XF EDDIE

Hey fellas I need recommendations on a full stock style exhaust for an xf ute. I was gonna patch up the old one but that plan fell apart when my tailpipe collapsed after reversing through long grass. I only need a cat back exhaust as the rest is still ok. Are there any premade systems i can get on the cheap or is this gonna have to be a custom job. Also in regards to "clearing" the cat are there any downsides to doing it. I live in qld and got a rwc so that's not a problem but will it cause any issues that cant be tuned out or can I hollow it out?

Hey just wondering does anyone have the torque spec for the intake manifold 

Good news and bad news. The bad news is that the back plastic bit of the solenoid has a huge crack going all the way through. The good news is that all the problems were caused by a burnt washer connecting the feed cable. A bit of emry tape and a new washer later shes spinning over just fine. Now to fix the other million issues with this car

Ill pull it off and clean up the solenoid contacts. the post in the solenoid is loose and shoots sparks out of it every time i start it so ill tighten that up. Id like to keep the original size starter because of that classic sound but if cant get this one working good will an au starter fit?

I did another compression reading and it was back at 150. Must be a shitty gauge or something. I swapped plugs and leads and nothing changed but I might throw a new intake gasket just to see if that works, if not I'll pull the valve cover and start tearing into the valvetrain. By the way got any tips for rebuilding the starter or is it a run it till it dies kinda thing?

2 hours ago, deankxf said:

i did it on an MSD dissy on a valiant 265 hemi and thought i was going to die.. 

it's dangerous without plastic tongs. 

 

check some others, 90 is very low, it's possibly blown headgasket between the 2.

My lowest good running crossflow was 120psi on all, and my best standard one was 180psi.  

i had a crossflow run crap at idle (5cyls) but had good compression, and this was due to a blown intake gasket on one port. (possibly from a backfire)

 

if the car's been sitting ages, the valves can get a layer of rust on them or stick open a bit in the guides etc.. i'd be tempted to just run it longer if it's not losing coolant or mixing oil/coolant
running rough isn't a rwc issue most of the time (unless it stalls or smokes) 

I feel like an idiot for not thinking of the intake gasket. That would explain it all! I tried the starting fluid trick but got no difference anything else i could try to check it? I think the compression reading was low because the engine wasn't spinning over properly (The starter almost catches fire every time i turn the key and i had to beat it to life to get the car running). I fucked with it some more and finally got the oil to stop turning black within 5 seconds of startup, seemed to help with the lifter noise. Ive been driving it a bit and getting it up to temp and there's been no difference in how it runs.

Hey just an update. I cheaped out and cleared out the old exhaust, tuned it up and generally got the car going good until this morning. I took it for a drive and once it warmed up I lost cylinder 1 (pulled all the wires until I got no reaction) Compression was at 90 however no 2 was the same and my starter is almost dead. Anyway once it cooled down no 1 came back and she ran good. Only thing I have changed is the oil (10w 40)with the original stuff being jet black and sludge in the motor. It does have some lifter noise so I'm wondering if the lifters are starving for oil. Tomorrow I'll put some engine oil flush in it and change it again and pop the valve cover when I get a new gasket. Any help on this would be appreciated as I had a roadworthy planned for this week.

22 hours ago, deankxf said:

personally i didn't rate the 2.5" exhaust on stock engines. mine went better with 2" even than the 2.25 one,(be different if jetting etc was being done on the carby on a dyno i suspect)

unless you like noise, the 2.5" makes a lot more noise, (i still reckon they sound better with a sports muffler on the stock exhaust size )
 

that's on a stock engine that only makes power to 4000rpm at best though (due to cam/valve springs) 
 

Aye. Had a look and it's a problem with the mufflers. They're rusted out anyway so I'm going to replace the exhaust with a stock size cat back system any recommendations for something?

1 hour ago, SPArKy_Dave said:

 

Nice work, easy fix!

Yeah, low vacuum would've been the giveaway.

 

Undoing the EGR gave it an exhaust... granted it'd be breathing through a straw,

but fine for idling.

If it's on LPG, blockage could be from lean/backfire's, etc. Thoughts, @deankxf?

 

@XF EDDIE if ur in Victoria, OzFalcon has club rego accreditation also.

Send me a PM, if u want to do that.

Nah mate I'm in the cancer state. I undid the exhaust from the manifold and she runs sweet. I'm thinking of just putting a whole new exhaust on it. This one is pretty rusty and I heard a 2.5" exhaust can help it significantly. Just wondering what the pipe that goes from the air cleaner to the pipe between the manifold and the cat is and whether I can rip it off if I'm not running a cat?

I got the rest of the exhaust undone and she's sweet. How "unfortunate" that the stock exhaust is blocked. I guess I'm now forced to make a 2.5" exhaust system for it. In all seriousness thank you all for the help. Without the help I got here I would still be ripping my hair out hunting this problem. All I got to do now is fix that ignition lock and she's back on the road!

@SPArKy_DaveI pulled the EGR and she fkin ran! I'll disconnect the rest of the system and let you know how it goes

3 minutes ago, deankxf said:

 

yes, but if you fit it, unplug the ECU in the kick panel  of the XF (this could also be the current issue also, they have been known to go bad even 20yrs ago)

 

I had an XF ute, fitted the XD alloy head/XE dissy (leaded XF is same but with the later cap, has a specific rotor button for it, you'd need to order if keeping it)

 

it worked for ages but at some point the ECU in the kick panel(wasn't needed) had an issue and caused ignition breakdown. i simply unplugged it and it was fine with the XD dissy again. 

 

to fit it, all you need to do is put the wires onto the coil  (2 wires) and it will work  (unplug the ECU in the left kick panel)

 

the ECU is specific to the carby models, EST sticker shoud/will be on it.  might pay to check that before you go further,  and if you can locate another to try it could be worth a shot.  (unleaded aka 1986 XF utes/vans upto 1992 should have one as they were all carby.  otherwise only sedan/wagon/fairlane etc from 1986/1987 with a carby would have them (rare now)

Don't have any way to get a cheap known good est box at the moment. I'll try what sparky Dave suggested and if none of that fixes it I'll temporarily fit the dizzy out of the f100. Any way to check the est system before swapping parts? I heard they have a self test function but I don't know for sure and it would be preferable to narrow it to the est.

2 hours ago, CHESTNUTXE said:

Fair enough just remember iron Head crossy has different dizzy shaft.you need xe xf

The f100 has an alloy head 1 xd motor. Is that compatible?

3 hours ago, CHESTNUTXE said:

I would ditch the est box and dizzy ,just try a xe style dizzy and STD coil,surely you might have one lying around 

I'd have to cannibalize my f100 and I'd like to try everything else first

36 minutes ago, SPArKy_Dave said:

 

If it won't run at all unless held at WOT, suggests either massive over-fuelling, exhaust blockage, or timing related.

A temp gravity-fed fuel supply will work fine.

 

Put a vacuum gauge on it, check ur firing order, from cyl no.1 at TDC (153624).plugs 

If a suspected exhaust blockage - undo the EGR pipe/s into the manifold, and see if anything improves?

 

Wild-card -

a lazy/failing hall effect sensor in the distributor can still give a strong spark, but with incorrect timing.

 

What's the vehicle history - did u buy it non-running?

 

Yeah bought it non running after it had sat for a while I have had a vacuum gauge on it and she barely pulls any vacuum while it's running. I the firing order from the cap to the plugs is right but I'll check the rotor position at ted. Just wondering can a hall effect out of a tfi dizzy be put in a est one?

9 minutes ago, deankxf said:

I haven't got time tonight but should be able to give you some more things to check tomorrow. 

 

but off the top of My head, you should check your fuel cut solenoid on the carby is getting power/(or vacuum if that's it's style)

 

cars this old with low kms often have stuffed hoses and there's a chance it's sucking air from the fuel line joins(one under the floor of passengers left foot area is a common issue)

try running fuel from a jerry can/bottle instead of the fuel tank first up to rule out that side of things

i may think of more overnight or @SPArKy_Dave may have a clue to look into 

 

the ignition lock caused @CHESTNUTXE some grief in the same way, i hadn't had many issues removing them in the past but they can be annoying (low kms = less worn to jiggle pick, but a locksmith could get it out easily if you removed it (sometimes easier to remove the steering column if you can't access the bolts easy.. *tamper proof you'll need to cut a slot in them or chisel them undone)

 

Hey mate thanks for the response. I know the electronic shutoff is working but it has a vacuum plunger that I haven't tested yet. I am running from a bottle as I have the fuel tank for rust repair s under the tank. I haven't checked those line joiners yet as I have been getting fuel to the carby but I'll give them a look just incase it's starving out. 

Hey fellas. Recently I got myself an 86 XF Falcon Ute with the plan to get her on the road and daily it. However I've got several snags with the biggest being the engine not running. It's an unleaded 250 xflow with est. The closest I can get it to running is when I hold it at wide open throttle and even then it barely gets to idle rpm and spits out of the carby. The motor is in good condition with 130000 KMs on it and running dead on 150 psi on all cylinders. I have rebuilt and then replaced the carby (original one was an 86 DA TD and the replacement is an 86 DA TD not sure if that matters) checked the timing with it being on °6 while cranking and has strong spark on all cylinders. I have run out of ideas and hope someone here can help me with getting it running. To make things worse the ignition locked up after I took the key out and will not move so I have had to pull the switch and use a screwdriver. I have tried wiggling it and moving the steering wheel off the lock with no luck so I'm gonna unbolt the lock for now and see if I can free it up. Any advice appreciated and thanks in advance