blocks are commen in America in circle track racing and speedway.

Something like this

That standed trans cooling setup is very much identical to what Scania and Mercedes Benz buses have with the ZF 9 speed Econo-Life auto boxes. Far as i know they are trouble free. I can only assume that the setup between N/A and Turbo is the same? Maybe ask someone at a Ford dealer maybe?

Was meant to also add to my post. M.A.N buses as well have the same setup.

Cheers Mark & yeah, i'll be talking to Ford local Monday.

No stress mate The ZF 6 speed is an awesome auto but expensive to service and fix

Ford Transits had a very similar one for the engine oil, in the equivalent spot too. We did a couple, but Transits are shitboxes. Maybe monitor the gearbox oil temp before splashing out on an expensive upgrade that may not be needed.

Those new transits are FWD i've seen. Your not wrong about them being shitboxes, a mechanic mate of mine at the Ford dealership in Geelong did an engine change when it near new lol

That standed trans cooling setup is very much identical to what Scania and Mercedes Benz buses have with the ZF 9 speed Econo-Life auto boxes. Far as i know they are trouble free. I can only assume that the setup between N/A and Turbo is the same? Maybe ask someone at a Ford dealer maybe?

Was the flywheel machined/resurfaced properly? Correct endfloat in the box for lay gear and mainshaft?

Iv never heard of eccessive crank endfloat causng driveline shudder but it could be casuing it. Only way to find out is to put a dial indicator on the nose of the crank and use a prybar between one of the counter weights and a main cap.

are you sure its a h and not a u because by the cast date code there is no H for clevo blocks,d2ae just means of cleveland design,1977 

Yes it is a "H"

Hey fella's

I just picked up a 351c for my XD. half an engine minus the heads for $500 bucks.

Its a Cleveland cast Block with "CF" and D2AE-CA (Cobra Jet block from what i found)

The casting date is 7H24. I cant seem to find anything on here or the net to find out what exact date that the block was cast (unless im not looking hard enough LOL)

Anyhelp will be greatly appeciated

+1 on ASR, from what i've been told about them looks like i'll be getting 2 for my 2 engine builds