XF EDDIE

She came good! Message me and ill get it shipped off

I plugged it in and its not working fully. I stuck it in the tank and its reading low but it came up a bar after sitting for 5. Ill leave it in overnight and see if it comes good

3 hours ago, deankxf said:

nah they've just plugged in and worked for Me on base models other than needing the oil sender.
 

i can't think of anything at the moment that would cause it. 

Ill just throw a new regulator in when I get home and just see what happens.

Highest voltage at the dashboard was 13.5v so that doesnt seem to be the problem. Is there some kind of sense wire Im missing from my base model?

Checked the links and found no voltage drop but at the alternator I was getting 14v. This dosent seem high enough to set off the cluster but Ill check the voltages at the cluster to see if anything is funky there(if anyone has a pinout it would be much appreciated) but if not Ill just throw another regulator at it and see if it fixes it.

1 hour ago, deankxf said:

 

the information on the issue for the cluster might start on the previous page to this
it was a common issue even 20yrs ago for the S pack clusters,  i bought an XF with "low oil pressure" cheap once and the issue was just the cluster. 

 

 

I already tore the dash apart and cleaned up the shitty joints and cross checked it with my ghia dash so I dont thing thats the issue but the voltage is testing good at the battery so I cant see what gives.

Heres the video of the issue on the ghia cluster

8 hours ago, deankxf said:

 

don't trust the S pack cluster for flashing oil pressure unless it has been tested with a separate gauge, there's a few threads on here now on how to fix that cluster flashing issue particularly on S pack clusters, but the ghia ones have also done it due to cracked solder joints on the board

 

I don't have the spac sender in yet but the oil pressure light is glowing dimly while I'm driving although I'm verifying it with a mechanical gauge before worrying about it. I'll probably ditch the spac cluster as that volt gauge issue is pissing me off

Well the schedule has been moved forward as the oil pressure light started coming on as I was driving, time to find out if the marketplace motor is any good!

A bit off topic but I'm having a problem putting an s pac dash in the XF. When the car is off the volt gauge is normal but when I start it up it climbs all the way up untill only the red segment is blinking, I am having the same problem with the ghia dash. The alternator lamp is working as it should and it tests at 13.3v with a multimeter so it seems like gauge issue.

On 2/24/2025 at 7:20 PM, Nato of Falcons said:

If you did have one spare, I would be incredibly grateful and would offer you some more than $10. Thanks very much Eddie youre a legend.

 

Yeah no problem, won't be able to test it till the weekend as my tub is full but if you want it just shoot me a message

20 minutes ago, deankxf said:

 

i do wonder if any of these are particularly sought after for exporting overseas.. 

 

issues i have with this one, 

where's the before photos? was it rusty? the odometer cogs stuff up, was it actually broken for 20yrs and stuck on 70,000kms still?

can't see the trim on the seat for wear, (seat cover)
can't see the floor mat for wear marks/holes (drop in floor mat pictured)
can't see the rear van floor for dents (under carpet), had it hauled bricks etc? 
pretty sure it's missing the wind deflecting panels for the radiator sides, was it in a crash? 

the bonnet cable isn't run the correct path, the radiator top rubber cover isn't fitted

if you look at the door striker it's got a wear gouge in it that makes the suspected hinge area of the doors look like they must be cracked. (not consistent with 70,000kms also)

 

$30,000 in receipts? can't see it. 

@SPArKy_Dave could pick even more holes in the ad for "Period original restoration right down to the shade of tint" (they never had tint) 

 

 

 

 

Yeah even if it is what hes describing its still not worth the price in my eyes with it being a base model xf. Still if it truly was cared for all its life why would you repaint it? 

Completely off topic but look at this "sweet" deal 

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1655352515356760/?ref=search&referral_code=null&referral_story_type=post&tracking=browse_serp%3A48cbd7b3-f7c8-4ef4-8b68-d8ca64676bad

34k for an xf!

13 minutes ago, deankxf said:

 

is the hole in the bleeder blocked? 
the hoses can fail and get blockages also. 
if it works, it works, but if the hoses are sus, i'd change them or at least put them on a list when the budget allows

 

I did a half assed rebuild on both the rear slaves so I know they are clear of debris and the hoses seemed okay but they will be getting changed along with all the other rubber components as time goes on

13 minutes ago, deankxf said:

 

from my understanding, the oil filter should save the crank etc, but the oil pump will be sucking all this junk up unfiltered (just the screen) 

not sure of anything else,  but i'd personally stick another engine in and not even bother rebuilding the other. (assuming the replacement is any good)

 

That's probably gonna be the go for the time being as I gotta get my fg out the door first. I get that the oil pump will be cooked but if the journals aren't gonna be too affected then I'll just bump the idle up and swap it next weekend. I do wanna do rebuild the original more of an exercise in engine work than for any practical purpose although if the bores and bearings aren't too bad I'll probably just clean all the metal out of the engine and just do a cam swap and reseal. The one going in has unknown k's but he said it was running sweet before he swapped it for a V8 and it comes with some extractors already bolted on. 

On 2/20/2025 at 7:48 PM, Nato of Falcons said:

Hey Everyone! Good to see you all again! Back at it with the XF and having fun.

 

Hope I've got the right thread (forums not being my strong suit ha!)

 

Anyone know where I can get a fuel sender for this unit or has anyone brought an equivalent/universal that would fit?

 

I cleaned up my old one, did the dance with making sure it worked but stuffed if I cant find anyone selling another.

 

Please and thank you as always, I've learnt so much from all of you.

Ive got one out of my XF, I'll test it tomorrow but if it works you can have it for $10

1 minute ago, deankxf said:

 

cam metal is pretty hard, if it gets anywhere it will do damage. 

Ahh so it would be best to get it fixed sooner rather than later. Would it just mess up the bearings and oil pump or will it scrag the journals as well?

Well the Idea sorta worked. It didn't just flow out when I cracked the bleeder like I hoped but it definitely helped get the air bubble out of the system when pumping the brake (even after adding the fluid back in it was down a quarter from what it was). The setup was pretty crappy with it leaking air from everywhere but with some more work this could make life that bit easier. Still probably easier to just buy a vacuum bleeder!

22 hours ago, deankxf said:

 

My failsafe trick I invented? (i've never seen a video of it or mention of it) 
is to get fish tank bubbler hose or clear hose from bunnings etc (not sure what it's used for, but i'd call it one man brake bleeding hose)

 

basically get s bit of rubber hose that fits over the bleed nipple and also the clear hose fits in..
make sure the brake reservoir doesn't get too low in the process, but basically crack the bleed screw and gently push the brake pedal down and slowly up and watch the air bubble go the full length of the hose and even back to the master cyl if you have a long enough length (2meters is enough to watch the bubble/s until there's no more from the drivers seat. 

 

 

I suppose that would have a similar kind of deal to the standard one man bleeder (with substantially less fucking about). There isn't a store that stocks that stuff where I live otherwise I would give that a try. My idea was to modify the a spare reservoir cap and install an air fitting into it, then just pressurise the reservoir to a few psi and just crack the lines (kinda like a reverse vaccum bleeder) I'll give it a try tonight and get back to you with the results

Well after taking it for a drive its apparent that the cams disintergrating again so Ive organized another engine to swap in while I rebuild this one. So if anyone has any links to a good bearing kit/gasket kit for the old 250 it would be much appreciated. I want to do a full overhaul on it as when I changed the cam the first time the cam bearings looked cooked. Also would driving it around as it is do any damage to it that wouldnt be fixed via a rebuild?

Its now officially on the road! Even I still dont get how it passed with some of the rust and bushings but its now registered. Tomorrow ive got a bag of bushings to install ready for a 2hr trip on Sunday, Im also gonna try an idea for a power bleeder to try and get a pesky air bubble out in the rear brakes, so if it works Ill post a photo of that too.

Well its been a while but I have good news. With the seat I just zip tied the springs back together and shes good as new, Im keeping the ea seat untill I get done with the roadworthy but then Ill switch back to the xf seat. Took it to the mechanics today and all he knocked it back on was some bushings an oil leak on the fuel pump and the exhaust so I ripped the exhaust out of an xg that was in a car graveyard near me and turns out apart from needing to die grind out the holes on the cat pipe it bolts right up (looks better too) so that was a success too! Ill get the bushings done tommorrow and hopefully thursday Ill be able to post a photo with plates.

Ok so Ive got my new compression tester and got some new results

Cylinder 1: 90 psi

Cylinder 2: 90 psi

Cylinder 3: 50 psi

Cylinder 4: 55 psi

Cylinder 5: 30 psi

Cylinder 6: 25 psi

I'm thinking bent con rods at this point but I'll do a leak down test before I start the autopsy. Got any other thoughts on what I should do before I crack the head off?

11 hours ago, deankxf said:

 

that's the first time I've ever seen a reason for that light to come on, and the fact it worked is equally impressive. 

 

great to see @bear351c on the ball with this one,  I've seen brake pads (discs) worn down to metal and not caused that light to come on 

 

 

Honestly Im not too sure if this caused it or it was a coincidence as the light only came! on for a bit and then went out but I can see how a spring snapping could cause the brakes to become just uneven enough for it to set off the warning but either way kudos to the xf for giving me some kind of warning!

On 2/3/2025 at 9:14 AM, bear351c said:

Usually means low fluid level, or the hydraulic spool inside the Master cyl has travelled too far in one direction hitting the switch. Check your brake system thoroughly first, may be a faulty switch.

Sure enough checked my back brakes and one of the springs broke off. Gonna fix it tommorrow and flush the fluid and see if that makes it happy.

Last night I was driving my xf when the brake fail light came on, it was coming on dimly and came and went a few times but has since disappeared. Ive heard that this light comes on when the proportioning valve moves too far one way but Im not too sure on what it actually means. The way it came on makes me think that its a dodgy switch but what else can I check to make sure everything is tip top.

9 hours ago, deankxf said:

 

keen to hear anything on this process, how do you know the ABS doesn't work?
@SPArKy_Dave would have a good clue?  

Well the abs module was unplugged and after plugging it in the abs light stays on and when hitting the brakes they behave like an old non abs car. 

Im gonna hunt down my elm 327 adapter but I read somewhere that you can use a terminal to communicate with the computer